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Search result for: sitting car
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| 1990 Toyota MR2 N/A Manual, 223K Miles, Is It a good first car? | 11Relevance | 5 years ago | tokonomii | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I saw an MR2 sitting in my uncle's backyard. I been thinking of taking it for myself as a first car when I will be able to drive. But I think there might be something I should look out for. Any tips? - It's been sitting for quite a while in the sun (it gets very hot in the summer). I can also confirm that the battery is dead - car looks like it's from California, looked under the frame, appears to be no rust - 220K miles; is it still good for its longevity? Eventually when I get to test drive it, any tips that are crucial to remember? | |||||
| 2002 Ford Focus hard to start cold 8+ hours sitting and rough idle. | 12Relevance | 6 years ago | James Weeks | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2002 ford focus with 235k miles. It was given free a few years ago. I have changed a few things like an idle control valve, vacuum hoses before this issue. I have noticed I only get about 200 miles to the take before the needle on E. Roughly 22-24 MPG. On some of the cold starts, I noticed a metal grinding noise but it would go away once the car ran a few minutes. I can give the car some gas and it will run but wants to die. Sometimes it takes a few times to start the car for it to stay running. If I don't let the car warm up and just drive off the idle is high and sounds funny for awhile. If it warms up it will run fine. One of these times I got a code and had it read. P2195 was the code. It doesn't stay though. Comes and goes every so often. it has gone weeks with no codes. Once the car is running I have no issue starting the car right back up. I don't want to spend thousands fixing a car near the end of its life but right now I still need it. I was told the tranny was replaced at 100k when it was given to me by my friend. It was given to his daughter and his In-laws took good care of it. Issues with the daughter got me the car. Any help narrowing down the issue would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. Respectfully, James Weeks | |||||
| 2001 Pontiac Grand Am GT Coupe - 3.4L V6 - Issues with Warm Start only - No error codes | 11Relevance | 5 years ago | PhillySoHostile | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... worse and worse.I took it to a mechanic and spoke with a handful of my mechanic friends and nobody can pinpoint the issue, I'm going crazy here.This car is a really good car for a 21-year-old car, and I really do not want to get rid of it. It drives pretty good. A little bit about the issue:When the car has been sitting overnight, it starts up great! She drives pretty good and everything.When I drive the car for 5 minutes (Example: when I go to the gas station down the street) and turn the car off, come out 2 minutes later, my car starts bad.Sometimes it s ... | |||||
| Screeching noise on start up | 11Relevance | 4 years ago | askrug | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Grandson's 2020 Jetta, 40K, VIN 3VWCB7BUXLM064318. When car has been sitting overnight. start up produces horrendus screeching noise that seems to come from down under at front right corner of vehicle. Nothing untoward visable on inspection. Noise continues for perhaps three minutes and then gradually abates. car then runs and operates just fine. Took car to VW dealer for servicing, they could find nothing wrong, or so they say. No screeching during daytime driving, only happens (everytime) car is started after sitting over night. What can it be? Thanks! | |||||
| Answer to: A car sitting in a lawn for 3 years. | 11Relevance | 2 years ago | Alex G | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Assuming you're not a veteran mechanic, and the car is beyond saving and you have the space (and it's safe) it's a great opportunity to practice your skills and learn on this car. | |||||
| Answer to: Started a car that was sitting a year or 2 | 11Relevance | 5 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The catalytic converters aren't critical to the car's safety, California won't like you driving with one missing, but not having it can cause long term issues (running too lean can cause overheating, for example). Depending on where the fuel filter is in that car, you may be able to drain it out from the filter. Odds are it's in the fuel tank with the pump and the tank needs dropped. | |||||
| 2006 Honda Accord Hard to Start Again After Driving It | 11Relevance | 3 years ago | SadAccordOwner | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello everyone, First of all sorry for wording, english is not my first language. As you can tell from my username I've been having some problems with my 2006 Honda Accord. Vehicle Stats: 2006/Honda/Accord Trim: VP 169k miles Automatic (4 cylinders 2.4L engine) No codes (at the moment) TLDR (Too Long Didn't Read): First thing in the morning when you try to start the car it struggles in the sense that you have to crank it longer than usual (3 - 4 seconds) but once it starts the car runs fine, no problem, no check engine light, nothing. But there is a problem, when you use the car for a bit and you shut the car off and let it cool (say 10 - 15 minutes) and then you try to turn it on again, it becomes EXTREMELY hard to turn on. The car cranks for long time (I don't crank it for more than 10 seconds at a time) all while shaking in rythmic bursts (around 1 burst every half a second), it also takes me multiple tries to turn the car on (sometimes more than 8 tries of 7 - 10 second cranks each). It's like you can only use the car to go to work (let it rest for hours while working) and come back home, and even then since I'm using the car each day consecutively during the workweek it makes it so that starting the car at the end of the workweek is harder than at the start of the workweek (harder in the sense that it takes many more tries and longer cranks). Having said that I will give a brief service history of the car (while in my care since this was a used car I bought from a third party): Service History (All done by mechanics since I don't service my own car): Coolant sensor replaced, Coolant drained - This was because the car was throwing a coolant sensor error. Thermostat replaced - I don't remember if the car threw a thermostat error but it was faulty and the car was overheating so it got replaced. All 4 spark plugs replaced with iridium spark plugs - This was because they were trying to rule out spark plug problems, also they were old and had to be changed. Oil and filter changed - Routine maintenance Couple of things I've noticed that might help Now, I don't know much about cars but I noticed that where the IAT sensor is supposed to go (its like a little hole where you put the sensor in and then you plug the connector to the car harness connector thingy) it has black tape over it blocking the hole where the IAT is supposed to go in. Now, I am not 100% if this 2006 Honda Accord VP 2.4L car is supposed to have an IAT sensor or if it's integrated into the MAF sensor, anyone knows? The reason why I mention this is because at ONE POINT the car threw an IAT sensor code (P0113) but after the code got erased with a obd2 tool it never came back on. Also, a mechanic tried searching for the harness connection for the IAT sensor and couldn't find it, despite the car having the little hole that holds the IAT sensor. That same mechanic also checked the readings of the IAT sensor with a scanning tool and it was throwing 104F degrees, so apparently it was working, and we concluded that it was probably integrated into the MAF sensor. I noticed the car SOMETIMES is easier to start if I crank it while pushing and holding the gas pedal completely down. Hard emphasis on SOMETIMES because lately i've had to crank the car 7 - 8 times for like 7 - 10 seconds WHILE HOLDING THE GAS PEDAL for it to start. I noticed that when I don't turn the key completely when cranking the car, instead of cranking there's a loud whine that can be heard from somewhere (i don't know if it's from the starter itself or the front of the car). I'm not sure if this will help but there's that. The fuel pump does prime when you turn the key to the ON position (or at least it makes a humming noise for like 2 seconds, I think this is what priming means). Although I've noticed that sometimes the fuel pump doesn't prime, I've noticed it when I was going to go home from work and I got in the car and didn't hear the fuel pump priming. Turned the key to ON like 6 - 8 times and still no priming sound, no humming. So I tried to crank the car and as usual it took me like 8 tries, BUT i noticed that after the 2nd or 3rd attempt of trying to turn on the car the fuel pump started priming again when the key was on the ON position! I don't know if cars fuel pumps should ALWAYS prime but there's that. Last but not least, a mechanic checked my car and said many things like the engine and transmission are good, that the fuel injectors were not causing the problem, that the spark plugs where not the problem, etc... Now here's the thing, he did mention sometime about checking some sort of "hose" from the fuel pump or something and that the fuel pump was not the problem, but I don't really think that's how you check for fuel pump problems, i think you need to check the pressure with a gadget thing and I don't think he did that. Sorry for the extremely long post, I am beyond stressed with the car and at one point even considered selling it since I have so little time for it to get checked each week, and it seems like every time it gets checked by different mechanics it is not done properly and I'm wasting money and time. Also, although I didn't mention it I've done other repairs like the car's AC and I'm really afraid to keep spending money on a car that will eventually die and I've wasted the money spent. Thank you in advance everyone, SadAccordOwner... | |||||
| Answer to: What kind of maintenance for a sitting car? | 11Relevance | 6 years ago | Figmund Sreud | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My car is 27 years old. ___________________ Well, … you must like your car! Yes? I suggest, than, … just perhaps, drive it a bit more? Enjoy it more often? Driving it should be a part of a regular maintenance, … just like fluids changes, lubrication, small adjustments ‘n such. F.S. | |||||
| What kind of maintenance for a sitting car? | 11Relevance | 6 years ago | bob81 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My car is 27 years old. I drive a couple of hundreds of miles every year. Otherwise it sits in a dry garage. The car drives and shifts perfectly. Should I change the oil every year too? What kind of other maintenance should I also do? | |||||
| Car has been sitting for 10 years | 11Relevance | 6 years ago | Mackgo | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty, After I got my current car, my old Saturn SL was impossible to sell (manual transmission, no air conditioning). Hoping to some day give it to my daughters, I “stored” it for later use. Well, one decade later I really should do something with it! I did nothing to prepare it for a decade of idleness, so I’m not sure how to restart it without causing more damage. What procedure should I follow to try to start it, or should it just be sold to a junk yard? (The car was running perfectly, and had about 100,000 km.) thanks! | |||||
| Electrical no start, no power to window, radio, AC | 11Relevance | 2 years ago | Punky69 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 03 Toyota 4 runner limited ( I’ve learned limited has different locations for parts etc) (mechanic is at a loss) vehicle has been sitting for six months original problem battery drain. started vehicle one day by surprise. Rolled down all the windows to air out. car was running. Let it run for an hr. No road testing. Shut off and in 1-2x. 3x nothing and windows now stuck open. That was two months ago have not been able to get the car to turn over since then. Found out blower motor resistor caused parasitic drain. So no problem there, but still keep battery d ... | |||||
| 2011 ES350 front end issues | 11Relevance | 3 years ago | Tjmac500 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... My old mechanic for the last 17 years was a carbon copy of yourself.. he sold the biz and retired.. therefore, I am left with a new challenge .. the car was riding extremely rough .. almost like a straight front axle. felt every bump, etc.. steering was straight .. alignment was perfect .. no abnormal wear on the tires. .. diagnosis: it seems that my lower control arm(s) bushings needed replacing and what I thought was a blown-out CV joint (looked like grease on the boot) was actually the power steering pump leaking on the CV.( the PS fluid was full). ... | |||||
| Answer to: Car smokes intermittently | 11Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| V8 or flathead six? (I think most Champions had the flathead six but the V8 was offered.) It might be that rings are stuck due to the car sitting. That happened to me ages ago when I rescued a complete-looking 1964 Ambassador that had been sitting at a junkyard I frequented at the time. The thing smoked like crazy until the engine was run for a while and the rings freed up. What do the spark plugs look like? | |||||
| RE: Asking for opinion for a first car | 11Relevance | 5 years ago | G.T. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You are welcome! There are some tips for sitting cars | |||||
| RE: Car Auction | 11Relevance | 6 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| No. Because then I want to check it over and see what the fluids look like, how it runs, tire flat spots. A lot of times those kinds of cars have been sitting before the owner passed, and sitting more while their estate gets worked out. Plus I would never knowingly buy a car for myself that belonged to a dead person. Just have a thing about that. | |||||