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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| 2005 Honda Fit/Jazz 1.4 Manual gearbox New front wheel bearing, then no drive! | 24Relevance | 4 years ago | Hector Zauss | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The car went in for a new front wheel bearing but it seems the clowns doing the job have done it some serious harm. I’m told the car was driven out of the workshop but then all drive to the wheels was lost. It drove perfectly fine apart from the worn bearing before they touched it. When we went to collect the car. I started the engine, put it in gear, released the clutch and it drove! About a mile down the road, there was a red traffic light. When it came to pulling away, as the clutch was released there was a distinct clunk similar to when a gearbox jumps out of gear, and that was it – no drive. With the engine running, all gears could be selected without depressing the clutch. We towed it home from there. The next day I started the engine put it in gear and it drove up the drive and reversed back again, but dare not take it out on the road and be stranded. What is going on? | |||||
| 2007 hyundai sonata limited 3.3L v6 rear wheel bearing replacement | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Anthony.germano | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi I have to replace my rear wheel bearing. I was wondering if I have to take speed sensor out or I can take the bearing out without removing speed sensor? | |||||
| RE: How do I fix Lexus wheel bearing sound | 24Relevance | 6 years ago | Wylie Scott 35 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thanks for the info to change the bearing but i am having difficulty finding which side the failing bearing is on. It sounds like the front but when I jack up the car and test for tire wiggle, it does not move as would be expected on either side. Can you determine the failing side from the sound when you turn the steering wheel? Thanks for your help. | |||||
| Clutch noise | 23Relevance | 2 years ago | CreepingD | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2016 scion TC standard transmission When clutch is out engine idling in neutral, I hear a bearing which I’m assuming is the dastardly input shaft bearing that’s an issue on the EB60 transmissions. Should I spend the 5k to rebuild it and hope the updated bearing design doesn’t fail? And can I still drive it on my 50 mile each way commute? It has 76k miles on it. When I do the work I’ll change out the clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and possibly the master and slave clutch cylinders. Is that overkill and am I missing anything? Thanks for the help I just got this thing a week ago from a dealer. Sigh | |||||
| Answer to: 2010 scion humming sound under the hood | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | scottykilmer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Generally knows like that are bearings could be any bearing engine bearing transmission bearing water pump bearing alternator bearing so do my video finding the source of car noises Scotty | |||||
| Answer to: Hey scotty, i had a mechanic do my wheel bearing on my 05 civic lx, now when my car hits 20-40 mph i hear a humming from the side with the new wheel bearing, its worse in the rain | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | Suzuki | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| They screwed up somehow. It should be smooth as a little lamb. | |||||
| Answer to: Hey scotty, i had a mechanic do my wheel bearing on my 05 civic lx, now when my car hits 20-40 mph i hear a humming from the side with the new wheel bearing, its worse in the rain | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | yaser | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Take it back to the mechanic and have them fix it. | |||||
| Answer to: 2017 Jeep Renegade 50,000 mile clutch problem | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If you're going to replace it, replace everything - clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Check the clutch slave cylinder for smooth operation. Get the flywheel resurfaced if it looks burnt or cracked. Tighten down the pressure in stages to the proper torque. Lubricate the clutch arm pivot joint liberally. If you get the flywheel resurfaced, make sure to use Blue Locktite and torque to specifications. Most clutch kits come with a centering tool to line up the splines of the trans input shaft and clutch disc. If you can't get the old pilot bearing out, pack it full of grease, get a metal rod a little smaller than the input diameter, cover the bearing with a rag and smack the rod with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will pop the bearing right out. | |||||
| Timing belts and kits | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | Crell4 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, Gates makes a blue extended wear a timing belt that is good for at least 100K miles, but they don't make it for every vehicle. I have one in my beloved 99 Camry. More importantly, be careful not to install a Chinese made idler bearing or tensioner bearing. When you buy the Gates Timing belt kits, they now slip in at least one Chinese made bearing. I bought all my kit parts individually from rock auto and Amazon. I bought both KOYO Japanese made idler and tensioner bearings, which is what came on your RAV4 stock. Japanese NSK bearings are good too. KOYOs are the best bearings you can buy, even better than USA made Timkin. I'm not 100% sure of this, but I believe a Chinese bearing will always say CHINA on it and have bluish green dirt seals, whereas a KOYO bearing has a clay red dirt seal like these; Make sure all other components like the water pump and oil pump are AISIN which is Toyota-owned. | |||||
| Small Pop and Clunks in The Steering Wheel | 23Relevance | 1 year ago | mtymk076 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I have a 2011 Toyota Sienna AWD (3.5L) with 170,000 km on it. The front driver side strut bearing was binding, so I replaced the front shocks and struts and sway bar links this summer. However, whenever I accelerate and turn from a stop (doesn't happen when going straight), I often feel a little pop or cluck in the steering wheel (both left and right turns). No noise, just feedback through the steering wheel. I re-checked all the bolts from the suspension job I did and everything was torqued right. I didn't feel the issues before I did the job, but I think it's just because the bad strut bearing masked it or I assumed it was all coming from the strut bearing. Since it's very subtle (my wife doesn't even notice it), should I wait to see if the problem gets worse before sinking any time and money into it? Outer Tie rods seem OK, only thing I can think of are the CV joint(s)? Mike | |||||
| Answer to: AWD vs FWD | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | Sweet16Mustang | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| TL:DR at the bottom! I lived in the Midwest (Indiana/Illinios state line) for about 45 years, so I believe this qualifies me to give you the answer you're looking for. But the answer will be long & detailed, so let's get started! Out there, it's gets BRUTALLY cold in Winter. And I mean frostbite within minutes, cold! Not a ton of snow as you'd think, but enough to make travel difficult. I've owned rear wheel drive, front wheel drive, all wheel drive, part time & full time 4 wheel drive trucks & cars. Each vehicle has an advantage as well as distinct disadvantages for your area. Let's dive into those so you know which one applies to you... All wheel drive cars are fantastic in light snow/slick/muddy conditions. They send just the right amount of power/brakes to each wheel for grip or non-slip. BUT..the big disadvantage is if you lose a tire because of a blowout, you MUST buy 4 new tires because one different tire will cause undue stress on the drivetrain. But if it's COLD where you are, you absolutely need Winter tires because they remain flexible enough to throw snow from the tread pattern to give good bite on the road. All-seasons are okay, but Summer tires....fuhgettaboudit! You're not going anywhere, no matter how many wheels drive! Front wheel drive with Winter tires, light to moderate snow conditions got me around just fine. I could put just about any tire on those cars & get around easily. You have the weight of the engine on the drive tires giving good traction. There's no worry of undue drivetrain stress with different named tires on the front from the back, as an all wheel drive car has. But if you live in LOTS of snow, then a full time or part time 4WD is what you want to get you around. Big tires with deep lugs in the tread will bite well into the snow. But then again, the full time 4WD is NOT to be driven on dry roads because all 4 wheels turn at the same RPM & you'd bounce around inside the cab like a kid in a bouncy house, when turning corners! 0_0 TL:DR...I believe a front wheel drive with good Winter tires will get you around just fine (based on what you describe above). Just giving you the advantages & disadvantages of all, for your situation. | |||||
| Answer to: I have a 2015 dodge challenger, recently replaced the drivers side wheel bearing hub. The car pulls a bit to the left. Do I need a wheel alignment? | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yes. And the work needs to be checked to see if the wheel bearing was correctly pre-loaded to factory spec. | |||||
| How do I fix Lexus wheel bearing sound | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | Wylie Scott 35 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, Love your channel! I have a Lexus ES300 (2003) and have a wheel bearing sound that gets louder when I turn the steering right. I rely on your expertise since many searches on the net will give opposite answers. Thank you for all your great work, you are a true credit to the human race! | |||||
| Answer to: Bent wheel and wheel bearings | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The mystery is why did this car need a new left front wheel bearing at 84,000 miles and another wheel bearing on the right rear at 120,000 miles. It's not that unusual I was told the other day by a tire dealer who was installing 4 new tires on this car that one of the wheels was bent and then he proceeded to try and sell me a set of new wheels. it's not like tire dealers have x-ray vision or something. Ask him to show you the bend. | |||||
| Answer to: damaged wheel bearing | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Cars that you could change the wheel bearings on without replacing the whole hub are long gone. You can probably get wheel bearings only, but it makes more sense to just do the whole hub. No special tools are needed if you change out the hub. It must be torqued properly. My 1979 Pontiac Catalina's front end is a rotor and hub all in one, you can change the wheel bearings without a hydraulic press, but the the hub/rotor combination had to be very specific on its torque. The rotor/hub combo must be torqued to 15 ft-lbs. I've never changed the rear axle's wheel bearings, those are drums, to you may need a press. | |||||