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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Toyota Camry V/S Honda Accord | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | FrCanada | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi everyone, I need some advice on what to look out or what will be the better choice. I am looking into buying either a 2003 Honda Accord CP, 2.4L, Auto with 177,000KMS and has a clean carfax( or at the same dealership, a 2003 Toyota Camry 2.4L Auto with 263,000KMS( Both seems to have been taken care of relatively well. I have watched Scotty's videos about both cars and I'm still undecided whether the Honda will be the better car, while knowing the Toyota might outlast me without a hiccup. I will look for oil burning for both and transmission issues in th ... | |||||
| I have a 1993 F150 with the 5.0 (302) main bearing | 22Relevance | 2 years ago | Rootertech | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 93 f150 with the 5.0 (302) in it. I’ve had issue in the past like rough idle and the truck shutting off while driving, it not wanting to start, front fuel tank back flowing into back tank, etc. Now I have an issue. The truck still runs and drives but after it runs I was hearing a grinding noise with white smoke coming out from under it. I got under the truck while it was running and figured out the noise was coming from the fly wheel. There’s a cover plate that bolts over the fly wheel that was making contact to the fly wheel causing it to smoke and make noise. So I thought I’d try to bend the cover out with a screwdriver and when I put the screwdriver in there and tried to pry the cover out the whole fly wheel slid back about 2 inches. That can’t be good. I popped the hood and discovered I can grab the lower crank pulley and slide it by hand back and forth about 2 inches back and then back to where it should be. I recently replaced the serpentine belt and the throttle position sensor. Could either of those repairs cause these issues? I haven’t ran the truck since noticing out of fear of ruining the motor completely. If those repairs had nothing to do with it what could be the cause? Is it the main bearing? If so should I replace the motor? Thanks for any responses! | |||||
| Answer to: 2004 Chevy Venture front end shaking | 22Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Welcome, new member. The Check Engine Light and a fuse blowing have no bearing on your issue. Something in your suspension is worn out after 21 years. If the actual wheel was hot, and you know the brakes are good, the wheel bearing on that wheel of the car is beyond shot. You can test for this by simply jacking up the offending wheel and spinning it. It should spin freely. Also, jack up the car and put your hands at 9 and 3 o'clock. Wiggle the tire. If it moves, your tie rods are shot. Next, put your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle it. If it moves, your control arms are shot. | |||||
| Toyota Dealership trying to rip us off? | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | mejia4791 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Good morning Scotty. I am a huge fan and I have been watching you since 2016 and have done all car repairs on my own as I have learned from you. My girlfriend just recently bought a used 2017 rav4 xle front wheel drive and a few months afterward I noticed a whining noise. I made the mistake of replacing 3 wheel bearings thinking that was the noise even though the wheels had no play and afterwards I discovered that her rear wheel tires had uneven treads which I now think is the issue. After I had replaced the right front wheel bearing and assembled everything back together, the rav4's abs and sensor warning lights came on. I did not have time to run my scan tool or fix her car since we both work weekdays so she opted against my warning to take it to Toyota. She went in just to get the sensor fixed and we discovered the CV boot had come off. What annoys me is that the dealership is now telling her to replace the wheel bearing again (even though I just literally replaced it) and they are telling her she needs to replace a bushing because its "worn" and stating that her water pump is leaking, even though the car does not have any coolant leaking whatsoever! My girlfriend called and asked for my advice and I told her to have them replace the sensor and fix the CV boot, nothing else! Was I correct in this advice and was Toyota trying to pull a fast one? See the inspection video below! Michael Mejia | |||||
| RE: Wheel Bearing Adjustment/ Need New Bearing Already? | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Are you supposed to hear the bearings when you spin the wheel by hand? I could slightly hear the bearings rolling in the races, if that indicates anything. I may tear it apart tomorrow and do a more accurate job now that I have the manual. | |||||
| 2010 Civic LX - AC Clutch Bearing Replacement | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | Pro_Tooler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The AC is noisy when disengaged with a typical bearing-like grinding sound. When the AC is on, the noise disappears. The local mechanic could not diagnose and recommended I change the whole AC compressor and clutch. The bearing does not appear seized. Source of noise is from the clutch-pulley assembly and not AC Compressor. Can I change just the pulley bearing? | |||||
| Answer to: Can I buy just the throw out bearing for my 1996 Ford Ranger? | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If you are going to all the work of replacing the throw out bearing, it's really a good idea to do the complete clutch package which includes the clutch disc, pressure plate throw out bearing and pilot bearing. You'll already have the trans removed anyway. | |||||
| Answer to: Roaring sound after replacing wheel bearing | 21Relevance | 7 months ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Jack up the car and turn the wheel by hand to see if there is any roughness or any obvious issue like the backing plate contacting the rotor or an issue with the CV joint. Did you install an OEM wheel bearing, or at least a leading brand? | |||||
| Toyota Yaris IA (Mexican-built Mazda 2) road noise | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | GeeWhizBang | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have strange road noise that is dependent on speed. It makes no noise whatsoever below 50mph. It does seem to require the car warm up for a while. If I go particularly fast on the freeway, above the speed limit at 75mph, the noise happens almost immediately. This isn't as crazy as it sounds, everybody on the freeway is driving that fast, if I didn't do this I'd have people angrily on my tail. It sounds sort of like a stick dragging on the ground, but there is an occasional mechanical clunk. It has nothing to do with engine speed, shifting gears does not change the sound. I think it's coming from the left front wheel, which did hit a curb really hard when I was driving without my glasses, about 3 months ago. It bent the wheel, it was a really hard bump, the wheel is now the spare, no harm really done there. It seems to have more to do with the brakes or the perhaps the wheel bearing, steering right or left doesn't affect the sound. It seems unlikely that it's the half shafts because its more of a grinding sound than a rattle. Once started, the noise can continue all of the way down to 50mph, but after it cools it stops and then it takes a few moments of 60+ mph to get it started again. This is work I can do myself, but what do I try first? The wheel bearing, the brakes, or the half shaft? It probably ISN'T the transmission, but I have the six speed manual. There is only 30K miles on this, it is probably related to hitting the curb. | |||||
| Bent Konig wheel, 2005 Acura TL | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Hero1234 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I have 18x8 Konig 10 spoke wheels on my 2005 Acura TL with 100,000 miles. While I was going through a construction zone a couple weeks ago, without any signs or warnings lights that I could see I ended up going over a curb that separates the concrete from the black top asphalt at 50 mph. After I hit the curb I pulled over to see if there was any damage, this was at night so I didn't notice the bent wheel, I took it to a mechanic the following day and had him look over the suspension to make sure there wasn't any damage, my suspension ended up being fine how ever he pointed out the bent driver's side wheel, he told me as long as it was holding air and if there wasn't any vibrations or shaking in the steering wheel at high speeds it should be alright to drive on until I could get a replacement wheel. I ended up ordering a new wheel online to a local tire shop near by, but due to COVID-19 Konigs are out of stock everywhere. My question is I'm supposed to go on vacation a week from today but I'm afraid my wheel won't arrive by then, it's a 500 mile round trip. I was thinking as long as I took it slow and checked on the wheel every 50 miles or so it would most likely be alright. But I'm not sure what are your thoughts? Should I take the car on vacation or should I not go? | |||||
| Wheel/steering/suspension issue | 22Relevance | 6 years ago | Uziel10 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi everyone, I’ll try my best to keep this short to save you some time. I have a 2012 Corolla and I hydroplaned into a curb pretty hard on the front left wheel. Barely got home but it was pulling hard to the left. Did some research and I replaced everything that looked bad. I replaced the lower control arm, inner and outer tie rod, and axle. Everything seems fine, took it to pep boys to get an alignment (probably a bad idea to choose them). When I drove slow it felt fine, but when I got to 60 it would vibrate a lot, to the steering wheel and floorboard. Freaked me out, i checked my wheels and noticed my tire threads were having outer wear and just thought okay, I just need new tires and balance them. I did that and it helped a lot. I can pass 60 without any vibration but once I’m at 75 it comes back. Not only that, if I slightly turn the steering wheel like 25 degrees to the right and at slow speeds, I can feel the vibration pulsate through once again the steering wheel and the floor board. I’m stuck now, I raised the car and checked the same wheel for play, didn’t find anything. I did notice more threads were showing on the other wheel for the cv axle. But the axle is from car quest so idk if it’s their design. Could it be that I didn’t tighten the axle nut enough? I’m just hoping someone can lead me into the right direction with this, like what to look for and tests can I do, maybe someone has had this before, any help and input is very much appreciated. PS: if it helps, when I turn the steering wheel to the very left, there’s a certain point midway through the turn where something kinda pulls it towards the left and then afterwards it’s very easy to keep going to the left. But the right, it’s constant, feels normal. Once again, thank you so much for reading! | |||||
| Wheel bearing | 21Relevance | 1 year ago | Gabriel1999 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2011 Toyota Camry and my front right wheel bearing is making a humming noise and thinking about changing it but it’s A press on job. I was thinking about doing it myself or is it better Do you have a mechanic do the job? Also are the wheel bearings and hubs from AutoZone any good or should I stick to OEM? | |||||
| Wheel bearing replacement. | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | Wayneski | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2008 Buick LaCrosse cxl 3.8.A rolling mechanic took a grinder to my knuckle when he replaced my wheel hub.Is that necessary and could it throw off the torque specifications for tightening the wheel bearing when I put a new one on? | |||||
| Answer to: How to press in a wheel bearing? | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| For entire hubs (please verify your vehicle details) - | |||||
| Answer to: Should I replace just the wheel bearing or the whole hub assembly? | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| For wheel bearings I would stick with leading brands such as Timkin and SKF, or buy OEM. You don't want poorly-made Chinese bearings that will fail in short order and put you in a situation like this: (The above was caused by loose lug nuts but that is what will happen if a wheel bearing fails catastrophically.) | |||||