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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Whirring and clanking noise coming from rear | 27Relevance | 2 years ago | pdiddler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty! I have a 2008 Lexus RX 350 FWD with 139,000 miles. I'm hearing a clanking sound every time the rear tires rotate (I believe it's the driver's side), and as I drive a whirring sound gets louder. I jacked up each wheel, spun them, and did the 12-6 and 9-3 movement check on them but there was no movement. Since I've seen even in one of your videos a wheel bearing can still be bad even though the wheel passes the 12-6 and 9-3 tests, I bought a rear wheel bearing and hub (the brand I bought is Koyo; OEM was just way too expensive). I'm still hesitant though to install the hub since now I'm not totally convinced that's the problem. What else could it be, or should I just install the new wheel bearing on the side I think the noise is mostly coming from? Thanks Scotty and all. | |||||
| Bearing like noise come and goes | 27Relevance | 1 year ago | Aadil Eyasim | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi everyone, I recently bought a manual Ford Fiesta S 2011, and when I got it, it had a bad bearing noise. I took it to the mechanic and was told that the front bearings needed to be changed. I also told the mechanic that, when I brake, the steering wheel would vibrate. So they changed the front bearings, brake pads and disk. Ever since, the car has kept on getting worse. After the bearings, brake pads and disk change, the car would vibrate violently, and the mechanic who did the change could not figure it out. I took the car to a different mechanic, and they found that the first mechanic had broken the inner CV joint tripod when they were changing the bearings. Now the car has stopped the violent shaking, but there is a bearing noise that comes and goes. I also changed all the tyres, and the noise is still here. The new mechanic can not figure it out. Even I am a bit confused, as a wheel bearing noise should always be there. The new mechanic tried to put the car in neutral and switch off the car, but the noise was still there, which eliminated the problem with the transmission. Does anyone know what the problem could be here, please? | |||||
| 2013 Sentra - ABS Sensor - Code | 27Relevance | 2 years ago | RobertPsarudakis | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello All, Scotty thanks for all you do! I did not have any ABS/Track Control issues until I replace my passenger side wheel bearing on my 2013 Nissan Sentra SR (141k). Since I removed the bad wheel bearing I had to remove the working ABS sensor to install new bearing. The old sensor had to be drilled out due to rust. (was working fine beforehand). I purchased a cheap $15 sensor off of Amazon along with with the new quality wheel bearing from TRQ. Now I'm getting an ABS/Track light that comes on and goes off intermittently. I scanned and received a code of C1107. When I take it for ride, I'm getting data on that sensor that is comparable to the other three. I'm wondering if Nissan is not happy with the aftermarket cheaper sensors. Thanks! | |||||
| RE: Burnt carpet smell from my 2016 BMW X6 | 27Relevance | 4 years ago | Kevinle970 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Another update: I went to another mechanic to get a second option. Not mentioning anything about the findings of the first mechanic, I told him on the phone that I was hearing noise on the freeway when doing 60 mph and the burnt carpet smell when putting the car in park after driving for sometime. He suggested that I could have wheel bearing issue and valve cover leak. When I bought the car to him for diagnosis, he didnt charge a fee mentioning he doesnt charge for road noise, which was a good thing for me. After about an 1 hour, he called and notified me that I didn’t have a valve cover leaks but my left wheel bearing was totally worned out. The cost to for part and labor for the wheel bearing was $530, and I told him to go ahead with the service. After an hour, the car was done and I went up to pick it up. After driving for awhile, the ABS lights started flaring up, and functions like collision/brake interventions were inactive. In addition, although the car ran smooth, I heard alot of squeaking and grinding noise. I them him about it, and he sent a mechanic out to pick up the car from me since I was at work. After putting back my old bearings, he returned the car and told me to come back in a couple of days since he order another part from a different BMW dealership. He says for some reason, the first bearing he ordered from a nearby bmw dealer may have been defected. I give him points for being honest about the valve cover leak, and for sending a mechanic out to pick up the car from me. However, since installation didnt go so well, I wonder if I should return? I am seriously considering just going to BMw dealership to get the repair. These German cars can be a hassle for indy mechanics to work on and I understand this. I feel like going to indy mechanic is a hit or miss, yes it can be cheaper, but you run the risk of having difficulties like I didnt today. Also I love my car and so far its still in good condition. I take good care of it, and will continue to do so. What do you guys think? | |||||
| Answer to: 1998 Mercedes e320 V6 wagon thoughts? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You can get a glimpse below of some things that can eventually fail: | |||||
| 1998 Mercedes e320 V6 wagon thoughts? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | PROTOx104 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I just got my uncle's 1998 Mercedes e320 wagon, nice V6 engine only about 75k miles on it. It's well maintained, nothing wrong with it, but I was wondering your thoughts on these older Mercedes in general. From what I can tell it's pretty well made and these older ones were still made in Germany I believe. Can't say the same about BMW's...... use to have a 96 328I and took care of a lot but still ended up being a pain in the rear. Don't think it'll be the same with this Mercedes but I was curious about your thoughts to try to make this baby last as long as possible! Thanks! | |||||
| E320 spare key | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | M0L0TOV | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| So I have a 2005 e320 CDI with 239k. I only have one key for the vehicle. Local locksmiths are unable to program keys due to their proprietary software. I bought two used genuine Mercedes keys to see if I could get them programmed. My local Mercedes dealer says no and it can only be programmed once, soni have to buy a new key. I call shenanigans, what say you? Thanks in advance! M0L0TOV | |||||
| 2006 E320 CDI as a daily driver? | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | GrizzzlyGoat | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey scotty, hope you're having a good new year. My Dad and I own and work on our own older Mercedes, and my moms 2012 Ford Fusion 2.5L has been great for us, but the transmission is starting to concern me a little. even at 122 thousand miles. I have been thinking about maybe gifting my mom a 2006 e320 CDI (diesel) in the case the tranny on the Fusion gives out. My mom used to drive the Merc my dad does, but since my dads Windstar died after 325k miles and plus the fact that she drives a 40 mile commute, the gas mileage made much more sense for her. Are there any other Mercedes in the Modern era that can get 40 miles per gallon without worrisome hybrid technology? My only concern with this specific car is the asking price is 2 to 3 times higher than gasoline versions. Diesel is about the same price as premium down here in Southern California. Thank you as always. | |||||
| 2009 Audi A4 Quattro - bad front hub or bearing? | 26Relevance | 2 years ago | Missin44 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My son just purchased a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro with 2.0L engine, 169k, automatic. The car is excellent, except it get ABS, parking brake, EPC panel lights most of the time but not always. I do hear a whine from what sounds like maybe driver front, much like an off road tire sounds. The seller said a local shop diagnosted as a bad front hub, they're certain they didn't say bearing. The seller also couldn't remember which side was bad. My question: I'm reasonably clear on how to diagnose a bad bearing. But how do I diagnos which hub, assuming it's a hub and not a bearing? Also, on a Quattro do both front wheels need to be off the ground for a bearing diagnostics? Thanks | |||||
| RE: Wheel Bearing Adjustment/ Need New Bearing Already? | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I don't recall ever hearing bearing noise when spinning the wheel by hand, at least not over the little bit of noise made by the slight drag from the brake pads or shoes. | |||||
| Answer to: Wheel Bearing Adjustment/ Need New Bearing Already? | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If adjusted properly per the shop manual that bearing is likely worn or defective, possibly not greased properly. The way I learned to adjust front wheel tapered roller bearings back in the day was to tighten the retaining nut to seat the bearings, then back off the nut and tighten with fingers so that there is just the smallest amount of play, then put in the cotter pin as close to that position as possible. (Shop manual for my '71 Ambassador says to tighten the nut to 20 foot pounds, back off on it, then tighten to 12 inch pounds which probably does about the same thing.) | |||||
| Mazda Wacky Speedometer | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | SpecialAgent8 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey scotty, I have a 2012 mazda 6 2.5l dohc automatic. It was making noise, my friend who works on cars listened to it and said it was a wheel bearing, he was right. I went ahead and replaced all 4 of them myself, press in and bolt in, I did them one at time over the course of 2 days and test drove after each one. After doing the driver front one and test driving, I got the abs and traction control lights everything else was fine. I did the driver side rear 2nd, then passenger rear 3rd. The passenger rear was the noise culprit. Finally I did the passenger front one, after hard work and a lot of success and satisfaction I disconnected the battery and reconnected, hoping to reset the abs and give the car a chance to recognize all new bearings. After I reconnected the battery, the car wouldn't start, so I jumped it and finally got it started. I went for my final test drive and the original warning lights were on but the car got really sluggish as I was test driving, the AT started to shift hard and threw two codes: po500 for the speed sensor and po61b for internal control module torque calculation performance (once I get to about 20-25mph is when it would get sluggish and drag). Then the car idled weird and would stall out when I stopped sometimes. If I turn the car off and back on it would drive normal right up to the mph I mentioned and start all over again. I eventually removed the abs fuses and did an idle relearn, now it drives perfectly fine except the speedometer is all wacky. Yes I did install the magnetic ring on the bearing correctly toward the abs sensor on the knuckle. I need help figuring out what went wrong, bearing installation problem, bad bearing or something got fried when i messed with the battery, everything was fine up till the last bearing and the battery disconnect??? Also the alternator tested low at 8-9 volts. I do have a mechanic that fixed my old moneypit stratus years ago (insert laughing horse) that I trust. What did I do wrong and can I fix it or should I take it to him?? | |||||
| Answer to: Is it necessary to change wheel bearing | 26Relevance | 3 years ago | sal25 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I have a 2011 Honda Accord 2.4L, with 73,000 KM on the odo. Since around a year I've been hearing slight humming noises when the speed of car goes above 40/50 Kmh, and the noise increases slightly as speed increases. Acording to most sources it seems to be the wheel bearing. I have shown some mechanics however they say that its fine now and can be changed later on when the sound becomes very loud and some other symptoms occur. So, I want to know whether I can ignore it for now or not as I am not facing any other issues related to the wheel bearing. | |||||
| Is it necessary to change wheel bearing | 26Relevance | 3 years ago | sal25 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I have a 2011 Honda Accord 2.4L, with 73,000 KM on the odo. Since around a year I've been hearing slight humming noises when the speed of car goes above 40/50 Kmh, and the noise increases slightly as speed increases. Acording to most sources it seems to be the wheel bearing. I have shown some mechanics however they say that its fine now and can be changed later on when the sound becomes very loud and some other symptoms occur. So, I want to know whether I can ignore it for now or not as I am not facing any other issues related to the wheel bearing. | |||||
| Answer to: Very Strange Wheel Bearing Question | 26Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Your right front wheel bearing is bad. | |||||