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A/C Blows hot. Had ...
 
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A/C Blows hot. Had pressure. Watched FAQ & Scotty Youtube vids and eliminated possibilities. 2012 Toyota Rav 41k automatic 2.5L I4

  

1
Topic starter

Hey Scotty/Community, 

 

2012 Rav 4 2.5L 41k mi automatic, regular maintance

My A/C started blowing Luke warm last night when I went to put on the ac. I checked the fuses under the steering wheel, and also the inside of the engine conpartment and they were not blown (I think one was supposed to be a 7.5A in he user manual, but had a 10A in there). I turned it on and off a few times to make sure it wasn't user error or so. 

I checked it this afternoon with a set of ac gauges, and it had pressure still. The ambient temp outside was around 75-80 degrees. The low pressure gauge read about 75 degrees. The high pressure gauge read about 100 degrees. I closed the valves on the gauges to make sure the gauges weren't faulty and they went down to 0 psi, then back to the readings when opened. I got the same psi with the car running and off. 

I just put in a new cabin air filter last week, in the right direction if the air flow. The condenser is mostly clean (going to hose it off this weekend). The cooling fans should be ok, no overheating of the car and the radiator fluid is topped off. the air inlet vent under the front window is clear. My belt is old but seems to have ok tension but I have a new belt and tensioner on the way. I do not hear any hissing coming from the engine. 

Do those psi readings sound right and if not, any idea what the problem might be? 

 

(img of gauges)

https://ibb.co/9YzxzzP

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 


2 Answers
1
Topic starter

Blower motor & the flow of air works properly also with the button, forgot to mention that. 


1

I'm not sure how you were handling the gauge set but when checking pressures the valves need to stay closed. Opening them up if the center fitting is open with no refrigerant can connected releases refrigerant out of your AC system.

At rest the low and high sides should have the same pressure. If they are different, assuming the gauges are working OK, that indicates a blockage somewhere in the system.


It was those quick disconnect valves that attach to the high & low valves on the car. Ok so those are supposed to remain closed to get readings? I had a feeling I wasn't doing something right lol.

Thanks, yeah a blockage sounds like it might be it. Actually found a scotty video talking about blockages that isnt in the FAQ. Thanks, Ill try that on the condenser with my lazer thermometer.


The valves on the quick-connects that attach to the car need to be open! I thought you were talking about the valves up on the gauge set.


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