Hello Scotty, mods and fellow DIYers.
Scotty, I must say thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge all these years, greatly appreciated.
I have been able to keep my rav4 running great until recently. Its a 2012 rav4 FWD Auto Base 2.5 168,567 Miles I bought new after college in 2011 and have since seen all 50 states in safely and reliably...UNTIL I made my worst mistake ever. But first what got me to that point...For a few months I was hearing this creaking sound coming out of the front wheel wells during sharp turns and more pronounce when going on any incline. It sounded similar to the clanks described in many videos as a failing cv joint, but at the time i swear it was not a straight CLANK OR CLUNK but more of a creak like you hear from an old door opening. I was adamant i was hearing something with rubber and metal in the sound. Eager to learn and give my baby some new parts (most of which I now realize was not necessary) I started with the control arms and tie rods, sway bars and links. Other than a much needed alignment after I believe I did the replacement well. But again, Up hills and sharp turns I heard the creaking. Next I considered the suspension possibly. Put brand new struts and coils in only to still here the creaking. But around this time, and after countless videos I began to realize the creak I was hearing might actually have been Clanks as I then realized it was not a build up of a noise (like creaky door slowly opening) but was a consistent sounding clank. same loudness during any point in the turn, and uphill. sounded was more perfectly spaced apart clanks like it was coming from something with teeth. Now I was convinced the creaking was clanking the whole time and proceeded to replace the shaft. Passenger side went perfect. Now more creaks or clanks. Now I was certain that once the drivers side half shaft is replaced, everything would be back to normal. I made my big ebay mistake and purchased the first "NEW" shaft from there, and received a questionably new one as this has scraped on the bar out of the box. The creaking/ clanking that was coming from the Inner side of the shaft was gone, but was replaced with an obvious clunk during turns from the outer end of the shaft. Questioning the part i received, I purchased a new one from Advance Auto to verify if it was that shaft. I also simultaneously replaced both wheel hubs to make sure it was not those either.
**additional problem that has been growing at the same time was a shutter of the car when slowing down from 60-70 off the highway. i put on new brakes and disks a few months back but this shutter in addition to a increasing shaking coming from the car/engine during idling after startup and in drive with brakes on but stops during neutral, reverse and driving. Consistently the answer seems to be engine mounts/transmission mount as the source and I replaced all of the mounts the other day. Today, its still shaking during idles, possibly even worse than before new mounts. What else could be causing such a shake?
Now with a shaking car at startup, a shutter while braking and a clanking while turning, I am nervous feeling the urgency to get it all fixed asap but insist on getting to the bottom of it all myself and learning along the way while saving money. But New to Seattle and cold rainy weather coming in fast, it had to get done pronto.
Now for the climax. After watching shaft replacement videos religiously I attempted to fix it all down the road from my house and beat the incoming bad weather. Long story short. 2 nights and 3 days later banging, pulling struggling, baffled that this what seemed to be easy for everyone and I am stuck on the road trying to get the darn shaft out of the crankcase. Those rough days, lack of sleep and cold wet weather clouded my judgement and having no lip for a prybar to grab to remove axle, I made some marks around the seal area of the trans housing. as there now appeared to be a slow leak coming from it. Then (after loosening it for myself) I tried simply gripping it with locking pliers from the outer end and it pulls out like butter. (Just that once, i have since bought a slide hammer and attachment that grabs the shaft and helps remove it)
After installing the brand new half shaft the clanking from the outer shaft area stopped only to be replaced with a clunk from the rack and pinion I believe, but still need a friend to help drive and turn the wheel so i can verify. But the clunking is at a very specific part of when the wheel turns and a separate clunk when I hit bumps so I need to redo balls joints for the clunks on bumps and am leaning towards the tie rods being too lose or tight is what currently is causing the clunking when I turn the steering wheel back and forth, instead of a rack/pinion issue (fingers crossed)
BUT, BACK TO THE MUCH BIGGER ISSUE. The ding seal area of the crankcase. Transmission fluid is flowing out of the trans and the receiving hole for the drivers shaft. I did make a mistake during the install and put the new seal in backwards, So I am sure that is a reason for some of the leaking around the hole. Some fluid is seeping out around the gasket which I believe I broke lifting the trans and engine while installing new mounts. Should be easy fix. But I am terrified of the truth honestly. I want to believe once i get this new seal in the leaking from the shaft area will stop. but in my gut I know the dings around the hole from trying to bang/pry the shaft off is the reason there is fluid dripping at an alarming pace (Have to add a gallon of ATF a day!) If i take it anywhere Im certain once they see the marked the answer is going to be a transmission swap and at that point, the car should be junked? with all of the time spent on this and new parts If thats the case I am leaning towards purchasing a used rav4 and using the broken rav for parts. But i am months away from being able to afford that let alone a new transmission, (unless i can do a swap myself) I can not afford to take much more time off from work and need to use it for work since I am a courier. So my biggest and final question is, is there any potential whatsoever for a solution to stop the leaking from where the shaft goes in that will buy me a few months time? I was considering grinding stone/ honing tool but that seems way to large. maybe a rotary burr to smooth out and resurface the area of the hole, a seal put in the correct way and rv sealant, black gasket maker or anything thats strong enough to make a lasting seal for a few months? Besides this I expect the car to have lasted 500K or more with hope to make it to the million mile club since I have maintained it so well.
I will upload pictures of the area of the damaged hole on the crank case when i go to put the seal in correctly in a day or 2. Until then, any professional opinion would be sincerely appreciated.
I wrote a novel, I apologize.
Thanks everyone!
<3 Brandon
I think you need to see a publisher first & get car advice, second!
XD Lol Im working on it 🙂
Don't use a drill burr tool, hand smooth bad spots lightly, clean religiously, get rtv from auto parts and install ne seal correctly with rtv thin coat on housing and outside bearing (meant outside of seal ring where mates to trans housing)... thin... don't let any get in trans. Wait 24 hours and ya should be ok or at least much improved (don't know how bad it is.
Greatly appreciated HillBilly!
That was painful to read!
When you re do the seal, try not to damage something else - https://youtu.be/y4j_GFRxkF8
Good luck & pray the new seal stops the leak.
Whew !
JB Weld to build up gouged area.
Much appreciated mate!
Yikes, I should have edited first, My apologies for the unnecessary details everyone. Lesson learned!
There’s no reason to apologise at all. Keep calm & fix that leak!
And I'd rather have more than I needed than not enough! Told me a lot about you and your improving mech skills : ) GL and keep us posted.
Exactly! I enjoyed the read, to be honest.
