Hello,
I have a used 2006 Daihatsu Sirion 1000cc and starting from this month the Electric Power Steering light comes on accompanied by a series of clicking noises 1-2 times a week.
I have an LAUNCH Creader 3001 OBDII scanner and it shows no codes when the light is on ( maybe it can't read the code )
When the EPS light comes on in order to make it functional again i have to turn the steering wheel while turning the car on, then it works reliably.
Also tested my battery with the Topdon ArtiBattery101 tester and its 98% charged 100% healthy and the battery its self is 400CCA which is more than then car needs.
Is there anything simple I can do on my own, what do you think the issue is ? where is the motor located ? inside the dash ? How much does it cost to be repaired professionally ?
Thank you
I think I can distiguise 3 error codes, let me know what you guys see
I saw code 52, 55, 57.
Load test the battery and clear codes, See what comes back...
could be just a bug or a weak battery.
( maybe it can't read the code )
Yep, you're going to need to connect a fancier all system scanner.
If I connect a fancier scanner will it detect previous faults as well, now that the light is off ? Does the car keep logs of previous faults ?
Usually yes.
Next to a code there's status, It's either "History" (there was a fault), "Permanent" (history but severe enough to warrant keeping on the warning light) or "Current".
Usually on a Sirion these issues are wiring related, but first you should know what it's unhappy about.
It likely indicates that the electric power steering system is on its way out. For those systems, regarding the repair, you can not do much about it. Find a mechanic to scan with a higher level scan tool and go from there.
I think I can distiguise 3 error codes, let me know what you guys see
I saw code 52, 55, 57.
Load test the battery and clear codes, See what comes back...
could be just a bug or a weak battery.
Correct that is exactly what I saw 52, 55, 57 :
Looking up the codes at https://obd2-codes.co provided the following results:
ECU harness is open or shorted,Power Steering ECU circuit poor electrical connection
So it seems that the issue is wire harness related.
Should I have a mechanic check and clean all connections and possibly clean the insides on the motor for carbon residue ?
Use the provided diagnosis info, it tells you it's voltage and a relay inside of the EPS ECU.
You could test the wiring but it's usually good on Toyota products.
Toyota did have weak EPS ECUs at the time though, no clue what's the procedure to replace it but I'd try buying a used one at a Junkyard (It's probably not a part with that much demand so prices may be cheap)
I forgot to add that when I turn the ignition to on all checks come out fine, EPS turns on only when i crank the engine is the EPS module starved of power when I start the car ?
Nope, pretty much all cars don't have power steering until the engine is running.
Update :
I went to 3 mechanics they all scanned the car with the OBDII but they found nothing worng with the car no error code.
What now ?
As i said, you need an all systems scanner for full diagnostics but the EPS flashing does provide some clues.
Hi,
I downloaded the service manual for the car and just bridged a few seconds ago the 2 terminals as shown below:
And what it did was make the EPS light flash but the steering was operational, I don't know what that means ...
I made a video showing the EPS light flashing after following the procedure the Daihatsu manual suggests:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc2tbOHaaZQ
I think I can distiguise 3 error codes, let me know what you guys see
Things I have done so far:
-I have an LAUNCH Creader 3001 OBDII scanner and it shows no codes when the light is on. That is why I used the jumper method on the OBDII port
-Tested my battery with the Topdon ArtiBattery101 tester and its 98% charged 100% healthy and the battery its self is 400CCA which is more than then car needs. Also according to the test alternator is fine as well.
-Swapped EPS fuse no change
-Battery and cables do not look dirty or corroded
-Disconnected battery, left car sit over night , in the morning issue appeared again
-When I park the car wheels are always straight
Issue appears randomly and it usually appears after parking the car for hours, usually in the morning after sitting all night and to make it go away I have to move the steering wheel while turning the ignition and then it works for the rest of the day
Should I have a mechanic check and clean all connections and possibly clean the insides on the motor for carbon residue ?
Issue just happened again a few minutes ago. This time I realized something else. When ever I get the code the car is being sitting under the very hot sun for hours.
Could this be heat related ? and code 57 - C15557 Protection of over-heating of motor or EPS ECU is performed is actually right ?
If its heat related how can it be solved ?
Use the provided diagnosis info, it tells you it's voltage and a relay inside of the EPS ECU.
You could test the wiring but it's usually good on Toyota products.
Toyota did have weak EPS ECUs at the time though, no clue what's the procedure to replace it but I'd try buying a used one at a Junkyard (It's probably not a part with that much demand so prices may be cheap)
OK how did you get to the conclusion that the fault is a relay inside the EPS ECU ? The error code is referring to the wire harness. I will start checking the prices for the EPS ECU
Also could the issue be heat related ? because it happens when the car is baking under the hot sun for hours
OK how did you get to the conclusion that the fault is a relay inside the EPS ECU ? The error code is referring to the wire harness. I will
That's not my conclusion, that's what the table you posted says about these codes:
1
start checking the prices for the EPS ECU
Again, new an ECU will cost A LOT and the procedure might be overly complex.
IMO, and I could be wrong, when guessing, It's best to to find one from a junkyard, there shouldn't be much demand for them.
That's not my conclusion, that's what the table you posted says about these codes:
Yes you are correct I went by what it says on obd2-codes.co "ECU harness is open or shorted,Power Steering ECU circuit poor electrical connection" The manual of the car should be the more accurate one, so I will look for a used EPS ECU.
First I'd load test the battery and alternator, reset the codes and see exactly what comes back.
Remember that even with the manufacturer's recommendations, their conclusion might be mistaken.
First I'd load test the battery and alternator, reset the codes and see exactly what comes back.
Remember that even with the manufacturer's recommendations, their conclusion might be mistaken.
Things I have done so far:
-I have an LAUNCH Creader 3001 OBDII scanner and it shows no codes when the light is on. That is why I used the jumper method on the OBDII port
-Tested my battery with the Topdon ArtiBattery101 tester and its 98% charged 100% healthy and the battery its self is 400CCA which is more than then car needs. Also according to the test alternator is fine as well.
-Swapped EPS fuse no change
-Battery and cables do not look dirty or corroded
-Disconnected battery, left car sit over night , in the morning issue appeared again
-When I park the car wheels are always straight
Issue appears randomly and it usually appears after parking the car for hours, usually in the morning after sitting all night and to make it go away I have to move the steering wheel while turning the ignition and then it works for the rest of the day
I have already tested the battery with Topdon battery and alternator checked out fine. Regarding the code its not there all the time it comes and goes.
For example I will get the code early in the morning when trying to go to work. To make the EPS work I have to turn the wheel while turning the car on the light goes away and seems to work reliably for the rest of the day until I park the car for hours.
What about the EPS motor ? should I have the mechanic open it up and clean it from the inside for carbon residue ?
The code doesn't seem to have anything to do with the EPS motor.
Ideally you should only change one thing at a time, otherwise diagnosis become very messy very fast...