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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Buying a used charger police car? | 20Relevance | 6 years ago | BlakeFerrell | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I am a first responder (full time EMS, volunteer fire fighter, and prior law enforcement) and I am wanting to get a used charger police car because there are easy to add communications equipment to and install emergency lights in. What year charger do you recommend and what problems would I need to look for on the lot? Thanks so much and keep up the great videos! | |||||
| Answer to: should I buy this old RAM pickup | 19Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Do you already have the truck, or are you looking for one? The title of your post made it look like you're considering buying one, then the "meat" of your question seems like you've already bought it. If it's the former, no, any dodge product of that age is well past its prime. My father-in-law has a 1998 dodge Ram 2500 turbodiesel made by Cummins. He very rarely drives it. The radio doesn't work, and the heater works when it wants to. The dodge trucks were made by Daimler-Chrysler, the parent company of Mercedes-Benz. They were a little bit better made ... | |||||
| Answer to: I'm a born and raised Mopar nut. | 19Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Anything from 1998 to 2007 would be your best bet. dodge was owned by Daimler-Chrysler at that point. dodge quality came up a little bit, during that time. If you can drive a manual transmission truck, that would be your best bet. It's much simpler. Automatics have pretty much always been problematic for dodge. My friend had a 2005 dodge Dakota and the transmission went out at around 100k miles. They still tend to rust out, though. They've always made their bodies cheaply. My father-in-law has an old dodge Ram 2500 with a Cummins turbodiesel that's ruste ... | |||||
| Answer to: How reliable is this truck | 19Relevance | 3 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Those old dodge Dakotas were better made than dodge trucks nowadays. Back then, dodge was made by Daimler. They actually increased slightly in their quality. The opposite has happened under Fiat and Stellantis. Manual transmissions are a lot more durable than automatics, but dodge was never great for quality electronics. My father-in-law has a 1998 dodge Ram 2500 Turbodiesel made by Cummins and half the time the radio doesn't work. | |||||
| Camry charging port | 19Relevance | 3 years ago | mayokok183 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 24 Camry XSE here. Will these mess up my car electronics? If no then should I get the 24W or the 49.5W port? They’re both Anker brand btw. The power drive port shows 12V/120W - Anker Car charger Adapter, 24W Dual USB Car Phone charger, PowerDrive 2 for iPhone 14 13 12 11 Pro Max Mini X XR XS 8 Plus, iPad Pro/Air 2/Mini, Note 5/4, LG, Nexus, HTC and More - Anker USB C Car charger, 49.5W PowerDrive Speed+ 2 Adapter, 30W PD Port for iPhone 15 14 13 12 11 Series, Compatible with S10/S9, MacBook Air, iPad Pro, 19.5W Fast Charge Port for S8 and More | |||||
| Answer to: Alternative method of charging Mazda 2024 Plug in | 19Relevance | 3 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If you really want that specific… Look around the vicinity of your neighborhood. See if there is a charger easily accessible. Or a spot where you go to regularly that you can charge your car. I know some folks where I live, with no charger at home, but use the charger at work. It takes a little planning. Depending where you live, it can be done. | |||||
| Answer to: Need to purchase van | 19Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Everything under the Sun was wrong with Chrysler/Dodge minivans. They don't make dodge minivans anymore, and the Chrysler changed names to the Chrysler Pacifica in order to avoid the notoriety associated with the Chrysler Town & Country (both the dodge minivan and the Chrysler minivan shared the same platform). I believe the Chrysler was more "upmarket" than the dodge. Chrysler made millions of them because they were people movers, with a whole lot of creature comforts. I would take a hard pass on anything used, unless you find a Toyota Sienna. | |||||
| RE: Difficult to identify the transmission part | 19Relevance | 6 years ago | Kerem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... in the 1988 model year on a limited basis, it was the first light-duty Chrysler four-speed automatic and was placed behind the 3.9 L and 5.2 L engines for light-duty purposes. Forward direct clutch drum (same as the A998) usually has a 4 friction disc pack - an A999 forward direct clutch drum with the 5 friction disc pack does interchange. A bolt in low/reverse overrun clutch assembly (shared with the A904 derivatives manufactured after 1988) uses a roller clutch which is shared with the GM THM200 and THM2004R. Much like the later production A904 with a wid ... | |||||
| Answer to: Do not like turbochargers. | 19Relevance | 1 year ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Those engineers for the most part are really doing the best they can, all things considered. EPA rules and regulations don't follow the laws of physics 99% of the time. Most lawmakers were attorneys before going into politics, not engineers. EcoBoost engines, and really all ultra-modern, run-of-the-mill turbocharged engines are a massive compromise in order to appease the lawmakers. Most have absolutely no clue about how internal combustion engines work. My 2017 Mustang V6 takes 5W-20 oil, my wife's 2017 EcoBoost takes only slightly heavier oil, 5W-30. Her Mustang is designed to only occasionally use the turbocharger. The engines are great on paper, if you drive conservatively. Most people don't drive conservatively when they know they have turbos in their cars. I have a piston from the 3.6L Pentastar V6, which takes the same oil as my wife's Mustang; I can easily squeeze in the piston rings with my hand. The EcoBoost Mustang isn't designed to constantly use its turbocharger. Most engineers know that in order to put a turbocharger on an engine properly, the piston rings need to be a lot stiffer than in my wife's Mustang's engine. Stiff piston rings require heavier, more viscous oil which decreases gas mileage when the turbo isn't kicking in. That wastes gas, because the turbo is only really meant to accelerate the car, and spool down once the car is going at the driver's desired speed. Once it's at the desired speed and the turbo dies down, increased fluid friction noticeably decreases gas mileage. They're not meant for applications like the WWII-era P-47 Thunderbolt or P-38 Lightning, where simply cruising kicks in the turbocharger, and the turbo doesn't stop until you idle the engine. Those engines had viscous oil, because their engines were intended from the start to pretty much always use forced induction. | |||||
| Answer to: Trickle Charging a Car Battery | 19Relevance | 4 years ago | Glen_stet | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I've been using these on farm equipment, motorcycles and cars for many years, and they work great with a trickle charger. You connect them to the battery and leave the connector out the grille or the like, and just plug them into the trickle charger. That way, there's much less fuss. Many trickle chargers come with them. | |||||
| Answer to: Old muscle car | 19Relevance | 5 years ago | Mod_Man | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You can get the charger for cheaper up front, but the parts are going to cost you. In contrast, the Camaro will cost more to purchase but parts are easier to find and a bit cheaper. Not sure how far you plan on taking the project or what you have in mind for a starter car. Realize that to get either of those cars running well and looking good, you're going to be spending A LOT of cash. You're talking about arguably the most popular year for Camaro as far as restorations go, and same for the charger. Both are nice cars, but neither will be a cheap project to build to completion. If it were me, I'd do the charger. Less popular which I like and I like the design better. | |||||
| Phone barely charging in the car | 19Relevance | 2 years ago | Squirrelgirl | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I noticed in the last week or so that my phone is barely charging in the car. In a half hour drive, it MAYBE goes up 3%. This is a huge change. It usually charges a LOT more. It's not just me and my phone. My teenagers and husband noticed the same thing with their phones. Thinking it was the charger, I replaced it with the same charger and new charging cables. Still slow charging. I had my husband change the fuse in both power outlets and no change. I bought DIFFERENT charger and tried different wires and same thing. It's not Android Auto draining it because as I stated, my husband is having the same issue and he never connects to Android Auto. It's not our Galaxy phones (S22 Ultra and S23+) as this is happening to my kids' iPhones as well. 2018 Hyundai Tucson limitedNEW car battery in April.NOTHING else in the car is acting weird. There is NO debris in either outlet, I cleaned them out just in case. I am at a total loss as to what it could be. Before I spend money that I don't have and bring the car in, is there anything else we can check or do? I feel like it's probably a simple solution. Any help or ideas would greatly be appreciated. | |||||
| Your video on resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery and connecting the terminals | 19Relevance | 3 years ago | Ninja7 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, is disconnecting the 12 volt battery and connecting the positive and negative cables with a wire safe to do on a hybrid? We own a 2008 Nissan Altima Hybrid with only 26,500 km (approximately 16,400 miles) on the odometer and we've kept it maintained and in new condition. I used a trickle charger on the 12 volt battery without any problems but the last time I did it, the airbag warning light came on (the trickle charger showed a red light, too, indicating that there had been a problem). The Nissan dealership diagnosed a faulty front passenger cushion airbag sensor and replaced it but the light was still flashing. They then replaced the airbag diagnosis sensor unit but again with no success. They told me to forget about it and just live with the flashing warning light but not before they took my $2,000 for the parts and labour. I always thought that the trickle charger somehow messed up the ECU and the boot-up sequence so I thought I'd try to drain the charge from the car by doing what you did in your video. But is is safe to drain the charge by connecting the positive and negative cables with a wire on a hybrid? Will it affect my hybrid engine battery or its circuits? If it's safe and it won't cause any more problems, I'll do it but if there is a possibility it might make the problem worse, I won't. By the way, when we bought the car (brand new) in 2008 and went to pick it up at the dealership, they said there was a small glitch in the car's computer and they had to reprogram it. They did it with a laptop. Does disconnecting the battery and draining the charge do the same thing as what the dealer did, i.e. reset the ECU? Thanks in advance for any information you can provide. | |||||
| left ignition on overnight | 19Relevance | 3 years ago | truecynic | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Got a 2006 Corolla with 89,000 miles on it and I am the original owner. I left the ignition on overnight. Went to start it, no lights, nothing. Put a charger on the battery. After about 8 hours went to take off the charger and the charger was displaying battery no good. There was enough charge, however, so it turned over and started. After a few hours I went to start the car again and nothing. I put on my battery tester and it showed Dead Cell. So I went and got a new battery. I installed it, went to start the car and nothing. Engine did not even turn over, BUT there were lights and my tester showed good 100% life. I then got a long ratchet extension tapped on the starter and it started. Could leaving on the ignition have damaged the starter? | |||||
| RAV4 ‘Parasitic’ Battery Drain Problem | 19Relevance | 4 years ago | Clipper48 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2021 RAV4 Trail (Adventure) with ~27000km. This is the 2nd winter since I have owned this vehicle, and I live in Manitoba, Canada where it gets very cold (colder than -30c/-22F) routinely. The battery in the RAV4 drains below 11 volts in less than 5 days unless I drive it every day for at least 30 minutes, or I put a trickle charger on it. The dealer says this is normal, however the following class action lawsuit has come to my attention. .Parasitic-battery-drain-defect-class-action Have you heard anything of this, or of similar issues with 2020/2021 RAV4's?By the way, it's bad enough I have to put a battery trickle charger onto my car battery every 3 days (if I don't run it) in cold weather. But, the NOCO Genius charger I purchased won't work in temperatures below -20C (-4F), and needs to be warmed up before connecting, then placed near the block heater. | |||||