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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: 2005 Toyota Sienna bearings | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | kesterpaul62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The bearing, hub and knuckle will cost more than just the wheel bearing and hub. I would normally go with just the bearing and hub to save time but if the situation is severe, then buy the bearing, hub and knuckle. | |||||
| Replacing wheel bearings | 21Relevance | 1 year ago | AllWheelDrive&SteeringChariots | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scotty and everyone, I will be replacling all the wheel bearings on my 08 Lexus GS350 AWD soon. I see from the Lexus site and other brands that the front left and right wheel bearing/hubs will have different prices, so, the left side will be $2 to $5+ more than the right side. Is it ok to just buy two right side wheel bearing/hubs and install for both sides?? Best regards, Mike B. | |||||
| Weird Tire-like noise, wheel bearing? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Aaron D. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I've got a 2013 Toyota Venza 2.7L 4 cylinder with 96,000 miles. I am getting some noise coming from the front passenger side that sounds like a tire. The noise gets louder as speed gets higher. I took it to Discount Tire and the guy told me 2 of the tires were cupping and he showed me where they were cupping while he had them off of the car. Replaced those 2 tires and rotated and balanced them while it was there, and the noise didn't go away. I double checked and they did replace the correct tires. My friend is a mechanic so I took it to him. We determined the wheel wasn't bent, and we swapped the 2 front tires and the noise stayed in the same place. We checked the axle and it was sealed and not leaking. He thinks it might be the start of a bad wheel bearing but isn't sure. There was a bit of a humming noise at lower speeds when you couldn't hear the noise. My grandma probably hit a lot of curbs when it was her car, so that wouldn't be suprising. Are we on the right track and is there anything else that could cause this? I took a video of the noise and uploaded it to YouTube: Thank you for your help! | |||||
| Possible bad drive axel, u joint, or wheel bearing? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | OldManEstabon | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I have a 2011 Honda Pilot FWD touring with 190,000 miles on it and there is a strange noise coming from the front. I don’t have the words to describe it, but the best sound I could think to type is this “bwawawawawawawa” sounding noise that only gets worse with higher speeds. I’ve jacked it up to see if it was the wheel bearing but there wasn’t any play in the tires. Also get this, it seems to get better when you turn ever so slightly to the right. Going around shallow right bends it (almost) sounds normal again. Unfortunately the second you turn the wheel back to straight it’s back again. I took it to a mechanic and they want $120.00 just to look at it. I don’t really want to shell out that money just yet if it’s something I might be able to fix myself. Any ideas as to what could be going on, and what I can do to fix the issue? Thanks so much for reading, and have a wonderful day! | |||||
| Answer to: 2018 Camry Wheel bearing bad? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | geriscan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It depends on the mileage, as well. Generally, decent wheel bearings will last 100K miles. You don't mention the mileage on the car, which is a critical detail. If it's approaching 100K, they will probably not accommodate you. But press them, anyway. Another thing, however. When one goes bad, often, the others are sure to follow. You might find, as I did in 2016, that when you believe one has been done, you hear another that has been drowned out by the louder or loudest wheel with the worst bearing. It's an unpleasant surprise. And, at least the dealer in Central Texas I dealt with tried to mark up the bearings by 100 percent. Get the part number, buy them yourself (I bought Moog's) and have an independent shop install them. | |||||
| How do I fix loud humming from rear wheel | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Mr.E | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Alrighty so first thanks to all who replied on my previous post regarding my wheel bearing situation on my 2001 jaguar s type 3.0 but now i have a follow up question. So i had the mechanics do the job and replaced both rear wheel bearing assembly however now i hear a loud humming noise from the passenger rear tire and it drowns out most of the noise when driving. I had an alignment done on all 4 tires and found they needed it but after i drove off with it it still has that noise. When im doing any kind of driving regardless of the angles only one side does the noise go away and its when im either turning right or when theres a curve and im going to the right. The noise wasnt present before i had it serviced. only after did i notice the humming im not sure whats wrong. I am aware as they did inform me that the rear tie rods both inner and outer need to be replaced as well as the rear sway bar links as the rubber is shot. Could that be the issue with the noise? Or when they did the job with the wheel bearings did they potentially make a mistake or rather did damage occur during the time i still drove the vehicle up intill i had it worked on? God bless if you guys can shed any light as this is still my only car and currently i cant get my hands on any other car for the time being | |||||
| Steering Wheel Wobble @ certain speed | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | H2O MAN | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If everything else checks out, could worn steering rack bushings cause a wobble in the steering wheel? LONG READ. I get this annoying wobble from 46 to 52 mph range traveling up slight hills here in Athens, GA ... This truck has always had a Cadillac ride until I had to make a rather violent panic stop to avoid hitting the Prius that decided to turn in front of me at the last minute as I traveled the 4 lane hwy in the fast lane at 50 mph and accelerating from 45 to 55 mph. I had all 4 wheels locked (non ABS vehicle) resulting in a long tire smoking skid toward the far right curb. I was able to release the brakes in time to avoid striking the curb. As a result I have experienced a lot of wobble and vibration, the flat spotted tires and ruptured center carrier bearing caused all of the vibration and most of the steering wheel wobble. My dealer and I are still chasing down the source of the remaining steering wheel wobble. The truck just turned over 180,000 miles and since making the panic stop it has new road force balanced Michelin tires, new front shocks and end link rods & bushings (dry rotted rubber parts), a new drive shaft assembly because the original center carrier bearing rubber seal was torn during the stop... BTW, this is the 2nd new driveshaft because my Toyota dealer believed the first one was out of balance per Scotty's suggestion, new rear shocks, and one new steering rack bushing (outside right) because movement was detected. thanks for looking. | |||||
| Answer to: Is it necessary to change wheel bearing | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | Dad2LM2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| That may be true if the bearing is stable. Plenty of videos out there on checking your bearings for stability, and it might be safe to drive for the time being. But its only a matter of time. So if it were me, I would look for a convenient time to change them. Only problem is I believe your car has press-in bearings, which require proper tools to do correctly. (There was a recent post here about DIY bearing change that went wrong.) | |||||
| Answer to: Toyota Venza wheel bearing issue | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | BruceREE | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Does the car pull to one side? Even still, improper alignment can add more tension to the bearing but if the thing is only slightly pulling and not full on trying to turn left or right while on the stright road then the bearing should be able to take that additional tension. Sure it would fail sooner but not this soon. Do you have a brand that these bearings are coming from? | |||||
| Answer to: Why do my wheel bearings keep breaking? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| all it takes is for the steel balls to be out round (you won't see it). Or the walls of bearing race get scored. what do you mean? where else would they fall apart? If there are other parts of your vehicle which are worn out like suspension or steering, it will accelerate wear on your bearings. Just something to be aware of. Without seeing your car ,I cannot comment on your particular situation. | |||||
| Crazy Deleted Codes on newer 2020 Acura TLX | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | detroitcarquestions | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scotty and everyone! I just had a 2020 Acura TLX FWD 2.4L I4 16V GDI DOHC (auto trans) with only 22,000 miles that I was going to buy from a dealer. Had a mechanic scan it and these deleted codes were found. No current warning lights on. Any help would be soooo appreciated. Failed battery test 475 cca out of 650 C1600-94 Precision All wheel Steer System Unexpected Operation U0126-00 F-CAN Malfunction (Precision All wheel Steer Control Unit Steering Angle… U0100-00 F-CAN Malfunction (Precision All wheel Steer Control Until-PCM) U101-00 F-CAN Malfunction (Precision All wheel Steer Control Until-TCM) U0122-00 F-CAN Malfunction (Precision All wheel Steer Control Until-VSA Modulator) U0155-00 F-CAN Malfunction (Precision All wheel Steer Control Until-Gauge Control) U0029-00 F-CAN Malfunction (Bus Off) U129D Gauge Control Module Lost Communication With RTC Unit U129D F-CAN Malfunction (ECM/PCM-Precision All wheel Steer) U0128-00 CAN Communication Failure With Electric Parking Brake U129D00 Refer to OEM repair information for code description U0416-68 VSA Brake Actuator Malfunction U0420-68 EPS Control Unit Malfunction U1482-68 Precision All wheel Steer Control Unit Malfunction | |||||
| Answer to: Daughter is moving from Coastal AL to VT - best vehicle for snow??? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | theeel | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have driven front wheel drives, all-wheel drives, rear wheel drives, and 4x4's. Nothing beats a 4x4 but a front wheel drive is OK. I wasn't impressed with all-wheel drives and rear wheel drives don't get around on snow and ice very well. I drove 4x4's at work for over 30 years and sometimes I had to chain up. That said, my personal 4x4 is a 2014 Nissan Xterra but they stopped selling them after 2015. It's been very reliable so getting a used one might not be a bad idea. But if you buy a used vehicle you should have a mechanic check it out and you should get all the fluids changed - people tend not to drain and replace transmission fluid or axle fluids or transfer box fluids or antifreeze - probably because of the long service interval. Even the companies that I worked for didn't change those fluids when they were suppose to - only engine oil got changed. And I know that rear wheel drive isn't good on snow and ice since I have a Mustang with rear wheel drive. Buying new or used will probably give you sticker shock at this point in time. Good luck. | |||||
| Answer to: Burnt carpet smell from my 2016 BMW X6 | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | Kevinle970 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, So as an update: I took the car to a mechanic today to get it diagnosed, which cost about $65. The discovery was that the humming noise was from the left front wheel bearing, and the burnt carpet smell is a result of the valve cover leak causing oil to leak onto the exhaust. In addition there is also the oil pan gasket leak. It was uncovered that my rear shocks are leaking as well. The mechanic gave me quote: the left wheel bearing replacement: $691 Rear Shocks: $426 x2 valve cover leak: $1,252 Oil Pan Gasket: $649 I think my bmw currently uses the Bilstein Shocks, but the mechanic recommended KYB shocks instead. He said I could go for the original shocks but it will probably cost more. Question: Shouldnt the shocks be the same for all four wheels? If he recommends kyb shocks for the rear then does that mean i have to kyb shocks in the front too? Or they can be both Bilstein in the front and KYB in the back? Also, is it necessary to replace both wheel bearings or just the left front one? What is the severity of these issues? I think ill tackle the wheel bearings first, but not sure if the shocks or the valve cover/ oil pan gasket leak are an urgent issue that need tk be addressed asap? Thanks for help and feedback in advance!! Kevin | |||||
| Answer to: ECS/ABS disabled, multiple electrical problems | 19Relevance | 10 months ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If a wheel bearing is loose to the point where the wheel is flopping around it can interfere with the sensor readings. If the bearing is merely making noise and not actually loose yet, then no. | |||||
| drivers side road noise | 19Relevance | 3 years ago | cementplug709 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2012 mazda 3 original owner , getting a noise something wheel bearing like , almost like heavy tread tires on the road. when I cut the wheel left it stops or noise reduces . i've jacked up car and checked to see if the bearing was gone that way but seems solid and fine . is it possible the bearing is dry inside causing this noise or can it be something with my cv axle . also im ruling out breaks I just took them apart cleaned and re-greased the sliders | |||||