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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: 1998 Honda Accord Brake System Concerns | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Sunny Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I just took my car into my local mechanic earlier today, and he basically took the rear wheels and brake rotors off and made adjustments to my rear drum brakes. Now my car can stop quicker a little more, the brake pedal feels a little more firm, and the emergency handbrake is even tighter when I pull it up. My mechanic John also said to me I don't need to add any more brake fluid, because my brake fluid will go low if both the rear drum brake pads start to wear out. So i returned a bottle of Prestone DOT 3 brake fluid unopened back to AutoZone for a refund on store gift card and $0.76 in change. Mechanic didn't tell me to change anything, all he did was adjustments to probably tighten the connection on the brake system. Although he told me to get front and rear main crankcase seal for a unrelated separate issue with my car leaking oil from underneath and would cost a lot to do that. Although I do wonder what would still be causing the now periodic squeaking noises from my brakes now, if it's not from the rear drum brakes. | |||||
| Answer to: Brake disc paste | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | RonJr | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The rule is (Never) apply grease to the braking surfaces (face of the rotor or pad). brake "lube" should always be applied to the caliper glides (I always clean the glides and boots first before applying new brake lube grease). this will help the calipers glide smoothly, reduce moisture and rust, etc. This said, regarding applying paste to disc brakes, brake (lube) grease or anti-squeal grease can be applied to the (backside) of the pads and the brake pad (tabs) to reduce brake squeal, moisture and rust, however, always apply a very thin coat and I would not apply grease directly near the rotors. In addition, I always (carefully clean the face of both rotor and new brake pads with brake cleaner prior to installation) being careful not to spray any rubber parts or greased areas. The following example is a pretty good example but I would use even less than he applies (especially in the caliper tab area near the rotor face). | |||||
| Answer to: 1999 Ranger - how do I repair leaky brake line | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I think that "corrugated plastic" part you're looking at is the plastic mounting plate. On the top side which you can't see it has a grooved track where the brake line goes. I don't think you'll find a connection under there. More likely, corroded brake line. If you don't have the tools, flaring tool and tubing bender, and the parts, brake line and fittings, I'd suggest you do a google search for, 98-01 Ford Ranger Intermediate brake Line Kit . For less than it will cost you to buy the tools and parts to make your own section of brake line, you can buy the section of brake line you need, pre-bent, with the double-flared ends and fittings. I've done brake line repairs both ways. Buying a coil of tubing, doing the bends, and making the double-flares on the end of each section, and I've bought the pre-made line sections. Using the pre-made lines is the way to go. | |||||
| Brake lights not working | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | Qcbtbx | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2004 Tahoe Auto with FF V8 4WD and 213000 on the clock. Problem I'm having is the brake lights aren't working--the center high mount stop light (CHMSL) and the brake lights don't respond when pressing the brake pedal. The tail lights are lit up, but don't brighten up when brake pedal is depressed. What I've done so far is... 1. Check under the hood fuse for power. Fuse is good, getting power. 2. Checked CHMSL and vehicle stop fuses inside driver door for power when pressing the pedal and nothing. 3. Check the brake fuse in driver door area and that has constant power whether the pedal is pressed or not. Is that correct. I even replaced all the aforementioned fuses as well...nothing. 4. Replaced stop light switch on brake pedal since I accidentally broke the old one inspecting the internals. Car has a adjustable pedal, so I bought the switch that's for that setup. brake lights still not working though. 5. I even swapped out the bulbs and the circuit board on the rear passenger fender just to see if anything would change... nothing. I did both of these independently by the way. 6. Cleaned up grounds under the driver door on the frame with some sandpaper since they were rusty anyway, nothing. I did notice one of the grounds had a tiny bit of corrosion. Didn't get around to replacing it because I had to stop work. 7. Don't know if this has anything to do with it, but I do have a C0550 code which leads me to replace ABS control module needs replacing. This related? I'm thinking of just replacing the harness that plugs into the tail lights and the CHMSL itself. Should I bother doing that or no? Could the issue be the PCM? Thanks for the help. | |||||
| 2015 CR-V Brake Pedal Travel | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | mercerguy323 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2015 Honda CR-V, 50,000 miles, automatic. My brake pedal height fluctuates on my 2015 CR-V and, I don't know why. I love a "touchy" brake pedal that grabs right away as I feel it helps with my reaction time. I feel like the 2015 CR-V pedal travels too far, seemingly halfway, before serious braking occurs. I had Honda replace the brakes and rotor but, the same thing happens. Oddly enough, EVERY TIME I have my CR-V serviced at Honda, my brake pedal height problem disappears and I drive out with brakes that grab right away, the way I wish they would all of the time !Unfortunately, that grabby brake feeling goes away in a week or two. Even an oil change results in great brake pedal height and almost immediate grabbing. I've asked the service manager just exactly what they do to make my brakes work so well but, to date they haven't given me an answer. Is there any sort of adjustment I can do myself to make the brake pedal travel as small as possible? On my old Civic you could brake hard while backing up and, that was supposed to "adjust" the brakes for more grab. Does the 2015 CR-V have a self adjusting trick? Thanks! | |||||
| Brake Fluid Flush with ABS | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | Stefanos | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2016 Toyota Corolla L 4 speed automatic 1.8L 2ZR-FE 60,000 miles I flush my brake fluid the common way at each wheel with the bleeder valve starting furthest from the brake fluid reservoir. Then pump the brakes to send new fluid from reservoir to the bleeder valve. The service manual says I need a scan tool to cycle fresh fluid into the ABS module. This means the ABS system is closed and only opens when activated. But I don’t have a scanner. Can I skip the step to cycle the ABS if I change the brake fluid every 30,000 miles or 3 years? I last changed my brake fluid at 32k miles. If cycling fresh fluid into ABS is required, can I do it effectively without the scanner using the following method: I live in the north. What if I change the brake fluid around the winter time during a snow day. I can change the fluid, drive in the snow and activate the ABS several times, then change the brake fluid a second time. I just don’t know if all 4 ABS valves will cycle during this activity. Maybe I should stop hard in the snow going forward and also in reverse. Alternatively, a gravel road will work for those without snow. Or is it not necessary if I’m changing the fluid every 30,000 miles? Financial consideration for other readers: Shop wants $100 for brake fluid change. Autel Maxicheck Pro scanner has ABS auto bleed function costs $189. Including cost of fluid, it would take about 2 services to recoup investment of scanner purchase. Thank you! | |||||
| 2018 VW Atlas "Shifty" transmission | 20Relevance | 3 years ago | virtualko | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... parking sensors are a lot less sensitive than they used to be, (a very strange) gas tank 'outgasses' through the gas cap pipe and doesn't allow fuel to be added and (2) bigger issues, which are 1) weird stalling (low RPMS) when I'm either @ very low speeds (parking lot or at a red light) and 2 the BIGGEST problem I have, which is the AT shifting issues. Both of these is when the car has been warmed up. Majority of these are odd issues and fall mostly under "annoying" but not critical. The A/C corrected itself apparently. parking sensors could either be a c ... | |||||
| Answer to: Toyota Kentucky HOT info | 20Relevance | 3 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... level - it's not a big deal, looking at grid expansion in the US there's no question that 10% in 5 years is doable. Paving a road with asphalt costs $370,000 to $900,000 per mile, EV chargers are nothing to municipalities. Here the municipality announces that it will allow X chargers to be installed and the higher bidder gets to install them and collect the profits (capped at 15% of revenue) I own my parking lot spaces, it's in my טאבו, and if I would own an EV I would just pay the $1,000 to have the charger installed and always have my car fully char ... | |||||
| Bulbs smoking after halogen to LED light conversion | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Connor Lasher | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi. I have a 07 toyota corolla. I bought led turn signals but I'm not sure what else I need for them or really how to properly wire them. The bulb is a 3157A bulb that is the parking light and a signal in one. I bought a new flasher resistor thing to stop hyperflashing. It does its job fine and works well. I thought that would get me by without buying the resistors. Apperently not. I put the new leds in and the signal/hazard function works fine but as soon as I turn the parking lights on the parking/tail light fuse instantly blows. To fix this I got uped the ... | |||||
| Answer to: Our EV Future? GM’s recommendation to Chevy Bolt owners | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Figmund Sreud | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| We don’t care, we don’t have to. Apparently if you leave your electric car near another car you can burn down the whole parking garage After Two Recalls, GM Finally Just Tells Bolt EV Owners: “Don’t Park Your Car Within 50 Feet Of Another Car” After a series of recalls that we have documented here on Zero Hedge, General Motors looks to be taking its precautions with the Chevy Bolt one step further: the automaker is asking Bolt owners to park “at least 50 feet” from other vehicles if you’re going to leave your car in a parking deck. GM spokesman Dan Flo ... | |||||
| RE: What’s the best anti-theft system or deterrent? | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | Surge | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... is always hot, so even if the engine is off, it will stay on, until it would drain the battery. So i just bought a hardwire kit and will get a shop to install it for me, directly to the fuse box and/or battery. I think it has a relay in it that goes in the fuse box that detects the charge level of the battery and cuts off parking mode recording if it gets below a certain voltage, so that it will have enough juice to start in the morning snd recharge. The steering club is a deterrent to most thieves here in Chicago. Unless they plan on bringing an entire ... | |||||
| 2018 Toyota Camry ICS Malfunction - Visit Your Dealer | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | JohnB1963 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2018 Toyota Camry with 32K miles on it. It is just out of factory warranty by a month. While driving down the interstate the code ICS Malfunction - Visit your Dealer came on. It appears that the parking assist is not working. I cleaned the sensors out with WD-40 and it made no change. They lane assist function is not working either. That is the function that keeps the car in the lane and prevents it from going into the other lane. I do not think those sensors even use the same ones as the parking sensor. Maybe it is off by default because of the err ... | |||||
| Steering wheel turns less to the left side | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Biro | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... every day and as you can imagine I often have to squeeze my car into tight parking spots. (Thank God it's a small car and perfect for the job) That requires me to lock my wheel fully to one side very often. Few days ago I locked my wheel to the left and heard some ugly scrubbing noise when it locked. When I come home, I usually park reverse on my drive, and lock my wheel to the left to do it. I know exactly where to stop when I approach the parking spot, so when I lock my wheel, I can squeeze into my parking spot just perfect using this method. But after ... | |||||
| RE: electric problem pontiac g6 | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You won't get any argument from me that chasing down electrical issues is time consuming. Yours is even more difficult because the fuse takes 3 minutes to fry after you turn on the parking lights. Looking at the diagram it appears that the HVAC control module and the BCM receive a 12 volt signal when you turn on the parking lights and they're likely controlling that interior illumination. The fuse is blowing because too much amperage is flowing through it. Why would that happen? Corrosion/short. In this circuit the most likely place for it to happen i ... | |||||
| Answer to: EPB how to disable | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | OLD GUYS RULE | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I've been looking at this post since yesterday. To clarify, an EPB is a electric parking brake that can also be used only in emergencies to slow or stop a vehicle. It's dual purpose. An automatic transmission parking pawl is quite strong but over time they do become worn and will no longer hold the vehicle even on a modest incline. You could easily discover things have reached this point when you least expect it, like once you've exited the vehicle and locked the doors. Very dangerous, I've seen it happen. Another point I'd like to make is that it's against ... | |||||