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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Should I replace the timing chain | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Caprone21 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty! I just recently bought a BMW 320d 2013 msport. It has nearly 100k mileage. Also I do not have any service history. Should I change my timing chain or is ir going to last longer? many thanks! | |||||
| Answer to: How do I replace the timing chain tensioner | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If you're getting noise from the cover, the timing chain system needs to replaced as a complete kit to include tensioners, sprockets, chains and guides, along with new gaskets. It is a big job. Replacing just the tensioners just won't get the job done. | |||||
| Ignition timing advance / retardation issue | 23Relevance | 1 year ago | AmirAmkec | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, Hope you are doing well. Recently I was looking at live data of my car (Opel Astra 1.4 petrol 120 miles). I am concerned about timing advance data. When car starts and its cold its timing is about 3-6 degrees but when car heats up and drops on idle speeed 840 +- 20 timing advance drops below 0 (-2, -3) than back to 5, 6. Also when I rev the car it goes higher (normally) and then when it drops it goes down to -10 or even -14. No misfires or any error codes. Im using small bluetooth diagnostics and I have only this timing advance data. What could be the issue , and what should I check for ? Im confused because I saw on internet there says it could be couple of things. I changed sparkplugs, ignition coils and timing chain seems fine when I inspected it. Thanks Scotty ! | |||||
| Timing Advance Moves at Idle | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I took advantage of a sale at AutoZone today and bought an Innova 3100RS scanner for $125, they're $200 direct from Innova. I hooked it up to my Ranger and let it idle. The long and short term fuel trims are more or less 0%, with some intermittent -2% readings. The catalytic converters were also reading 99.2% efficient, for a 22-year-old Ford with 274,000 miles, I'd say that's pretty impressive. I noticed an oddity while looking at my live data. The timing Advance at idle fluctuates around 2-5 degrees ahead of, and behind 20 degrees. I've always noticed an intermittent touch of a roughness to the idle, but it doesn't seem to really bother anything and has never tripped a CEL. There are no rattling sounds like a worn timing chain will make. I've heard the 3.0 has issues with its camshaft synchro on non-distributor motors, which the computer uses to set timing via the camshaft position sensor on top. Could a wearing synchro gear be causing the varying timing? Revved up and held, the timing stabilizes itself. | |||||
| Answer to: Toyota hilux 2008 3.0l d4d diesel | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | 4QR2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Could also be a timing issue. If the injector pump is the metering pump (not common rail), then it has to be bolted on in exactly the right rotation. Like timing with a distributor on a petrol engine, but I doubt you can do it by ear, and certainly not with a strobe. You need a micrometer dial gauge and the correct setting for the pump model and engine. Also the timing belt. I once had the idler bearing seize and the belt jumped one tooth, so put the diesel timing out. It pumped out grey, stinky, waxy smoke and ran like a dog. I thought it feels like a petrol car with the timing out, but didn't immediately consider that diesels have timing too. A new timing belt kit and waterpump fixed that. Shortly thereafter the injector pump sprang a leak, so that was reconditioned too. So both aspects of timing now good, and fuel economy better by 1 litre per 100 kms, an improvement of 8% or 9%. | |||||
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