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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Bad rear wheel bearing abs disabled | 37Relevance | 4 years ago | willrev | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 07 Tundra. 223k mi. At 209k replaced both rear sealed bearings, seals myself. No abs Trac system issues before repair. After repair, started progressing worse throwing codes that used to clear, but now won't clear. Brakes power bled twice. Stops on a dime, firm pedal, but no abs. Code u0126 lost communication with steering angle sensor won't clear. Dealer said bad angle sensor. I replaced it. Did not fix anything. So since the abs sensors are all working and reading and not bad, I'm thinking I got a bad koyo wheel bearing or the shop that pressed it on damaged it during install on the axle. A damaged tone ring inside that bearing could cause the sensor not to read and shut down the abs system. When I pull the sensor on passenger side it is clean and dry. The rear sensor on driver side is covered in clear grease leaking from bearing. My guess is a defective bearing. I cant spend thousands diagnosing. Kid in college. I'm out $400 to toyota dealer who said angle sensor bad. Cheapest sensor is $230. I installed yesterday and codes still would not clear and it would not establish communication with can bus system. Thoughts???? In pic, abs sensor mounts in hole on flat side of flange. Small hole is for its bolt. So tone ring for speed is sealed inside bearing. Can't inspect for damage visually. My guess if grease is leaking internally then something is bad inside even though it's new. | |||||
| Bent wheel and wheel bearings | 37Relevance | 5 years ago | baldeagle | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scotty. I purchased a new Toyota Camry V6 XLE in Oct 2006. Our dealer got this car for us from a another dealer 100 miles away. The reason I mention the 100 mile transfer between dealerships is due to need of realignment and wheel bearing wear on this car. This car has always run smooth and tracked straight after our dealer did a realignment after purchase. All four tires always seem to wear evenly as they age. The mystery is why did this car need a new left front wheel bearing at 84,000 miles and another wheel bearing on the right rear at 120,000 miles. The car now has 150,000 miles on it. I was told the other day by a tire dealer who was installing 4 new tires on this car that one of the wheels was bent and then he proceeded to try and sell me a set of new wheels. I said I would think about the wheels and get back to him. The car still runs perfectly smooth up to 70 mph but I wonder if perhaps there may be a bent wheel causing the wheel bearings to wear out prematurely. Wouldn't I feel a shimmy or vibration if one of wheels was bent that much to cause wheel bearings to wear out? Thank you in advance for your opinion on this. | |||||
| Bad wheel bearings? | 31Relevance | 4 years ago | Ag408548 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 08 Toyota Solara, 151k miles, automatic, v6, convertible Not too sure if it's a bad wheel bearing, my friend and a diff shop looked at it said no Lex Broodies said noise is def coming from wheel bearings, gave me 1600 quote to replace. I turn the wheel when driving I hear some noise, and car shakes lil bit sometimes. I'm still driving it around, gotta get around hopefully it's fine for a few days. Could it be something other than a wheel bearing? Tires are brand new tho Two mechanics say not wheel bearing and one says yeah. | |||||
| Answer to: Is it necessary to change wheel bearing | 31Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If the wheel bearing is making noise now is the time to replace it. If the bearing seizes up there can be a lot of collateral damage, not to mention possibly causing an accident. (Of course you'll want to verify it's actually the wheel bearing making the noise.) | |||||
| Answer to: 2012 Toyota Sienna vibration and mileage problem | 29Relevance | 4 years ago | willrev | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's something in the suspension. Normally transmission shudder is felt when shifting. Ball joints, tie rod ends, or it could be a wheel bearing. My guess is a bad rear wheel bearing. We had brand new tires on my wife lexus rx 350 suv. Got a horrible shudder at highway speed that stopped when you backed off. It was a bad rear wheel bearing. They are sealed and have to be replaced. My Toyota truck developed the same issue. Rear wheel bearing again. That's my vote. | |||||
| Answer to: Wheel Bearing Adjustment/ Need New Bearing Already? | 29Relevance | 4 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yep, replaced the ring retainer they ride in, along with the rotor/hub assembly itself. I packed the bearings by hand with autozone wheel bearing grease out of a pack and put extra in the back of the assembly. It wasn't a greasy mess in there like it was originally. How packed full of grease is that supposed to be? It was pretty much full when I tore it apart. The wheel bearings were AutoZone branded. | |||||
| Part-time vs. full-time all-wheel drive benefits - myth or true? | 37Relevance | 5 years ago | DontKnowler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| As long as I can remember myself I have only been driving full-time all-wheel drive cars, because I considered them the best option for our cold climate. However over the years I´ve heard multiple time from various part-time all-wheel drive advocates, that part-time all-wheel-drive is a more fuel-efficient solution: following the lines that "when you do not need full-wheel drive, and this is most of the time, you just turn it off and dont pay for it / conserve fuel" etc. I am not saying that this is incorrect: never really did or read an in-depth study or comparison. But I would be happy to read a well-grounded explanation for the statement that part-time all-wheel-drive is more fuel-efficient, than full-time, if this really is the case? Because when I just start thinking of it, I cannot understand why that would / could be: how exactly would part-time all-wheel-drive help conserve fuel? Basically, part-time all-wheel drive vehicles have all the mechanical parts full-time all-wheel drive vehicles have, which are required to propel the 4 wheels. Even if you temporarily disconnect some of those parts from your engine mechanically, they arguably still keep rotating, and the energy needed for this rotation is still delivered by that same engine - what changes is just the, so-to-say, energy delivery route: after such disconnection, such energy starts being delivered to those disconnected parts not directly via the drivetrain, but indirectly (unless you disconnect them in two points simultaneously - one on the drivetrain side, and the other - on the wheels side). So where is the gain? In addition to that: when you switch the two wheels off, these extra parts required to propel those wheels do not lose their weight, and the car still has to carry this weight around, and not only that of these parts, but also of the additional device - the two wheels connection-disconnection device - a device a full-time all-wheel drive vehicle simply does not need. Inevitably, every additional device means more weight and less fuel economy. Also, part-time all-wheel drive vehicles have to have a more strong (hence more heavy and less fuel-efficient) drivetrain part which delivers the engine power to the wheels which always stay connected to the engine - cause in two-wheels-drive mode this drivethatin part has to process 100% of the engine power output on a long-term basis. With full-time all-wheel drive vehicles, this is not the case - with them, the engine power is always distributed (in whatever proportion, but almost never 0/100%) between all the four wheels, hence, their drivetrain in general can be built more lightweight, hence more fuel-efficient... To cut a long story short, I personally cannot wrap my head around why exactly part-time all-wheel drive vehicles can have any tangible fuel consumption related benefits when compared to full-time all-wheel drive cars, and would appreciate a meaningful explanation, Thanks in advance! | |||||
| Answer to: Front right wheel hub wheel bearing keep getting slightly loose! | 37Relevance | 5 years ago | EgyCode | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thank you for your reply, yes there is a notch on the cv joint where I use a punch to lock the nut after tightening it.. but what I've noticed that the other side nut don't need much torque to remove the bearing play while tightening it! But the right side need much torque to remove the bearing free play than the recommended torque specification! I used two koyo bearings, NTN and GMB brands over 2 years and all have the same issue and the surprising one that has the little free play and I feel the car more stable with steering is with the KG bearing brand which is made in China with less torque even with free play felt while the car on the ground when I grab the wheel and move it back and forth or in and out at 2 o'clock position!! As I mentioned before I changed the knuckle 4 times and all have the same torque issue with many different expensive bearing brands! | |||||
| Answer to: Motor Mount/Wheel bearing | 37Relevance | 6 years ago | Figmund Sreud | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| First thing, I would start looking at a wheel bearing. Park your car on flat firm surface. Block - both sides of left rear wheel with chocks - for safety. Next, use your emergency jack to lift the front left wheel clear of the ground. Instal some kind of solid block or safety stand under the car - front left end - for safety, this is important - you don’t want front jack to slip accidentally and drop the car! Now, … real work starts: sit down in front of the raised wheel, say on something 6” flat - you want to be comfortable and solidly sitting. Grab your wheel with your hands at 12 and 6 o’clock, … jiggle it back and forth, listen for clunking, watch for rocking movement of the wheel, … look behind a wheel, too. Often you can detect a signs of rocking movement easier there, … … if you do identify any rocking or/and clunking, … Houston, we just found the problem! Note, be cognizant that there will be bit of a clunk if you try to rotate the wheel, … that simply is a gear lash - normal clearance between gear teeth inside a gearbox. Try above first. If there is no problem, let us know, … we will come up with a procedure to diagnose a motor mount. Best, F.S. | |||||
| 2005 Acura TL drivers side rear wheel is locked up but not in reverse | 29Relevance | 4 years ago | Hero1234 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I drive a 2005 Acura TL with 110k miles, and I'm 95% sure that a wheel bearing is seized, I can do most automotive repairs myself. But wheel bearings is something I don't know much about. So the wheel locks up when I try to drive forward, but it will move just fine in reverse with no resistance. I figured if the bearing was seized the wheel wouldn't move in any direction, and I'm also confused because the wheel hasn't made any strange noises, indicating a problem before this happened. My question is, before I'm able to take a look at it, what else would cause the wheel to lock up? | |||||
| Can I drive with a bad wheel bearing | 29Relevance | 3 years ago | Izzy-02 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I have a 2005 scion xa that has a bad wheel bearing. Is it okay to drive with a bad wheel bearing? I just had one of my front ones replaced cause the wheel bearring was bad but it was wobbly too but my back one isn’t wobbling is just makes the humming noise. | |||||
| Bad wheel bearing | 29Relevance | 5 years ago | AHMED1919 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello everyone. I've been involved in an accident where I had to change both lower control arm, driver side spindle, driver side struts, one CV axle, one my mechanic was able to re install. Now when I drive around 40 to 65 miles there's a humming noise, my mechanic tested the left wheel bearing and told me it was ok, when I drive I noticed when I ever so slightly turn to the right the noise significantly goes away, is it possible that the right wheel bearing is bad ? Could be a CV axle? The car is a 2014 ford fusion front wheel drive.Thanks | |||||
| Fyi for my fellow mechanics. Mercedes issues after wheel bearing replacement. | 36Relevance | 3 years ago | Nissanrob88 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I replaced front wheels bearings in my 2003 e320 as they where making noise wt highway speeds only. They didn't make noise when spinning tire by hand or have any play at all. Upon investigating further and removing hub I found the front outer bearings started to bronze. The inner bearings looked like they had a dry condition and started to scuff. I had two sets of bearings one was national brand other was some Chinese brand ( don't know name). Left side was replaced with national and have no issues at all. After replacing the bearings and started to drive ca ... | |||||
| Center support bearing | 36Relevance | 5 years ago | Todd54 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Have a 98 ford f150 5.4 2wd 8ft bed. The center support bearing went out. I took off old one, measured the old bearing and it was 1.37" and replaced with same size. I put the new bearing on and tightened the nut for the spindle. Secured everything back into place. I started to drive it and now the bearing is making a high pitched noise like a rubbing and or grinding. So I took the driveshaft off and checked the bearing, everything looked good but as I spun it on the axle it was squeaking. I reinstalled the drive shaft and still continues to make that noise. I almost think the bearing is the wrong one and or it has no grease inside. What should I do? Thanks | |||||
| 2020 Camry Wheel bearing | 35Relevance | 2 years ago | Pasquale_97 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scotty, I have a 2020 Camry with 145,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer to get my brakes checked out because I purchased the lifetime brakes from Toyota ;but found out the driver wheel bearing needs to be replaced. I don’t hear any noise indicating the wheel bearing is going bad. The dealership claims that they put a stethoscope on the bearing and concluded it needs a new bearing. What is the general cost associated with that type of job, the dealer wants $1,000 to do the job and that’s outrageous. And also what is the typical lifespan of bearings on Camrys? I have stayed away from the dealer because they are nothing but crooks. I generally do all the maintenance on the car myself, what do you advise? | |||||