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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: 2010 Mazda 3 Coolant change only half of coolant changed | 26Relevance | 6 years ago | Figmund Sreud | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Most likely, what you two did is OK, … and everything will be just fine. That said, in general terms, … and I mean general, the best one can do is to have a good quality, long life, coolant in cooling system that is 50% concentrate and 50% distilled water - by volume. Mazda coolant is recommended by Mazda, of course, but good quality long life coolant by a major brand formulated for “Asian” vehicle is OK. (I’m assuming here that you used Mazda 50/50 premix!) Now, a general comment: It is recommended that one just use a 50/50 premixed coolant to fill a cooling system, … but remember, when one changes coolant - as you did, you use tap water to flush it out clean, first, … than you drain it all out! Problem, however, is that cooling system actually can not be drained completely - as you found out, and so there is a significant amount of tap water in there - trapped! And, now, if you just pour 50/50 mix to the radiator, you will end up diluting that 50/50 premixed coolant to something less than 50% antifreeze. Will that result in significant dilution? It’s tough to tell, … and so, I will just tell you what I do instead to assure a 50/50 concentration: I find out what is a total capacity of my cooling system, … than I divide that by 2. Next I pour that 1/2 of volume of full concentrate into the radiator, … than I top up the rest with distilled water. Mission accomplished, … sort of. Than, I warm up the car, … check level, … top up expansion tank with distilled/concentrate if needed. Done, … car overheat, corrosion protected, … coolant freezing protected down to ~ -35 deg. C. F.S. | |||||
| Waterless antifreeze | 17Relevance | 6 years ago | Mrmattdat | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty, Love the videos and been following you for awhile now. You've talked many times about how engines are lasting longer and longer, and the inevitable repairs can be a bit difficult (recent video on Mazda engines and the water pumps). I maintain my own cars (thank you dad!) and usually keep them for about 15 years. What are your thoughts about converting everyday cars to a waterless antifreeze like evans? Seems like converting could be a good move! | |||||
| Answer to: Should i top off coolant or do a flush? | 17Relevance | 2 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Since the coolant has already been in there for 8 years I would go ahead and change it with Toyota OEM coolant. (10 years is a bit optimistic.) You should be able to find Toyota coolant at sources other than your local dealer for a lower price. You don't want to mix coolants with differing chemistry. The color is just a dye that's added and you cannot depend on it to identify the coolant type. However if your coolant reservoir is almost empty that implies that you have a leak somewhere. You might want to pressure test your cooling system or use some UV dye to check on that. | |||||
| Answer to: Overheating and coolant leak | 25Relevance | 1 year ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If that upper oil pan has coolant passages in it then that would be where the coolant is most likely coming from. If it does not have coolant passages then the only way coolant would get to that area would be by mixing with the oil somehow. This could be due to head gasket, cracked head or block, or failed oil cooler if cooled by the engine coolant. (The latter is a common failure in BMWs, don't know if it applies to modern VWs. The only VWs I've worked on personally are the old air-cooled variety.) Another area where coolant can get into the oil would be failure of an internal water pump, but looking at that part for your car at rockauto.com it appears to be an external type driven by the fan belt. You can find a repair manual for your car in the link below. I could not find those details with a quick look but maybe you'll spot some detail(s) that I missed: | |||||
| Answer to: Should i top off coolant or do a flush? | 25Relevance | 2 years ago | Oskool | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Doing a drain and fill every 5 years or 50,000 miles is much easier than flushing the coolant system. The coolant type is listed in the owner's manual and you can probably buy it at the dealer for around the same price as Prestone. I prefer not to mix fluids, especially transmission fluid. The only non-OEM fluid I use is motor oil. I recently flushed the coolant system on a 2016 Jeep Patriot with 100,000 miles. It was labor intensive because it has two thermostats inside a plastic housing that I dare not take apart so I had to do repeat drain and fills with distilled water until the water ran clear. Then I had to idle the engine up to temperature so the thermostats opened to circulate the water through the engine block. At one point water boiled out of the radiator and burned me a little because I had the cap off when the thermostats opened and pure water has a lower boiling point than coolant. I don't recommend letting an engine get much over 180-190°F with pure water, even with the radiator cap on. Once the thermostats open and the water touches the hot engine block it explodes into steam very quickly and over pressurizes the cooling system. Blowing out seals and causing leaks. Luckily I had the radiator cap off to give the pressure somewhere to go, but in hind sight this is probably another reason to remove the thermostat when flushing a coolant system with pure water. In order to keep the engine temperature well below the boiling point of water. If I were to ever do a coolant flush again I would buy a vacuum purge and refill tool kit that hooks up to an air compressor and sucks all the coolant out of the engine block using vacuum. Then refills the entire system under vacuum so there's no air pockets anywhere. Moral of the story. Never run pure water in a coolant system, especially with a thermostat installed. The water will explode into steam and over pressurize the system in an instant. I've seen it happen first hand. | |||||
| Bubbling Coolant tank on 2009 Pontiac Montana | 25Relevance | 3 years ago | hwwawesomeman | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It might be complicated but I'll try to keep it as short as possible. My car is a 2009 Pontiac Montana with 210k km (131 k Miles). I use my car as a working van for delivery and it serves well until 2 weeks ago. It was a really hot afternoon and I saw some white steam coming out from the hood. I opened the hood and found coolant was spraying. I drove the car to a repair shop 2 minutes away and they diagnosed my radiator was leaking. I repaired my car with a new radiator, and it served for 3-4 days without any issues. On another hot afternoon, while I was driving, I heard some weird boiling noise from the hood. I pulled over, opened the hood, and found the coolant in the coolant tank was "boiling". The pressure was so high that even pushed the coolant out of the tank. I parked on the side of the road for a couple of hours then it returned to normal. On the next day, at about the same time, hot afternoon, the coolant in the tank was bubbling again. The next day, I took it to a retired mechanic's home and ask him to diagnose it, he said it could be caused by a blown gasket. He checked the fan and some other parts which I can't tell and he said they are all good. He did the gasket check with the blue liquid test kit, but the color did not change which shows there was no leaking in the head gasket. He said it may not be accurate and he feel it was due to a blown head gasket anyway. He put the head gasket sealer into the coolant and ask me to wait and see how it works. While the car was idling, we saw bubbles coming up from the bottom of the coolant tank constantly, about one small bubble per second, he said that was the sign of a bad gasket. 2 days later, while I was driving on another hot afternoon, it came up again. I went to another mechanic and asked for help, and he asked me a couple of questions, during the whole process, the car never leaked any liquid under, never had white smoke from the exhaust pipe, and never go overheated. The ac does not blow cold air due to no freon but blows hot air without any issue. He suggested changing to a new radiator cap and I did. Today, I drove the car for a whole day and the car survived even the hot afternoon. I almost believed it was just a simple problem of a leaking radiator cap. I heard the bubbling sound at 6 pm again. I opened a hood, the bubbles were back in the tank again. After about 5-10 minutes, the bubbles do not pop anymore and I drive it back. I checked the coolant tank a couple of times today and the constant bubbles never showed up in the tank, until the boiling bubbles at 6 pm. I really have no idea what's going on. Really need the car as a working tool and can't stand the car dropping me on the side of the road again and again and again. What could be the problem and what should I do? Should I change to another radiator cap and give it another try? Thanks a lot. | |||||
| Should i top off coolant or do a flush? | 17Relevance | 2 years ago | Framecube | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2017 toyota rav4 with 56,582. I noticed the coolant reservoir is almost empty and wondered if i should just top it off or do a flush? The manual says to replace the first time at 100k miles or 120 months. Also which coolant should I use? Do I need to get the toyota dealership coolant or can I use the Prestone platinum red fluid that says its good for toyotas which i already have and use that to top it off? I do not know if mixing different brands of coolant but it have the same type/color is okay to do. I would also like to know if coolant being that low normal? I haven't seen any signs of leaks. | |||||
| Add Coolant Alert | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | Grandpa Bill | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My car is a 2004 Cadillac Seville with the Northstar engine and approximately 96,000 miles. About 7 years ago, its "Add coolant" alert was displayed. My mechanic believed I shouldn't have to add coolant unless there was a leak in either my radiator or head gasket.Because he couldn't find a radiator leak, he suspected it was the head gasket.He topped the coolant off and put AlumaSeal in the radiator. He said AlumaSeal was the best product to use because my car has an aluminum block. I think we both felt that was a temporary solution.But, it worked magic! The "Add coolant" alert has never again displayed and the car has never overheated.If my car did indeed have a head gasket leak, I'm wondering if the AlumaSeal fixed it permanently - or, is it possible it never had a head gasket leak to begin with? What do you think?I'm considering a coolant fluid exchange but am concerned that may put me back at square one relative to whatever caused the "Add coolant" light to come on in 2015.I know, under normal circumstances, a coolant fluid exchange would be good for my car - but I'm afraid of upsetting the applecart and causing the "Add coolant" alert to reappear. What do you advise? | |||||
| Answer to: Mercedes C180 Low Coolant | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | DontKnowler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 1. As a Mercedes owner I can confirm that a weak battery can generate all sorts of electronic problems / errors in these cars, since the car is full of electronic modules of different sorts, and if a car battery cannot give them enough power for their startup (and a weak battery cannot, since at startup it will be giving all it can give to the starter), they cannot boot up properly and may be glitching till next startup or even till next full reset (or error codes erasure). This is however easy to check: buy or borrow or take a jumpstarter (in one of Mr. Kilmers videos he recommended some), and one of these mornings try starting the cold engine with the help of a jumpstarter. If the coolant lamp problem goes away, then it is definitely the weak battery. You may however still want to live with it as long, as it is cranking your car allright. The later you buy a new battery, the longer it will last 😉 2. But first of all make sure you really checked the coolant level in the expansion reservoir, and not somewhere else. You want to check it cold, and it has to be exactly at the "Cold Level" mark, while the car shall be standing strictly horizontally. Also make sure that what you see is really the coolant level, and not, say, a mark left on the inside walls of the reservoir by old dirty coolant which is no more there. Ive seen cars in which it was not that easy to tell... Since if what you see is a residue mark from old coolant, your real fresh coolant level could be anywhere - for example, at the very bottom of the reservoir and not visible at all. It might be even below the coolant lamp sensor when cold, causing the lamp to engage at startup, only getting higher as the coolant expands as the engine gets warm... Just a thought. | |||||
| Hyundai screwed me over with a bad engine and I'm not sure what to do | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Donjones95 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello all! I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 4 cylinder with 98k miles on it bought used with 40k miles in 2017. The engine was replaced due to a failed bearing, with what I was told would be a new engine, but instead was replaced with a remanufactured (salvaged and fixed) on 3/8/20. Within six days, the engine overheated and seized on the highway. The dealership says it was caused by a broken clamp on the coolant hose, which they fixed. Two months ago, the car overheated again. I checked coolant levels and they seemed to be empty. I refilled the coolant and everything was fine, until a month later. I was driving on the highway and the engine overheated again. After letting the car cool off, I checked the coolant levels, and there was a dry smell. I topped it off, and the coolant, which was green (green was the only coolant to ever go into the car) filled quickly to the top as orange. When I got home, I popped open the hood to find the orange gunk everywhere. Dealership said the overheating was caused by a hole in the throttle body coolant line, which they say had corrosion. They said I have a blown gasket, and after performing a leak down test found cylinder 1 leaking into the cooling system. Dealership says I need a new engine, hoses, heater core, throttle body and radiator. It's worth noting that the oil is clean, and isn't milky/white, no residue. There's no white smoke from the exhaust. The coolant is rusted, which is evident in the pictures. There's probably rust in the radiator. The engine also has valve clatter, which was always there from the time they put the new engine in. My car saavy friend informed me of that recently. Prior to this, I knew nothing about cars, and I am not very car literate. They're quoting me $10.5k, which is what the car is estimated to be worth. They told me a cheaper option would be a used engine with 18k miles on it for $9.2k. Warranty company denied the claim, stating that they don't cover rust or corrosion damage. Hyundai corporate basically said it isn't their problem because the Hyundai warranty runs out in a year, which was in March. I don't know what else to do. I don't have $10k to put into the car, and I still have $10k left on the loan. It's immensely frustrating because they replaced the engine and within a year had three engine failures. The reman engine is an OEM reman ordered from Hyundai themselves. I feel like they're responsible because I trusted them to give me a new, reliable engine, and instead they gave me a faulty engine that's put my life in danger twice. What do you suggest I do? Is there a way for possible remediation? I've attached pictures of the engine bay. The rust colored stuff is rusty coolant. | |||||
| 2013 Volkswagen Touareg V6 Lux 3.6 Coolant | 17Relevance | 2 years ago | Jerrymolomol660 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I have a 2013 Volkswagen Touareg v6 lux 3.6 engine. I have a coolant leak. As soon as I add coolant to my car, I see it leaking as I’m pouring it right under the car. While a little coolant stays in the radiator, I still have to add coolant to the car every 4-5 weeks whenever my coolant light comes on. What should I do or what may the problem be? | |||||
| Mitsubishi Outlander 1 coolant drain procedure | 17Relevance | 2 years ago | LordoftheFord | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, Can somebody tell me the proper way of replacing the coolant in a Mitsubishi Outlander mk1? I cant find any good tutorials except one where the guy lets coolant drain all over different parts. Also O heard there might be more points to drain coolant? Also I dont know what coolant to use. The manual is not helpful. There is green stuff in there now but some local dealers dont even use Mitsubishi OEM coolant. Mitsubishi Outlander mk1 2007 194.000km manual | |||||
| Answer to: White exhaust smoke at startup with oil loss | 24Relevance | 1 year ago | Abhi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's likely coolant or Engine oil burning inside the Chamber. Lets assume its coolant, coolant Quantity will deplete faster and you might want to check your coolant level often after driving your car for a good distance with the AC turned on.Coolant burns are most likely associated with bubbling of the coolant when you open your Radiator cap in colder engine you can see coolant boiling due the the loss of compression gasses from the head gasket. That said, you may also have a blown up head gasket and further see oil leaks in due time. coolant burns are hard to find in exhaust fumes, if the leak is slow, all you have to do is check coolant reservoir when cold. Secondly as I'm 90 percent assuming, lets say Its engine oil burning. Since you have replaced necessary valves. We can rule them out. On startup of a cold engine, what happens for a few seconds is. The piston and its rings are not fully expanded in colder temperatures and does to form a correct seal lock in colder Temperatures. And oil leaks from the piston rings and combust with the air fuel mixture, thus resulting in white smoke. As the engine chamber warms up gradually after few seconds, the piston, rings, sleeves, with heat, expand to their correct sizes and forms a tight seal, thereby after few seconds it does not let oil pass through them, there by not burning oil and white smoke has stopped. Engines are meant to be run hot, as their operating temperature, not cold. That's why its advised not to rev your engines right after startup as that's not the best temperature engine is to be run. It is most likely your piston rings and sleeves have given up in one or more cylinders. And it may need a rebuild. You can do a compression test professionally to determine the compression leak. You can drive your car until it passes emissions tests and does not emit much white smoke in traffic, you have to keep adding oil for every 500 miles. Over time, Your spark plugs also keep failing as unburnt oil deposits, clog the spark plugs. Causing misfires and tripping codes. White smoke is just visible on startup, but even later as you drive, engine still burns minute amounts of oil but you just cannot see them. When cold, put your finger in the tail pipe, it has to be dry like powder, if its greasy, your car is burning oil all the time. Heck if you are a cheap guy like me, you can just drive adding engine oil additives, you can add engine oil of thicker viscosity, you have to keep changing spark plugs. If the mechanic verdicts that you need a engine Overhaul, its upto you. When you anyways need a new engine why not experiment by using oil additives or Thicker engine oil. Again Not recommended. It's for curiosity. I remember adding myself a Truck engine oil to my Motorcycle which had same problem at startup. It still burned oil. ATS is for rubber seals, Fuel additives are for Injectors. If you want to experiment Additives, they have to be directly added to engine oil. Im not a Mechanic, it's my diagnosis as a enthusiast. I wonder why your Camry has given out such soon with less mileage. Better consult a Honest Mechanic like Scotty. | |||||
| Answer to: Honda Accord 2015 ex-L (dealership 74k miles) | 24Relevance | 6 years ago | Figmund Sreud | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| First, … your coolant should be filled up to the top of the radiator, … plus just about 1/2 way in the expansion tank - that white, opaque tank with Lo and Hi marks on it that is connected to a radiator filler neck with a rubber tubing. You should be checking coolant level in the expansion tank when your car is cold and again when your car is hot. Proper level is if level in the expansion tank is somewhat about above Lo mark when car is cold, … and somewhat below Hi mark when the car is hot. That’s your expansion volume - differential between high and low actual levels. Second, … best thing is to have good quality, long life, coolant in your system that is 50% concentrate and 50% distilled water - by volume. Honda coolant is recommended by Honda, of course, but good quality long life coolant by major brand formulated for “Asian” vehicle is OK. Third, … yes you can just use a 50/50 premixed coolant to fill your cooling system, … but remember, when you changing coolant, you most likely use tap water to flush it out clean, first, … than you use a distilled water to flush hard tap water out, … than you drain it all out! Problem, however, is that cooling system actually can not be drained completely, and so there is a significant amount of distilled water in there - trapped! And, now, if you pour 50/50 mix to the radiator, you will end up diluting that 50/50 premixed coolant to something less than 50% antifreeze. Will that be significant dilution? It’s tough to tell, … and so, I will just tell you what I do instead: I find out what is a total capacity of my cooling system, … than I divide that by 2. Next I pour that 1/2 of volume of full concentrate into the radiator, … than I top up the rest with distilled water. Mission accomplished, … sort of. Than, I warm up the car, … check level, … top up expansion tank with distilled water if needed. Done, … F.S. … btw, after a day or two of driving I check again system’s level, … and I check the concentration of the coolant with a hydrometer - a very cheap tester that you can pick up at any auto parts store! After all, … lowest temperature we recorded in my end of the woods is -34 deg. C, so I have to be damn sure that I have at least 50/50 mixture in there! | |||||
| washer fluid in the engine coolant reservoir | 17Relevance | 2 years ago | rbierman | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I accidentally added windshield wiper fluid in the engine coolant reservoir. I plan to: a) not start the engine b) pump out the coolant reservoir c) refill reservoir with proper coolant. Then can I drive the car as usual or should I get the coolant system flushed and refilled with proper coolant? | |||||