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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Piston Ring Sealer | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | FletchLives68 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Good day Scotty, In the past you have featured a product that helped reseal piston rings… I have a 2008 Toyota RAV4 with the oil burning 2.4L w/ 150,0000K due to poor piston ring engineering. Do you think the product would help curtail oil burning by helping the rings to seat properly? If so what is the name of the product? Do you know if anyone else has successfully used the product for this application? Do you think it would hurt the engine i.e. make it even worse to try it? Thanks in advance, Fletch | |||||
| Piston knock on new car | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Marcos Lopez | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I bought a new car from a dealership. It is a 2020 mitsubishi outlander sport, it have 16k miles run and since 5k miles it started to have a very loud piston knock. The manufacturers book says that it must run with 87octane and thats what im using. Shells gasoline, in the dealership they said that I must switch from regular 87 octane gasoline to premium that is 91, it can run with that but before I do so, can someone please help or give me an advice on how can I get rid of that hard annoying piston knock. Thanks! | |||||
| If the cover over the piston has rusted off, should I replace the shock? | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | sshpark | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| On my 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL (160K mi), right rear shock (still original) is currently missing the cover over the piston rod because I believe it has rotted out and fallen off (so I see the shiny piston). There is no leak on it. The van still rides fine and the tire is wearing normally. Should I not worry about it, or would this fail abruptly? This is my concern so that I don't take it on long trips any more. But if this shock won't fail all at once, then I'd like to keep riding until I see symptoms of problems. | |||||
| 2011 BMW 535i piston and rod was damaged 3 days after purchase | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | reaBrotherLeo | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| {black}:idontknow: Scotty. I purchased a 2011 BMW 535i. Three days after the purchase, a piston and rod was damaged. Pepboys, suggested replacing the engine. What do you think about replacing the damaged piston and rod, and do I need to think long term about replacing the engine? I just picked up a third party Car Warranty through Endurance. I hope it's worth the $100 a month. | |||||
| Answer to: The ultimate Toyota conventional or synthetic shoot out | 24Relevance | 2 years ago | Oskool | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I haven't heard of conventional oil having any benefits over synthetic oil. Synthetic oil maintains it's rated viscosity longer under high heat than conventional oil. I visualize viscosity by comparing maple syrup to water. The maple syrup is a thicker liquid than water, so the maple syrup has more viscosity. Viscosity is simply how easily a liquid flows. High viscosity liquids are thicker and flow more slowly compared to low viscosity liquids such as water. Since synthetic oil can maintain it's viscosity longer than conventional oil. The synthetic oil won ... | |||||
| Answer to: Recommended oil viscosity | 21Relevance | 1 year ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My F-150's 3.7L V6 requires 5W-20 oil, so I put it it the truck. My Mustang has the same engine. I've never had issues with either engine, and sometimes I spiritedly drive the Mustang. The truck has gone 168k miles and it has had no problems. 0W oil is a measure of its cold start performance. It has the viscosity-equivalent of 0-weight oil. At operating temperature, it transitions into a 20-weight oil. With modern engines, you want oil to be pumped up to the top of the engine as quick as possible. I have a piston from a 2010 Dodge Journey that had a 3.6L Pentastar V6. I can easily squeeze in the piston rings. It took 5W-20 oil. My old Pontiac Catalina has very stiff piston rings; I put 10W-40 in there, and I've run 20W-50 as well. The owner's manual forbids putting anything lighter weight than 5W-30; the oil film will break down when it gets to the piston rings. My Catalina also doesn't have overdrive. When I'm on the highway, the engine turns rapidly; your truck has overdrive, if not several overdrive gears, which means your truck is going to be under considerably less load going down the highway than my Pontiac. There are probably more variables than that, but that's the jist of it. Bottom line is, engineers designed your truck, if you do what it says in your owner's manual, you most likely won't have any problems. | |||||
| Answer to: Do not like turbochargers. | 21Relevance | 1 year ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Those engineers for the most part are really doing the best they can, all things considered. EPA rules and regulations don't follow the laws of physics 99% of the time. Most lawmakers were attorneys before going into politics, not engineers. EcoBoost engines, and really all ultra-modern, run-of-the-mill turbocharged engines are a massive compromise in order to appease the lawmakers. Most have absolutely no clue about how internal combustion engines work. My 2017 Mustang V6 takes 5W-20 oil, my wife's 2017 EcoBoost takes only slightly heavier oil, 5W-30. Her Mustang is designed to only occasionally use the turbocharger. The engines are great on paper, if you drive conservatively. Most people don't drive conservatively when they know they have turbos in their cars. I have a piston from the 3.6L Pentastar V6, which takes the same oil as my wife's Mustang; I can easily squeeze in the piston rings with my hand. The EcoBoost Mustang isn't designed to constantly use its turbocharger. Most engineers know that in order to put a turbocharger on an engine properly, the piston rings need to be a lot stiffer than in my wife's Mustang's engine. Stiff piston rings require heavier, more viscous oil which decreases gas mileage when the turbo isn't kicking in. That wastes gas, because the turbo is only really meant to accelerate the car, and spool down once the car is going at the driver's desired speed. Once it's at the desired speed and the turbo dies down, increased fluid friction noticeably decreases gas mileage. They're not meant for applications like the WWII-era P-47 Thunderbolt or P-38 Lightning, where simply cruising kicks in the turbocharger, and the turbo doesn't stop until you idle the engine. Those engines had viscous oil, because their engines were intended from the start to pretty much always use forced induction. | |||||
| Answer to: White exhaust smoke at startup with oil loss | 21Relevance | 1 year ago | Abhi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's likely Coolant or Engine oil burning inside the Chamber. Lets assume its coolant, Coolant Quantity will deplete faster and you might want to check your coolant level often after driving your car for a good distance with the AC turned on.Coolant burns are most likely associated with bubbling of the coolant when you open your Radiator cap in colder engine you can see coolant boiling due the the loss of compression gasses from the head gasket. That said, you may also have a blown up head gasket and further see oil leaks in due time. Coolant burns are hard to find in exhaust fumes, if the leak is slow, all you have to do is check coolant reservoir when cold. Secondly as I'm 90 percent assuming, lets say Its engine oil burning. Since you have replaced necessary valves. We can rule them out. On startup of a cold engine, what happens for a few seconds is. The piston and its rings are not fully expanded in colder temperatures and does to form a correct seal lock in colder Temperatures. And oil leaks from the piston rings and combust with the air fuel mixture, thus resulting in white smoke. As the engine chamber warms up gradually after few seconds, the piston, rings, sleeves, with heat, expand to their correct sizes and forms a tight seal, thereby after few seconds it does not let oil pass through them, there by not burning oil and white smoke has stopped. Engines are meant to be run hot, as their operating temperature, not cold. That's why its advised not to rev your engines right after startup as that's not the best temperature engine is to be run. It is most likely your piston rings and sleeves have given up in one or more cylinders. And it may need a rebuild. You can do a compression test professionally to determine the compression leak. You can drive your car until it passes emissions tests and does not emit much white smoke in traffic, you have to keep adding oil for every 500 miles. Over time, Your spark plugs also keep failing as unburnt oil deposits, clog the spark plugs. Causing misfires and tripping codes. White smoke is just visible on startup, but even later as you drive, engine still burns minute amounts of oil but you just cannot see them. When cold, put your finger in the tail pipe, it has to be dry like powder, if its greasy, your car is burning oil all the time. Heck if you are a cheap guy like me, you can just drive adding engine oil additives, you can add engine oil of thicker viscosity, you have to keep changing spark plugs. If the mechanic verdicts that you need a engine Overhaul, its upto you. When you anyways need a new engine why not experiment by using oil additives or Thicker engine oil. Again Not recommended. It's for curiosity. I remember adding myself a Truck engine oil to my Motorcycle which had same problem at startup. It still burned oil. ATS is for rubber seals, Fuel additives are for Injectors. If you want to experiment Additives, they have to be directly added to engine oil. Im not a Mechanic, it's my diagnosis as a enthusiast. I wonder why your Camry has given out such soon with less mileage. Better consult a Honest Mechanic like Scotty. | |||||
| Answer to: OEM Oil & Filter any better | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Oskool | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| According to independent oil filter testing. Toyota oil filters have some of the worst filtering performance. I'm not sure where Brand Ranks bought their Toyota oil filter from. If they bought it off Amazon there's a high probability it's a counterfeit part which would explain the oil filter's poor filtering performance. I like to buy premium oil filters. I'll spend an extra $5 on a premium oil filter that I change once a year. It seems silly not to. The latest oil filter I bought is the Purolator Boss. I might try out the Frame Ultra Synthetic oil filter next since it's available at Walmart and scored well in filtration testing. I also change the oil filter and motor oil every 5,000 miles or once a year, even though on the oil filter box it states the oil filter can go 20,000 miles. If I had a turbo charged vehicle I'd change them both at 3,000 miles due to turbo charged engines having high in-cylinder pressure which wears the piston rings out faster. The turbo charger spins at 20,000+ RPM which wears the motor oil out faster too. For my next oil change I'm switching to Valvoline Restore and Protect full synthetic. The motor oil appears to do a good job keeping the inside of engines clean. Which helps prevent piston rings from sticking. Recently I've learned about certain gas stations selling Top Tier fuel with detergent and fuel injector cleaning additives above the EPA minimum requirements. Toyota recommends running Top Tier fuel in their vehicles, as do other automotive manufacturers. It's important to note that Top Tier fuel is available in all octane levels, including Regular 87 octane. I've come to learn the fuel in a vehicle is just as important as the oil. If the fuel injectors become clogged, the fuel can't atomize and it won't burn. Which leads to what's called cylinder washdown. The unburnt fuel washes all the oil off the cylinder walls which causes the piston rings and cylinder walls to wear down. Once that happens blowby starts to occure, leading to a loss of power. Along with fuel and exhaust gases blowing by the piston rings and going into the oil pan and contaminating thr oil. Leads to accelerated engine wear. | |||||
| RE: 2008 Acura TSX 6MT Piston Slap on Cold Starts | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | rc_velocity | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It seems like bottom end noise. I believe it is piston slap as it goes away once the piston expands when the engine warms up. I made a video the other day, let me know what you think | |||||
| RE: Liquid Dripping from Front Center of Car | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | Engineer2002 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It was a clear color and thin, not a thick liquid. Coolant is pink or blue, steering fluid is yellow, transmission fluid is amber or brown, oil is brown or black, brake fluid is yellow, and no fuel smell. I put a piece of cardboard under the car to check further. | |||||
| Liquid Dripping from Front Center of Car | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | Engineer2002 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have an automatic transmission 2014 Honda Civic LX with 243000 miles. I noticed a liquid drop from the underside of the car on the front center. It was clear. I have not used the car for 18 hours. Could this still be condensation? We had condensation on the car from moisture this morning, but the outside of the car appears dry. Thanks. | |||||
| Answer to: Unknown liquid dripping underneath | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Just Lofi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Did you have the A/C running? The culprit of that clear liquid (I'm assuming odorless) is most likely from your A/C system just dripping water | |||||
| Answer to: Why does my car burn oil? 2004 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx V6 LT, 176K miles | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Oskool | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Oil burning is usually caused by not changing the engine oil every 5,000 miles or once a year for naturally aspirated engines. Every 3,000 miles for turbo charged engines. The Car Care Nut recommends changing the oil every 6 months instead of 12 months. Following the car manufacturer recommendations of 10,000 mile oil changes will almost certainly lead to oil burning. The service intervals car manufacturers recommend is designed to get the car through it's warranty period. Once the warranty expires and the car starts burning oil and the transmission starts slipping because the 'lifetime fluid' was never changed, they'll gladly sell you a new car. Here's a 3D video on how the lubricant system of an engine works. A video on how piston rings work. piston rings are supposed to spin and move freely inside the piston ring groove. Car Care Nut talking about his experience working at the Toyota dealership and showing how 10,000 mile oil changes cause piston rings to seize up in the groove. (12:40 timestamp) Royalty Auto showing what 10,000 mile oil changes did to a Land Rover with only 87,000 miles. | |||||
| Answer to: Ford misfires after compression test | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Cylinder 2 is worn. The wear should be within 10% of the highest value in your compression test, 140 PSI differs from 170 PSI by 18%. You can't correct this unless you rebuild the engine. Ensure your spark plugs are tight and there is no cross-threading. I had an issue with misfiring in my '79 Catalina a couple years ago. It would only misfire when cold. When it's warmed up, it was fine. I had changed the spark plugs 4 months prior and a couple had wiggled loose. They sealed when the engine got hot. That car has a V8, not an I3. Providing you used OEM coils and a turbo, a spark plug could have wiggled loose. That's the only explanation I can think of. | |||||