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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: water pump leaks coolant | 17Relevance | 3 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Engineers designed the cooling system to function with the right amount of coolant in the system. Too much coolant and it might explode when the coolant is under pressure (any time the engine is running, water is not compressible) too little, and it could overheat. Fill it to the cold mark if it's cold, if the engine is hot, fill it to the hot mark. | |||||
| Would At-205 work inside a cooling system (coolant resovoir)? | 17Relevance | 3 years ago | Vouthanack | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2012 Jeep Grand Cheerokee 3.6L Pentastar and believe the oil cooler will have leaking issues in the future (either oil or coolant leakage) based on Car only has 75K miles but 11 years old. Engine has only seen synthethic oil and coolant has been flushed once in 2020 with OEM spec coolant. Would it be possible to add AT-205 inside the coolant resovoir to prolong the oil cooler rubber seals to mitigate leakage issues? I will add AT-205 into engine oil compartment but unsure AT-205 will be effective or viable in the coolant. Thanks. -Vouth | |||||
| What to do with 8 year old green antifreeze in 1986 Mustang GT? | 24Relevance | 4 years ago | Pigpen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Good afternoon. Unfortunately life got away on me and I neglected to change/flush my coolant in my 1986 Mustang Gt 5.0 convertible. It is a 5spd. It was changed and flushed in 2014 with green fluid and since then it’s only been driven about 10000miles. I bought the car in 2011 with 48000miles and it now has 60000miles. A few years after the coolant was changed the heater core developed a leak and my mechanic at the time put in bars stop leak and that solved the issue. He also replaced the thermostat and pulled the radiator out and I think cleaned the outside of it. There are no signs of coolant loss. The coolant does not look dirty. It is still green. You can see accumulations of gunk around the radiator cap and just inside the radiator but it’s not rust or oil Color. I did a ph test on it with an aquarium tester for fish and it was the top of the scale at 8.5. The actual PH May be higher but I have not tested it yet with an automotive test. I tested the coolant with a multimeter with the black lead to ground and red in the fluid. Engine not running it showed .20 initially and then fell to .10 in a couple minutes. Engine running indicated .33 initially falling to .15 in a couple minutes. I ran the engine and checked for leaks around the water pump and there is none. Nothing out of the weep hole. It looks like the lifter covers are leaking some oil. I does not use oil but I don’t drive it much. I always change the oil with full synthetic every spring with STP high mileage oil treatment the entire time I’ve owned it and that stopped the oil leaks. I need to flush the cooling system and I’m wondering if I should install a heater core bypass so I can properly flush the cooling system first before changing the heater core. This way I won’t contaminate the new heater core with the flush and also possibly get fluid all over the passenger floor during a flush with the original damaged heater core? In this situation would the radiator/water pump, etc be damaged from not changing the coolant often enough? The car is 36 years old but most of the rad hoses seem to be in good condition. Reading the foxbody mustang forums guys recommend getting the inlet/outlet of the new heater core reninforced as this is where cracks form and also getting the new core with a flow restrictor as apparently the pressure of the fluid can cause it to crack. Would you replace the thermostat and radiator cap with oem just to be sure as well? Hopefully I could just do the flush and heater core replacement and everything else is ok. Most of all I’m concerned that I may have caused lasting damage due to corrosion, etc. Therefore would you recommend multiple low pressure flushes with distilled water and also uses a flush cleaner such as prestone total coolant flush? Is it worth replacing the coolant with a universal coolant that has a longer lifespan or just use the green fluid every year? My concern there a engine block drain plugs that can be hard to remove and there might me some green fluid left over and that’s bad for them to mix? I watch your videos every day and also I’ve watched every video for the last five years or so lol. Your incredibly knowledgeable and I thank you for your help. cheers, Gareth in Calgary, Alberta, Canada | |||||
| Coolant resvoir topped with wrong coolant | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | alpercem | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello everyone, I have a 2018 Hyundai accent diesel engine 1.6 crdi with a DCT transmission that I use as my daily car. 2 weeks ago and since the weather was starting to get very cold I decided to check my coolant levels and they were perfectly fine. The level was right between the LOW and MAX lines and the engine was cold; so it was perfect. Being the perfectionist person I am I had the urge to fill the resvoir till it reached the MAX line, and I went and bought a blue colored antifreeze that and IAT (in organic antifreeze) which usually is green and I put 0.2 Litres or equivalent to 0.2 quartz in a bottle and then added 0.2 quartz of distilled water on top and mixed them. So in total I had 0.4 quartz/liters of coolant in a bottle and I added them into the coolant resvoir of the car till it reached the max. When I did this I obviously did know what the original coolant that was present in my hyundai was but later on I learned that Hyundai's come with a blue HOAT antifreeze from the factory. Going on the internet I got shocked when I found that mixing different types of coolants can be catastrophic and destroy the engine aswell. I am a bit worried and confused now on what I should do. Since I added the coolant I have driven 400 miles on the car and everything seem to be perfect and as it is. Do you reckon that topping a small amount such as 0.2 liters/quartz of IAT coolant might do any damage to the car? In the car manual, the recommendation is broad and useless; it just says that we should use any ethylene Glycol based antifreeze without specifying anything else. My car has 72,000 miles on the clock and I really dont want to flush the system since I feel its still very early for that. Any advises? Thanks in advance | |||||
| Answer to: Subaru legacy 2009 coolant color | 17Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yes, as I said the cooling system needs to be completely flushed of the old coolant if you change coolant chemistry. | |||||
| Low Antifreeze/Coolant | 17Relevance | 4 years ago | js110500 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scotty, I have a 2014 Honda CR-V with about 90000 km. Yesterday, I checked the coolant reservoir tank, and it was very very low, and almost empty. I also checked the radiator cap and the coolant level was not at the top. Note I do not know which type of coolant is in my car. Can I add OEM brand Honda coolant bought from the local parts store into the reservoir tank? I am planning to flush the coolant in 4 months. Thank you | |||||
| Coolant is Erupting | 17Relevance | 4 years ago | SlickSuburbans | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty: I replaced the thermostat, upper and lower radiator hoses, coolant sensor, and all heater hoses on my 2006 5.3 L 1500 Chevy Suburban. When adding the coolant (Dex-cool) back to proper levels and letting the engine idle for long periods the coolant erupts right back out of the overflow tank. The first time I thought it was normal (lots of air bubbles) and then after regulating the coolant level back to normal it erupted coolant again - so my question is: What is going on here? Could it be the water pump? It has never done this before, I just replaced all of the aforementioned since I know my Suburban is a 2006. What should I do so I don't overheat and ruin my newer engine? | |||||
| 2010 Mazda 3 Coolant change only half of coolant changed | 24Relevance | 6 years ago | alexssali97 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2010 Mazda 3 with 88k miles that I purchased used recently. Looked like it had the original FL22 coolant still in it. My dad and I changed the coolant by draining the radiator and flushing the engine block with water. However only 4 L of the total 8 L capacity drained out. We had forgotten to turn the heater on so I assumed the rest of the coolant was still in the heater core. We filled the rest back with Mazda specific FL22 coolant (as instructed in manual). So far engine runs fine and hasn’t showed signs of overheating. Is there anything to be concerned with? coolant color is a darkish green in comparison with new FL22 coolant which is a lighter green. | |||||
| Answer to: Should I use antifreeze in the desert | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Exactly. Which is why you don't need distilled water if you don't have hard water. And how many gallons of it do you have to boil before you start to see anything? Do you add antifreeze to your food? Exactly like I said ... 6C. When you consider than an uncooled engine can reach hundreds (possibly darn near 1,000) of degrees ... it doesn't make a lick of difference! Antifreeze is put there for freeze protection. It's in the name. Most of the boiling point elevation comes from having a pressurized system. An increase of a mere 1 atmosphere of pressure increases the boiling point of coolant by 29C. evans is a snake oil merchant. No, you are not. Or common sense it seems. No, it does not contain elemental chlorine gas. Municipal water contains trace amounts (on the order of one part per million) of hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ions. which break down quickly. It reacts quickly with other substances to form benign compounds which is why it's used. And more commonly now, chloramine is used. A different compound altogether. The ignorance in this statement is mind boggling. Please turn off the internet, and go pour some tap water into some aluminum foil, and let me know what you see. I think you'll be waiting a very long time. Heck you know what , why don't you make it more exciting and increase the chlorine concentration 1,000,000x and pour some hot bleach into it. That's nice but the surfaces your coolant comes in contact with are aluminum oxide. And you omitted certain important details: " heated to glowing red and reacted with chlorine gas " The miniscule quantity chlorine compounds in tap water would be completely neutralized by the metals in your engine in a matter of hours, if not minutes (just like in your body, or even just left sitting on a table). When you add the silicates or whatever additives your antifreeze contains, that time is probably reduced to milliseconds. The total amount of chlorine compared to the mass of aluminum is like a grain of sand in a desert. Same with the inhibitors in the antifreeze. It is 100% safe to use tap water that is low in mineral content. I, and many other people, can personally attest to this. This is just bogus scaremongering disseminated with all the other armchair internet "knowledge" | |||||
| 2003 Volkswagen Golf coolant disappears | 17Relevance | 4 years ago | Doitfordale | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2003 vw golf 2.0L. I just had the water pump replaced and after a few days. To coolant warning light came on. The coolant was low. I topped it off. A few days later it happend again. This time I left it for a few more days. When I checked the resivoir it was empty. But it was not overheating I squeezed one of the coolant lines and heard coolant in it. I topped it back off. I am refilling my coolant every few days still. Could this be the head gasket? | |||||
| Answer to: 02 Camry lossing coolant | 17Relevance | 5 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| What do you mean about the 3 head bolts losing torque? First, you must discern whether the system is leaking coolant or burning coolant. If it is leaking, you will see fluid under the car. If it is burning coolant, you won't. If it is leaking coolant, it could be the radiator itself, the hoses, heater core or the water pump itself. If it is burning coolant, it is a compromised head gasket. | |||||
| Answer to: Should I use antifreeze in the desert | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I'm very aware thank you, so there's no need to repeat yourself. It is why I keep saying "It is 100% safe to use tap water that is low in mineral content." You keep insisting to "use only distilled water" that's more than your cooling system capacity ... every month. Do you put that kind of volume of water through your cooling system? Having lived where tap water comes from the ground, I am quite familiar with the mineral film. Again, this is where the inhibitors in the antifreeze come in. And even if they weren't there..... I think the amount of residue over the life of a vehicle would be pretty negligible anyway. modern coolant is good for about 5 years, so over the period of 10 years, you put about 10L of water in your car. , or what your kettle sees in less than a month. an engine will tolerate 220F just fine. I've even seen 250. It is the water that is doing the cooling. If you live in the desert, you increase the water proportion so that it can carry away more heat. And if the cooling system works properly, it shouldn't get anywhere near the boiling point. evans sells products by marketing bogus claims about their snake oil coolant Again, chlorine is very unstable, and does not last any significant amount of time for the purposes of this topic. "Chlorine is very unstable and reacts with a variety ofchemicals and water when it is released intothe environment." so how is that Al foil experiment going? but also(strangely enough) the min. limits for it. not strange at all. There is a threshold for proper sanitation Yup, I do know we obtain some dietary minerals from water. I don't know what it has to do with cooling systems. You have a gift for overstatement | |||||
| Coolant in oil | 17Relevance | 5 years ago | Gabriel Joseph | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 1994 dodge Dakota slt 318/5.2 I noticed there being coolant in the oil but it never smoked or had a smell didn't make any noticable difference so I didn't know till I checked the coolant and it was low and the oil had coolant in it so I assume it was a headgasket because if the cylinder was cracked I assume it would smoke because the coolant in the combustion chamber I already ordered a complete gasket set for the whole engine is there anything I should check or look at when I have it apart that may have been damaged from the coolant in the oil | |||||
| Lotus Excel | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | Crowman | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... Toyota succumbed to the dreaded rust. Is it worth having the floor and the chassis painted to protect them or should I leave well alone? If I should paint them what would you recommend? Question 2: I am considering changing the coolant for evans Waterless coolant, is that a good idea? if not what would you suggest? PS. I watch your videos all the time, wish we had the weather and supplies you have in the US, we have rain, leaves and more rain in England. Thank you. Donald Barham | |||||
| Coolant disappearing… | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Tuimoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty. I got a problem and every mechanic I talk to say they have no idea what’s going on and have never heard of it before. Maybe you have heard of it? So I got a 2017 Camaro 2.0 and a couple months back it blowing out heavy white smoke and I was losing coolant. So I figured it was a blown head gasket but there was no coolant in the oil. I got the head gasket replaced and there were no cracks in the heads and it ran fine until coolant was added and it started smoking again. In the process they found there was a crack in my turbo and replaced the turbo hoping maybe that was the issue but it wasn’t. We later found out that I had a crack in the exhaust manifold so that was replaced. It ran fine until coolant was added and it started smoking again. They said they have no clue what it is now. I try to add coolant to the reservoir but the car just drinks it and I have no clue where the coolant is going. There are no visible leaks under the car. The car doesn’t hold coolant at all. Have you ever heard of that before? Or have any suggestions about it? | |||||