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Search result for: synthetic oil
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Did I hurt my 1993 Accord with 132,325 miles by accidently using a synthetic blend oil? | 26Relevance | 4 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| That is because synthetic oil is superior in every way, and there's no reason to go back. synthetic oil has hit the mainstream and every manufacturer now recommends it. It is FULLY backwards compatible. Mass manufacturing has ramped up, and economy of scale has brought synthetic prices down to what conventional would be anyway. Just keep using what Amazon sends you. I'm sure your car will be fine. Very interesting. Please tell us more. Are they renting it from you or do you have some kind of agreement, or did you put it up for sale? Are customers taking it ... | |||||
| Answer to: Hi Scotty, engine oil light comes on at low rpm changed the pressure switch then also not going ..then changed the oil pump still the same ..earlier below 900 to 950 is was blinking after running 5 km now after changing oil pump below 1500... | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | CarlJason98 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Each component in the engine contributes to the combustion process. When these components fail, the oil may unintentionally enter the combustion chamber and get burned, resulting in a drop in the engine oil level and pressure. This is easily recognized as it often produces a blue smoke that exits through the tailpipe. So if I am correct start with basic try changing filters because they play a key role in maintaining oil pressure. If the filter becomes clogged, it will increase the pressure and reduce the flow. A pressure relief valve on the oil filter prevents the pressure from getting too high. If it’s damaged, it won’t be able to do its job, allowing engine oil to flow more easily, reducing pressure. And I will not be surprised since it is a chev. Since oil moves throughout the engine through the crankshaft bearing and the camshaft bearings. If the area has broadened because of worn parts, oil flows too easily reducing oil pressure. The oil pump must force oil through narrow areas under bearings and passageways. These are the areas that build pressure in the system because they control the rate of flow. The faster the engine moves, the higher the flow rate and pressure. So here is what you can do If the oil light flickers on and off while the vehicle is stopped or at an idle, there may be a problem with the oil sensor or the pressure is too low. At the very least, the engine should have 5 PSI when not moving. If the PSI is less than 5, this will trigger the oil light and cause it to flicker off and on. If the light flickers while the vehicle is in motion, the oil levels may be too low. Check the oil level and add motor oil to the vehicle, if needed, and continue to monitor the light. If the oil was indeed low, the light should turn off. If not, it may be that the engine bearings are worn. This is an unfavorable situation as it may cause the engine oil to release oil from where it was once contained. A technician will need to inspect and repair it immediately. | |||||
| Using 5w-30 synthetic for older minivan | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | FJCruiser2014 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My parents have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country minivan with 129,000 miles on it. They have always used conventional 5w-30 (owners manual states 5w-30 is the right oil for the car). With synthetic oil becoming more prevalent they were thinking of switching to synthetic but also worried this might cause oil leaks and would not be a good choice for an older engine. Is this a valid concern or would switching to synthetic be okay? | |||||
| could more frequent oil changes or synthetic oil have extended my engine life past 310K? | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | RedShirt | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I had a 1999 Toyota Avalon - w/ 310,000 miles - always changed oil/filter @ 5,000-mile interval w/ regular oil - not synthetic - at 310K - had poor cylinder compression - rings - would more oil changes extended the engine life some? - or synthetic oil? - just wondering. | |||||
| RE: Synthetic vs conventional on first oil change? | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | BruceREE | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Think of synthetic blend as more of a bar and full synthetic is one step higher. You can continue to use blend if you want, but full synthetic is the better oil. | |||||
| Answer to: Full Synthetic Vs High Mileage Full Synthetic Oil | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Dad2LM2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| High mileage oil contains additives that cause slight swelling of the seals. The idea is that if you have old/worn seals that leak slightly, the high mileage oil can reduce leakage as a stop-gap measure. If anything the high mileage oil should reduce not increase leakage. However, if the additives do something good they can do something bad. I’d probably go back to regular synthetic, but I think it probably won’t make much difference either way. If you have leaks, sooner or later you’ll need to correct them. good luck! | |||||
| Switching from mineral based A/T fluid to Synthetic A/T fluid? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | Carlos888 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... Alterra (aka MU-7) diesel, it has about 70,000 miles on the clock. I have changed its a/t fluid every 15 to 20k miles consistently. Its transmission requires Dexron III fluid. I would like to change from the mineral based a/t fluid to a synthetic fluid. A friend of mine whose auto advice I respect, said it's best to change the transmission filter and change the fluid from a mineral based to a synthetic, run it for a few thousand miles, and then change the fluid again using synthetic, for changing from mineral to synthetic based will cause any gunk or ... | |||||
| Answer to: 2002 Lexus RX300~World Class Inspection at Dealership.They forgot to ADD OIL? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | StuckNtrfk | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I wrote to everyone about my 2002 RX300 seemingly being left without oil during a service visit. This was my vehicle on Monday morning before the dealership towed it away with a flatbed. On Saturday morning before a road trip I took the car to the local oil shop due to a persistent odd sound. They advised the unit was without oil. Today they sent me an e-mail saying THIS...... Hello Mr. Bedell, Per our earlier conversation and the voicemail you left for me I am emailing you a description of what we have found on the vehicle after it was towed to our facility. We found a fresh oil change performed on the vehicle according to the sticker that the shop you used put on the windshield as a reminder to you for when it is due for service again as well as a new oil filter and the oil level was full. We did put it in the air to check for any oil leaks and did not see any signs of any major oil leaks. It has been 3445 miles since we performed an oil change on the vehicle at our facility and if the vehicle did not get filled with oil at that time the engine would have seized up well before your facility you took it to pulled the dipstick and stated that it is bone dry and there is no oil in there. It is normal for engines to consume some oil and especially as they age and the miles get up there that consumption may even increase. Our shop foreman inspected the car and did pull the spark plugs to check for signs of oil consumption, Cylinder#2 did shows of oil consumption as that will cause the tip of the spark plug to begin to turn black from the oil that is burning. The measurement on the dipstick does not mean that there is no oil in the vehicle it typically means you need to add a qt, wait five minutes and recheck the dipstick to see if you now have oil registering on the dipstick. As far as the oil on the pan that the shop showed you, the oil filter is located just behind the oil pan and when that comes off to install a new one it can get a bit messy and probably was not cleaned up the best from the oil change and I would imagine that is what they were showing you Sir. Hopefully this helps with the explanation of our earlier conversation and we did not experience any knocking from the engine at all. I look forward to you coming in tomorrow so that the 3 of us can cold start the vehicle together to see if there is any at that time, and then we will put it up in the air to show you that we do not see any signs of major oil leaking and as you stated there is nothing on your driveway either except for a few old spots. Have a great evening and again we are available anytime tomorrow between 8 and 4 please let me know when we may expect to see you. Best Regards, Idris Sherrod Service Manager WHAT SHOULD I DO? | |||||
| How do I change oil on high milege vehicle | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | ardye88 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My car has 216000 miles and going up fast since I drive Uber in it. I have 3 questions. Engine oil that I use is 0W-20 synthetic, 1. Should I use the Lucas synthetic oil at every oil change (tho it does not burn oil/leak oil) 2. At 5000 miles the engine oil is still clean (synthetic 0w-20) and looks brand new. although you highly recommend to change oil at 5000 I want to push it to 10000 miles. Should I with the (lucas) additive or without it? 3. Or should I just do 5000 mile oil change with 5w-30 regular oil which is heavier? (since the mi ... | |||||
| Problems switching from conventional to synthetic blend oil for 1995 Toyota Avalon? | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | RandallMae | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scotty, My old-as-the-hills but runs-like-a-clock '95 Toyota Avalon with 195,000 miles has always had conventional oil but I'm having a hard time finding a garage in my area that has conventional oil, just synthetic blend. The valve cover gaskets leak a tiny tiny amount and there's some oil buildup on the bottom of the engine but no oil ever drips to the ground from the engine anywhere. If I switch to synthetic blend could it make valve cover or other slight leaks worse, enough for oil to drip to the floor? Thanks! | |||||
| Answer to: Best Synthetic Oil | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | James St. Clair | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Amsoil, hands down. But that’s a 100% synthetic oil. But if you change your oil often enough, probably any off the shelf full synthetic oil and a decent oil filter will be good enough. Try to find a sale on oil. | |||||
| best oil type for my 2006 toyota corolla ce | 23Relevance | 5 years ago | zebra1s | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| yes i was wondering what would be the best oil type for my 2006 Toyota corolla ce , the reason i ask my oil cap says 5w30 but doesn't say to use synthetic oil or conventional oil , same with my cars owners manual it doesn't say to use conventional or synthetic just says to use 5w30 oil , and same with alldatadiy it doesn't say to use conventional or synthetic just says to use 5w30 oil and that's it , right now there's conventional oil in my Toyota corolla but not sure that's the oem type , ive been thinking of trying full synthetic but worried about it ca ... | |||||
| Answer to: Synthetic oils... | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| please use the search Scotty also has videos about it | |||||
| conventional vs synthetic blend | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | marksamis7 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I always do my own oil changes and use conventional oil. However, my local shop now only carries synthetic blend. I asked the guys if that was OK to use and they kinda shrugged it off and said 'yea it's fine'. I went ahead and did it because there wasn't another option, just went through another 5K on the car with no problems, and I just went to the local store to try and get back to conventional but they said they're only going to carry the synthetic blend. So, I went ahead and did it again, but it's been on my mind lately.... what is the difference and am ... | |||||
| New 0W20 oil for BMW 428i Turbo GDI | 25Relevance | 6 years ago | Amrathe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... of 5W30 full synthetic. I have read from others that even though BMW has now included the new 0W20 oil as the preferred oil weight, a lot of people believe this is just a ploy to have BMW reach CAFE goals with their GDI engines for economy use, and sacrifice reliability issues by dropping the 5W30 LL-01 based synthetic oil. It kinda makes sense as the heavier oil would protect and cool the engine more than the thinner weight. But maybe there is some manufactured magic to this oil that allows a thinner weight to be used in a high compression, turbo'd four ba ... | |||||