so i wrecked my car in the snow. it’s the passenger side that’s pushed in so the air box is broken. when it first happened everything was ok but i go to hit the gas and then it goes full throttle so i turn it off. it now wont come out of park but as soon as i start it up it revs all the way up if i leave it on it will redline
Check operation of your throttle body and IAC valve. You can find a repair manual for your car here:
@chucktobias but how can i find out why it won’t come out of park? does it revving up like that have anything to do with it possibly?
Check your shift linkage and, if so equipped, the shift interlock.
@chucktobias so i unplugged the icu valve went to start it up and it still immediately had full throttle again. my throttle cable is fine. but i haven’t messed with the throttle body. should i try replacing it?
@chucktobias i’m not sure if it really matters or can help figure out what’s wrong but it but the car has 162k miles on it. it was about 10° outside, when this happened i’m stuck kinda like halfway in a ditch. so i go to put it into reverse to try to get it unstuck it wasn’t working so i hit the gas a little harder. this is the point where rhe throttle got stuck wide open. i have it pulled over to my house and ive looked through everything i can see air related. theres no vacuum leaks that j can see. im thinking i would try to take out the throttle body and clean it? really not sure
so i unplugged the icu valve went to start it up and it still immediately had full throttle again.
Just unplugging the connector is not a valid test. The valve could be stuck open.
i haven’t messed with the throttle body. should i try replacing it?
Don't replace parts without troubleshooting first to see if they're bad. Blindly replacement parts rarely if ever produces a good result.
Somewhere you have a condition mimicking wide-open throttle. Assuming that your throttle body is actually closing as it should (is it?) you have unmetered air bypassing the throttle and entering the intake, causing the engine to race.
theres no vacuum leaks that j can see.
You can't necessarily see vacuum leaks. You need to test for them.
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@chucktobias i really don’t know how to test the icu valve or the throttle body. i already bought a new icu valve
There are testing instructions in the repair manual that I linked previously. An internet search will quickly bring up more information. If you can return the new valve (is it OEM?) don't install it until you test the old one. As I said, just throwing parts at the problem is not likely to help, you'll just be wasting money. Diagnose first, replace parts only if they test bad.
i wrecked my car in the snow
Do you have collision coverage? If not, you need it. You could be looking at thousands in repairs.
@imperator That kind of insurance coverage is not likely on a nearly 30-year-old Accord. I don't have it on my decades-old beaters, it just doesn't make sense. A scraped fender would be enough for insurance to just total the car and pay you off for few hundred dollars.
@imperator lmao yeah thank you for this comment. no need for that on a car that isn’t worth much
enough for insurance to just total the car
insurance here pays you market price. KBB values it at around $1800.
Looking at my local craiglist listings ....
1992 - 150k mi - 2,000 CAD
1994 - 100k mi - 7,500 CAD
In his shoes, I might be inclined to take the payout. His car is undriveable. The mechanic is easily going to cost much, much more than that.
@imperator Here insurance companies go by book value and no way would they pay out thousands of dollars to repair a 30-year-old car or give you that kind of money when they declare it a total loss.
Years ago when I had a 25-year-old car totalled by someone who believed a red light didn't apply to him, his insurance company would not budge a penny over $500 even after a lawyer friend got involved.
On an old car you'd quickly pay out more in premiums for collision insurance than you would ever get back.