Other than the head gasket, any independent shop with a trained monkey can do most of that for half of what the dealer is quoting you.  Besides, the lights are certainly DIY, as is the brakes (and possibly the radiator, depending on how many YouTube videos you’ve watched this week 😉 ).

But speaking of the head gasket, that needs a second opinion from an independent Asian car specialist pronto.  No point in doing the rest if the car has a fatal flaw.  Get that sorted before you worry about the rest. 

Welcome new member!

Do yourself a favor, stay away from dealers and find a good local mechanic for your maintenance and repair needs. (Not a chain shop either!) They are nicknamed "stealerships" for a reason.

Even if some of those repairs might be needed the quoted prices are outrageous. (Over $150 for two light bulbs!!) Remember - the dealership service writers get a commission for "servicing" you!

From experience, it seems that dealers exaggerate things. They also exaggerate their prices. 

For next time, best thing* to do when taking it to the dealer, is always get a second independent opinion on the work they are suggesting. Or check it out with your own eyes. 

My shady dealership story is taking my car in for a warranty repair, and I asked them to take a look at why my radiator fan was running constantly. Service person said the fan needed to be replaced which was $$$$$$$. But the actual problem (which I knew beforehand) was the thermostat. Which isn’t as expensive. I don’t trust dealers. 

*Technically the best thing to do is not to go to the dealer, but sometimes we happen to end up there. 

I wouldn't believe a word they say. $2k for a radiator is crazy price, I have they gave you a major discount.

Things like when they say the rotors need resurfacing, you can check that real quick, just feel the surface of the rotors to see if they are smooth or not. You can also likely shine a light and see if the pads need replacing.

As others have said, best thing to do is get out of that dealership, and don't go back to one.

I do sometimes order parts from dealerships, but that is about it.

Posted by: @aginelo

Here’s another funny - the dealer called me back to be sure I didn’t want to do the radiator because it is really bad can over heat and blow up

Those guys would rip off their own grandmothers to make a buck. If you're not overheating and the radiator is not leaking it doesn't need to be replaced. Even if it is starting to leak, their quote of nearly $2000 is insane. Check out the actual price of replacement radiators for that thing:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lexus,2010,rx350,3.5l+v6,1444184,cooling+system,radiator,2172?

A name-brand Denso radiator for your Lexus is under $200, aftermarket even less. Even allowing for a reasonable shop markup plus maybe a couple of hours labor what those pirates want to charge you is clearly a ripoff.

If they call again tell them that WE said they should get stuffed.

Here’s another funny - the dealer called me back to be sure I didn’t want to do the radiator because it is really bad can over heat and blow up {black}:bruise:  

Posted by: @aginelo

Tie Rod Front Inner and Left Outer -parts and labor $$451.99
Control Arm Front Left and Front Right Lower - parts & labor $1,769.35
Struts Front Left and Right coil and assemble parts labor-$1,246.77
Road Test Alignment -$119.00 

Oil Leak somewhere needs to be cleaned, checked with DYE with light $190.93

Well that's a lot better than $13K! Though still quite expensive. Whether you get that all done depends on how pressing the issues are, are those front end parts really worn out.

If there's play in tie rod ends that should certainly be fixed. Unless the struts are leaking or the car is bouncing badly on the road no need to do the struts just yet.

Whether the control arms should be done depends on condition of the bushings and ball joints - are you getting any clunking noises or feel any looseness?

Oil leak - how bad is it? A little seepage can be ignored and addressed later if and when it gets worse.

I'd want them to show me the worn parts, demonstrate that they are loose and need replacement.

I’m glad you were able to find an independent mechanic. 

Ok that rockauto.com website has EVERYTHING that seems at great prices wow..\ thank you thank you ALL for your feedback and answers!

the radiator runs great! but now I am starting to think after being here on this site that I can keep shopping for the best prices, The Independent has a big shop that seems professional but now states the car needs stuff which is not pressing but should be all done at once.

I also looked at his estimates and shook my head. OMG! I will have to take my time as the labor seems very high, and the markup on the part seems too high as well. I am ok paying for a markup when reasonable to get it going But once you know some decent prices it really stings!

Tie Rod Front Inner and Left Outer -parts and labor $$451.99
Control Arm Front Left and Front Right Lower - parts & labor $1,769.35
Struts Front Left and Right coil and assemble parts labor-$1,246.77
Road Test Alignment -$119.00 

Oil Leak somewhere needs to be cleaned, checked with DYE with light $190.93

Total $3,778.04 -

I almost thought it may nit be bad since the car is a 2010 yet i may be able to get all of this work for half the cost is that right? 

Thank you all again and GOD SPEED to all of you!

Hello Chuck,

YES for sure $$$ is lot better amount compared to stealership,

Actually, the struts are not that bad I hear them more than feel it slightly over bumps they just suggested getting it all done together once there yet i have to pay for it lol.

I just drove the car and it is such a good freaking CLEAN car!

What I liked about this independent shop besides being close to my house, >>>they sent me the photos and a detailed breakdown of everything they found wrong the huge LEXUS dealer did NOT do that.

Yes on the report it was the only RED-flagged to get the tie rod and the lower control arm was shown with wear.

>The left tie rod end is loose and the lower control arm's bushings crack <

Regarding the oil leak, I took a flashlight and looked all over the top, and did not see any leaks it could have been when the dealer changed the oil, the mechanic said that is not as pressing and they would just need to wash the area and run that dye.

I am in SO cal and he felt I could drive back and forth to Los Angeles it would be ok.

I went back through the report and it was detailed with other minor things like copper in the brakes getting flushed, oxidation on headlights, etc.  

Do you think if I purchased the parts myself and found another independent mechanic they could change out all of these for a lower amount or should i save up a little more and just get er DONE? it seems the car would be basically be in great shape for another easy 50k miles or more hopefully. thank you!

What shop did you take it to?

I am curious, when you went to the independent shop to have them check things, did you tell them what the dealership found?

What information did you give them?