A bad Solenoid,  The conductor plate is bad or you don't have proper fluid flow for that gear in the valve body.Overlap regulator valve bushings pressure regulator valve, lube pressure regulator valve, bushing, spring and sleeve, control pressure regulator valve spring ,shift pressure valve spring. Any one of these components can be bad or worn. It can also be a damaged wire for the transmission. I really feel it's your conductor plate. 

I overlooked something you types and forgot to include something . I don't think your transmission is shot. You should only use Honda fluids never use anything else at all. Alot of these fluids aren't backwards or forward compatible and can cause seriously damage.. if your throwing codes for the pressure control I would start there. Check all the wiring and connections. If everything checks out try replacing the unit.  I missed the part about the codes and pressure unit. So forget about the conductor plate and valve body components and check that out first. 

My Mercedes used to jerk at 2 to 10 mph. It would happen when slow rolling or barely on throttle. It was the 13 pin adapter for transmission. The gasket had a small crack and fluid started leaking into the adapter causing small issues like this. My neighbors had the same issue theres was a pedal position sensor.

Throttle body and butterfly are dirty. That can cause that to happen.

Lastly a faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor. Either one could have a lag or is just starting to have issues.

I know you have codes for valve body/solenoids but try cleaning your throttle body and butterfly. Also try a throttle reset. I'll try to find the proper procedure for you. Also try testing the throttle body sensor. Simple hook up your scan tool go to live data look for any for amount throttle is open and graph it. Start driving around and watch your percentages/voltage. Your looking for any lag or drop off. You want to test the entire power band but don't have to go to 100% getting it up to 75 to 80% should be fine. Also graph your mass air flow. In idle it should be the same as liter of engine plus or minus a small amount. Graph it and look for any drop off or lag.

A dirty transmission harness, non OEM/ non factory OEM  conductor or defective one, bad solenoid or transmission control module ect can still be the cause , but look into the maf, throttle body, pedal position sensor.  You have nothing to lose at this point.

Crack and cam position sensor, map, O2 pretty much anything that deals with fuel, air spark can cause this. I would start looking at the things I listed. Maf,pedal position sensor, throttle position,dirty throttle body, butterfly 

1. THROTTLE RELEARN, TRANSMISSION SHIFT RELEARN 
2. Turn key to position II. If your Acura has a START/STOP button, press it twice without depressing the brake pedal. DO NOT START THE ENGINE. Turn off the lights and radio.
3. Your Acura dash lights should be on at this point. Within 5 seconds of turning on the ignition, press the gas pedal, and keep it pressed for 30 seconds
4. Turn the car off and restart it. There will be no confirmation or beep, but the ECU and transmission have been reset. If unsure, repeat the procedure one more time.
5. Drive your Acura usually. This procedure may not work on all Acuras. 
6. HERE IS ANOTHER METHOD IF FIRST ONE DOESN'T WORK.
7. Put car in accessory mode (starter button twice but no gas pedal).lights should be on in the instrument cluster.
8. step on accelerator and hold until check engine light shuts off. Release accelerator.
9. press on/off button to turn everything off.
10. start car normally.
11. tranny ECU is reset
12. They have different ones list and both are listed for mdx from what I can see.

Both are pretty much the same just minor differences. Relearns can be a pain. Like my Mercedes shut off lights and radio turn key to on position press pedal all the way done and activate kick down switch. Now some say hold for 5 seconds, 7 seconds 10 seconds, 30 seconds. After that keep pedal down and turn car off and release pedal. Half say to remove key others say keep it in. Some say wait 30 seconds others 2 minutes. After that half say start car others say remove key reinstall and start car. Dealerships all say something different, specialty shops cant agree. You have to try each one till you find the one that works for your exact vehicle. Not every car is straight forward and may have minor differences. Even the same exact cars all seem to have slight differences.

I have given this a try. This didnot help. I am stuck. Any other suggestion.

This jerking starts happening only after the temperature gauge gets to middle.