no check engine light but the car will move slowly by itself. it’s like it has a very small amount of throttle on its own. if you put it into drive and let go of the break it idles at 1k rpms then can reach up to 10mph and stay at the same speed. i believe it’s causing shifting problems and hesitation. it’s a 2013 infiniti g37x im not to sure where to start diagnosing at. i had my throttle bodies replaced in the past but i installed the oem ones yesterday with the relearn procedure it still does the same thing. also since rhe day i’ve owned the car it won’t hit the rev limiter while being in parked. it maxes out at around 4 and a half or 5 and half rpms. i have a couple friends with vqs and they don’t have that issue
A vacuum leak will make an engine idle fast.
@imperator i’ve vacuumed tested already as well no leaks that i found
@woodley8900 What testing method did you use? Did you check for intake gasket leaks as well as vacuum hose leaks? Have you checked live data for issues? That thing is 23 years old and an unmetered air leak anywhere can cause the kind of problem you are experiencing.
@imperator well, is there a diagram or something showing the places i should be vaccum testing? i’ve only tried from the intake area
@woodley8900 A smoke test is a good way to find leaks, or you can use the spray cleaner method. Check all vacuum hoses, intake manifold gasket, anyplace unmetered air can get in. If you check live data you may find evidence in fuel trims for excess, unmetered air leaking in (computer would be compensating adding extra fuel).
like Chuck says, smoke test is the most reliable way. You can rent one, or Scotty has some DIY videos you can search. If there's any other troubleshooting you did, please post it and save everybody some time.
so last night i was able to smoke test the car i smoked the intake and all the vaccum hoses i could find no leaks. a couple months ago i replaced my throttle bodies with used oem ones from a low mileage donor car. i used to have high idle which got fixed by that but now i have this issue. i’m thinking it could be the throttle body still but last time i threw a check engine light
is there a way to check the throttle bodies to see if one is stuck a bit open or something? when k first crank it up now it starts up werid sounds like it wanted to die. i can post a startup video soon if that would help
Check your accelerator pedal
perform a pedal position relearn
@imperator seems to test fine and yes i’ve done the relearn. when i start it up sometimes it cranks a little longer than usual and sometimes it seems like it wants to die it idles low then to normal. i started it up about 10 times yesterday and about 5-6 times it didn’t start up right but sometimes it starts up just fine
@imperator i could be testing the pedal position sensor incorrectly but i can’t find a video on it and the diagram i could be reading it wrong
@imperator also something else that’s going on is my lock button on my key fob won’t won’t. it won’t works basically right after the relearn procedure is done but after about 15 mins it’s already not working. so which means i have to insert my key fob into the little slot in order to start the car. the black button that locks and unlocks the doors on that’s on the outside door handles won’t work at the same time. but everything works after the procedure is done except for the car moving by itself.
Well somebody needs to check the live data with a diagnostic tool and see what’s going on