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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Led strobe brake lights. How easier is depending on cars? | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | 4QR2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The way some brake light warning systems work, is to test the resistance of the circuit multiple times during brake application. Even putting the wrong wattage bulb can cause an error, or the right wattage but not OEM bulb! That is where the brake warning is specifically for "Brake Lights" and the car may also have a handbrake warning and a braking system warning. If one light provides warnings for two of those duties, then the light circuit problem could display a brake system fault. Sensors may also test for moisture in the brake fluid or brake fluid level. But in this case it is obviously the change you have made to the light circuit. If you were an electronics technician, you may be able to measure what the acceptable circuit parameters are, make a device with the equivalent load that also incorporates a relay to switch on the LED brake lights with another circuit. Not recommended, because a) as Scotty says, the strobe lights could be illegal, and b) you are introducing non-standard complexities into what is a safety aspect. It is even possible now for a computer in the car to read an electronic part number and record a fault if that number is not found. Petrol-heads will soon be relegated to building beach-buggies and go-karts and not customising road vehicles. | |||||
| Answer to: Which Scan Tool Should I Get? | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | Whatchamacallit | How-to | |
| ... check on the manufacturer's website or confirm with the manufacturer's dealer. These software updates are more than just bug fixes and provide functionality and capabilities (including services) for certain manufacturer’s vehicles, as well as adding all the new model year vehicles. Foxwell NT-624 Elite The $269 Foxwell NT-624 Elite is a decent all-system scanner. Pros: Does everything as the sub-$250 tools mentioned above (including free lifetime updates) + full-system scan + also works with OBD I vehicles (very rare feature) + 4.3” TFT color ... | |||||
| Answer to: Electrical issues, starting problems | 20Relevance | 2 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Front Control Module would explain this Operation FRONT CONTROL MODULEThe Front Control Module (FCM) is an electrical control and interface center located in the engine compartment. When it is mated to the Power Distribution Center (PDC), it is referred to as the Integrated Power Module (IPM). The IPM, with its fuses and relays provides power and signal distribution throughout most of the vehicle. The FCM receives both hard wire and digital electronic inputs from the vehicle electrical system through the PDC. Based on these inputs and the ignition switch position, it provides direct power feeds and relay control to some of the vehicles' most critical electrical systems. The Front Control Module provides the following features: Controlled power feeds: - Front airbag system - Headlamp power - EATX module power (4 speed only) - Front washer motor - Rear washer motor - Cabin Heater - brake shift interlock system Relay controls: - Fog lamp relay (when equipped) - Park lamp relay - Front wiper on relay - Front wiper high/low relay - Accessory relay - Horn relay - Front & rear blower relay - Adjustable pedals relay (non-memory) - Electronic back light (EBL) run only relay Electrical inputs: - Headlamp battery supplies 1 & 2 - Module battery supply - Power ground - Ignition switch RUN or START position status - Ignition switch START only status - PCI Bus - Stop lamp switch - Horn switch - Back-up switch - Wiper park switch - Washer fluid level switch - brake fluid level switch - Ambient temperature sensor - Right park lamp outage - Left park lamp outage - Battery IOD - Battery (+) connection detection CONTROLLED POWER FEEDS Front airbag system The FCM provides power to the Occupant Restraint Control (ORC) system through two "fuse-less" circuits (ORC RUN/START, and ORC RUN only). These circuits are electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Power is supplied while the ignition switch is in the RUN and START positions on pin 48 of the FCM connector, and in the RUN only position on pin 29. Headlamp power The headlamp switch is a direct input to the BCM. The BCM sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM informing it of a headlamp switch status change. The FCM then turns on power to the headlamps through four "fuseless" circuits. These circuits are electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Power is supplied to each filament in a separate circuit. For vehicles equipped with Daytime Running Lamps (DRL), the FCM electronically steps down the headlamp voltage to provide the desired illumination. EATX power The electronic automatic 4 speed transmission module is powered when the ignition switch is in the UNLOCK, RUN or START positions. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Power is supplied through pin 27 of the FCM connector. Front washer motor The front washer switch is a direct input to the BCM. The BCM sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM informing it of a request to wash. The front washer motor is then powered through low side control inside the FCM. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. In addition, the FCM electronically protects the washer motor from system voltages higher than 16 volts by automatically switching off the low side circuit. Rear washer motor The rear washer switch is a direct input to the BCM. The BCM sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM informing it of a request to wash. The rear washer motor is then powered through low side control inside the FCM. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. In addition, the FCM electronically protects the washer motor from system voltages higher than 16 volts by automatically switching off the low side circuit. Cabin Heater When the ignition is in Run, the FCM monitors the PCI bus for the Cabin Heater Activation request. The Automatic or Manual Temperature Control initiates this request only when all conditions for the Cabin Heater activation are favorable. The request carries the status bit that the FCM requires to activate its Cabin Heater Assist Control output. This output is a low side driver (coming from FCM pin 15) which supplies a ground signal to the Cabin Heater (pin 5). When the Cabin Heater receives this ground signal input, it interprets this as an activation signal. The FCM is capable of diagnostic sensing. A cabin relay open is sensed if the output is off and there is a open condition. A cabin relay short to voltage is sensed if the output is active and there is a short to voltage condition. The FCM will set DTCs for both of these types of faults. brake shift interlock system The brake shift interlock solenoid receives power from both high side and low side controls inside the FCM. The high side control is on the same circuit as the EATX module power, and the low side control comes through pin 47 of the FCM connector. The solenoid is controlled by the low side driver when the brake pedal is pressed. Both circuits are continuously monitored for malfunctions. RELAY CONTROLS Fog lamp relay The fog lamp switch is a direct input to the BCM. The BCM sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM informing it to turn on the fog lamp relay. The fog lamp relay is then powered through low side control of the FCM. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Fog lamp functionality is not equipped on all vehicles. The FCM "learns" that the vehicle is equipped with fog lamps by reading the BCM PCI Bus message. Park lamp relay The park lamp switch is a direct input to the BCM. The BCM sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM informing it to turn on the park lamp relay. The park lamp relay is then powered through low side control of the FCM. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Front wiper on relay The front wiper switch is a direct input to the BCM. The BCM sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM informing it to turn on the front wiper on relay. The front wiper on relay is then powered through low side control of the FCM. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Front wiper high/low relay The front wiper switch is a direct input to the BCM. The BCM sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM informing it to turn on the front wiper high/ low relay. The relay switches power between the low speed and high speed windings of the wiper motor. The front wiper high/low relay is powered through low side control of the FCM. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Accessory relay The accessory relay works in conjunction with the FCM's power accessory delay feature to control the operation of the radio, power windows, washer motors, wiper motors and power outlet. The accessory relay is turned on through low side control on pin 35 of the FCM. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Depending on the ignition switch position, the accessory relay will remain on or will time-out and turn off. The accessory relay remains on in the RUN and ACCY positions of the ignition switch. In the UNLK and OFF positions, the relay will remain energized for 45 seconds then turn off. During this time-out period, if the driver or passenger doors are opened, the relay will turn off immediately. While the ignition switch is in the START position, the relay will also drop-out, then resume operation. Accessory relay operation is most noticeable by observing the operation of the radio or blower functions. Horn relay The horn relay operates through a direct wire input to the FCM from the horn switch (FCM pin 17) , or a PCI Bus message from the BCM. The relay responds to the horn switch, remote door lock and VTA alarm functions. The horn relay is powered through low side control on pin 10 of the FCM. Under normal operating conditions, if the horn is pressed for longer than 30 seconds, the FCM will automatically deactivate the horn to prevent damage to it. The FCM will re-activate control of the relay after a 25 secondcool-down period. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Front and rear blower relay RS with MTC Upon ignition on, the A/C-Heater Control Module sends a blower relay on request to the FCM over the PCI Bus. The front blower relay and the rear blower relay, if equipped, are then powered through low side control through FCM pin 30. The relay provides the high side to the blower motor, and the blower speed is governed through low side control in the A/C-Heater Control Module. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. RG with MTC Upon power up (Power switch on), the A/C-Heater Control Module sends a blower relay on request to the FCM over the PCI Bus. The front blower relay is then powered through low side control through FCM pin 30. The relay provides the high side to the blower motor, and the blower speed is governed through low side control in the A/C-Heater Control Module. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. RS & RG with ATC Upon power up (Power switch on), the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) Module sends a blower relay on request to the FCM over the PCI Bus. The front blower relay and the rear blower relay, if equipped, are then powered through low side control through FCM pin 30. The relay provides the high side to the Blower Motor Power Module, and the blower speed is governed through control in the ATC Module. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Electronic Back Light (EBL) relay The rear defrost switch is part of the Automatic Temperature Control or A/C-Heater Control Module (Manual Temp). When the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the rear defrost switch is turned on, the ATC or A/C-Heater Control Module sends a PCI Bus message to the FCM. The EBL run only relay is then powered through low side control on pin 31 of the FCM. The relay provides the high side to the rear window defrost grid, and ground is attached to the vehicle body. The FCM will only allow the rear defrost to operate in the RUN position. This circuit is electronically controlled and continuously monitored for malfunctions. Adjustable Pedals Relay (Non-Memory) The Adjustable Pedals Relay is only on non-memory Adjustable Pedals System equipped vehicles. The relay is supplied battery voltage from the IPM and is electronically controlled with a low side driver within the FCM. The relay is energized when the transmission is in reverse and when cruise control operation is engaged. This action disables the Adjustable Pedals System from movement. This circuit is continuously monitored for proper function. ELECTRICAL INPUTS Headlamp battery supplies 1 & 2 - 12 volt input on pins 1 and 2. Battery supply voltage for switching headlamp circuits only. Module battery supply - 12 volt input on pin 9. Battery supply voltage for all other FCM operations. Power ground - Ground source on pin 8 for all FCM operations. Ignition switch RUN or START position status- 12 volt input on pin 37. Allows the FCM to determine the ignition switch status for related FCM operations. Ignition switch START only status - 12 volt input on pin 19. Allows the FCM to discriminate between RUN/START input and START for related FCM operations. PCI Bus - Approximately 7.5 volt input on pin 22. Allows the FCM to communicate with other modules on the vehicle bus. Stop lamp Switch status - 12 volt input on pin 44. Provides for brake shift interlock function. Horn Switch - Ground input on pin 17. Primary means for engaging the horn. Back-up switch - Ground input on pin 39. Input is converted to a PCI Bus status message for use by other modules. Wiper park switch - Ground input on pin 16. Used to determine park placement of wipers. Also used as feedback to FCM to determine correct operating mode of wipers. Washer fluid level switch - Ground input to pull-up on pin 18. Ground is switched into the circuit when washer bottle fluid level is low. brake fluid level switch - Ground input to pull-up on pin 36. Ground is switched into the circuit when brake fluid level is low. Ambient temperature sensor - Resistive input to pull-up on pin 25. Corresponding voltage level is converted to a PCI Bus message for use by other modules on the bus. Right park lamp outage - 12 volt input on pin 21. Used to determine if right park lamp circuit is operating properly. Left park lamp outage - 12 volt input on pin 41. Used to determine if left park lamp circuit is operating properly. Battery IOD - 12 volt input on pin 20. The FCM enters a low power consumption mode when the ignition is turned OFF. This low current draw battery supply keeps the microprocessor functioning in the low power mode. Battery (+) connection detection - 12 volt input on pin 38. The battery connection on the PDC incorporates the use of an internal switch to determine if the connector is properly mated and the Connector Positive Assurance (CPA) is engaged. If the CPA is not properly engaged, a voltage on pin 38 will be interpreted as an unseated connector and a fault will set. NOTE: If the FCM is replaced, ensure connection between the FCM and the PDC is in good condition. | |||||
| Answer to: Toyota Venza parking brake issue | 19Relevance | 2 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| go try the parking brake on a brand new car on their lot and see if it's "normal". That's their favorite word by the way. | |||||
| 99 Ranger Brake or Rear Differential Problem? | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | czi50agjb8wa | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Replaced the brake master cylinder and brake booster on my 99 Ford Ranger 2wd with 70k miles because the brakes were so soft that the pedal's about to hit the floor & loud hissing when it was pressed. In addition to that, there seems to be a jerking feeling from accelerating from a stop, but it also happened when reversing so I thought it might be coming from the transmission or maybe the motor mounts. I jacked all four wheels. After reading that the jerking might be caused by u joints, I tried turning the driveshaft & there was a little play so I replaced both front & back, only to find out that the driveshaft still played a little like before, but at least the jerking stopped. I also replaced the rear brake shoes along with the springs when I saw one was broken on the right. I vacuum bled the master cylinder, then all four brakes, but the brakes still felt soft, even though I plastic wrapped the cylinder tubes, I figure it's because air's still in the system (had to wait next day to finish because no stock nearby & cold weather). After vacuum bleeding everything a 2nd time, the brake was still kinda soft but improved a little, but a new problem came up, the rear left side wheel was still spinning even though the brake was almost on the floor (rear right was more responsive to braking). It would only come to a complete stop after a little rumbling from the pedal finally near the floor which felt like the brake was finally biting. It would do it in both drive & reverse, but the brake was somehow more responsive when the truck's warmed up a bit. I also found out that the new (not remanufactured) master cylinder had a leak from the reservoir seal (that's why I wondered where the fluid went after brake testing, it was full before) so I need to exchange it for another one. The rear wheel still spinning after braking, is that caused by the master cylinder or is it something with the rear axle? The rear differential oil hasn't been replaced as far as I know, but it was almost level when I stuck my finger to check the fill plug. Why is it more responsive when warm instead of cold? Also, did the jerking stop because the yoke might've been lubricated with fluid from the transfer case? The teeth inside the yoke didn't look broken but it looked dry. Will it come back if I don't grease the yoke with Super Lube with PTFE? Could that have been a slip bump problem instead of u joints since the driveshaft still had a little play? I do apologize for the length, but giving as much detail as possible prevents just simply guessing & might help others with the same symptoms as mine. Thanks. | |||||
| 2000 Toyota 4Runner Brake Issue | 23Relevance | 6 years ago | cheenlee | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, I have a 2000 Toyota 4Runner Limited over 200K+ miles with some brake issues. I noticed at the front passenger brake pads, one of the brake pad is worn out more than the other brake pad on the same rotor, and when compared to the other front driver side brake pads, both pads are wearing evenly. I also noticed that when I am braking, the brakes do not initially bite sometimes and I would have to pump the brakes once then have a stronger bite. I have replaced the brake fluid on the 4Runner, but the issue is still there. I believe the front passenger brake caliper is binding, however, I would like to confirm prior to changing the brake caliper. Thank you, Chee | |||||
| Answer to: Shifting mistake from Drive to Park - 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/AWD | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You were hardly moving if it came to a stop in 5 feet. A friend of mine had his brakes go out in his 2001 Tiburon coming down an off ramp going highway speed. He shifted it into park without thinking, somehow the parking pawl held up to that abuse and stopped the car! My old Pontiac stalled last year when I was creeping in traffic and I accidentally shifted to park to restart it, not neutral. It clicked a couple times then I caught it and fixed my mistake. I haven't had a problem. My truck's parking brake had sticking problems and one time the left side rand ... | |||||
| Answer to: EPB how to disable | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have almost never had to use the emergency break "brake" Emergencies aren't supposed to happen often. I leave it in park and let the transmission hold the car. What happens if the transmission fails? Shift levers are known to get stuck. What if the parking pawl wears out (which is more likely when you don't use a parking brake) or you get hit while on a steep hill? Just let it roll away? And I wouldn't want it to suddenly turn itself on while i am doing 65 mph when has this happened? It this 1/1,000,000,000 probability worth the lack of pa ... | |||||
| Answer to: Thread For People Decades Behind Car Technology... | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | G.T. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hy! As @chucktobias mentioned, it is not only the parking brake. You can still find classic parking brakes in low class new cars since manufacturers slowly kill them with every generation. For example, Toyota Auris, previous generation of Corolla and Škoda Octavia still have the lever but Toyota Avensis doesn't. Current generation of Corolla and Octavia also have electronic parking brake while some Yarises still have the classic ones. So if you want a luxury car (I suppose you are looking those) with classic praking brake, take a look some generations back ... | |||||
| sudden acceleration | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | aggsterd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... frightening experience the other day. While parked in a grocery store parking lot, this is the sequence of events: After turning on the ignition, I put my foot on the brake pedal Then I put my car in <Reverse> Then I released the parking brake, and took my foot off the brake pedal My car then accelerated VERY fast in Reverse ~20 ft, nearly hitting another parked car! I immediately slammed on the brake pedal to stop the car, avoiding any shoppers or cars. Crisis averted! FYI, my floor mat is no where near either the brake or gas pedals. And it ... | |||||
| Answer to: Trouble starting when warm | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... Power to the Load Side of the Interlock relay and then to the starter solenoid. These days they only use the ignition switch on the control side of a "starter relay". That makes your ignition switch suspect. The way you start your truck is you push down the clutch pedal. When you do that you close the contacts on the Clutch Interlock Switch which provides a Ground to the Control Side (magnetic coil) in the Interlock Relay. Then when you turn the key to the Start Position, Power is provided to both the Load side and the Control Side of the Interlock Relay. ... | |||||
| Hooray for Us for Once | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | MrBob | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... hours and they said it was ready. The bill was $1800. When I questioned this they said they quoted me for one side and I should have deduced that both sides were being done. I can't remember ever being quoted for any brake job by the side. I don't remember the word side even being used when I was quoted. The gal at the register went on to say the car had the check engine light on and the check engine light guy was out on Saturday. I would have to pay for the repairs done so far and bring it back next week for the check engine light. Meanwhile the inspection ... | |||||
| Answer to: Cruise control shutting off | 22Relevance | 6 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You may want to check your brake switch. For cruise control models it's actually 2 switches inside one housing. One switch is "open" when your brake pedal isn't depressed. (Pins 1 and 2 on the switch) Press the brake pedal and the switch closes and among other things, your brake lights come on and the cruise control module gets a signal to disengage the cruise control. That seems to be working for you. The other switch is closed when the brake pedal isn't depressed. (Pins 3 & 4). It's the opposite of that first switch. . When you press the brake pedal the switch opens and cuts power to the cruise control actuator. It's a backup for that 1st switch. You may want to test that connection. (Step 4 in the test instructions) Maybe "back pin" the brake pedal switch connector with T-pins so you have a good connection and attach your multimeter probes to them. Your issue in intermittent so while testing for continuity between pins 3 & 4 (brake pedal NOT depressed) lightly tap the switch with the plastic handle of a screwdriver and see if it causes an intermittent loss of continuity between pins 3 & 4. That switch's contacts may be dirty or corroded causing your intermittent issue. (Another possibility is the ground wire going to your actuator but this answer is getting long so maybe test the switch and if it checks OK come back and we can go over that if you want.) | |||||
| 2015 Accord Parking Brake | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Fadyzaki10 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Everyone, I have an issue with the parking brakes on my 2015 accord. When I pull on the handle, it seems like it’s working perfectly fine, but when the car is lifted. The driver rear wheel turns freely, while the passenger one holds its place like a screw. I can’t see any broken or seized parts of the e-brake cable. I can see the lever moving when I pull in the e-brake. I already tried replacing the caliper on the driver side and readjusted the cable but still having the same issue. when I went to adjust the cable from under the center console, I ... | |||||
| Answer to: Parking brake not working | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| parking brake cables can be a pain in the rear end to fix. If the pedal goes straight down with no resistance, check the connection to the cable inside the car, then get the vehicle up on stands and follow the line from where it comes through the floor/firewall and down underneath the floor. It will go back to the rear and enter an equalizer, which splits it into two separate lines, one for each rear wheel. Look for breaks in the cables or corrosion. Also check where it goes into the rear brake assembly. I'm not sure how the cable connects to a caliper, but the problem should be pretty obvious. I had this problem with my Ford Ranger a couple years ago. Mine was easy to figure out being a truck cuz I could get under it while all 4 wheels were on the ground. The main cable was fine, but the driver's side one was bad. | |||||