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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Electric Parking Brake Squeak | 22Relevance | 2 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| See if this is similar to what you're hearing. The 1st video is the "Before" video. The 2nd video is the "After" video. He applied brake grease between the shims and the pads as well as on the caliper piston the outboard caliper contact points. It may be time for new brake pads anyway so if you have the service records see when they were last replaced. They're going to have to remove the calipers and pads to this so if you're going to be in for $190 anyway, now would be the time to do the rear brake job if needed. But I'd call around to some independent shops and get a quote for rear pads and rotors. You're probably looking in the $400 to $450 range. Just tell them to make sure to grease between the backing shims and the back of the brake pads and the caliper contact points. | |||||
| 1997 Toyota 4runner - Rear brake drum overheating | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | adventuretruck | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... (drums weren't replaced, didn't have much mileage on it). First thing I did was open up the drums to double check all the springs were EXACTLY the same on both sides and that they followed the factory position spec, however the issue still kept creeping. Before I decided to spend money on parts, someone on a Toyota forum mentioned the RH drum is known to have this issue, and to help stop it they added a washer on the pivot bolt of the RH brake shoe, where this would help increase the gap between the adjuster mechanism and the star wheel. After doing this, I ... | |||||
| Right passenger side front brake noise | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Tizzleofpa | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... is there, but not as prevalent as it is when I come to a complete or hard stop. This all started when I had to apply the brakes swiftly a while ago and so I thought it was because everything was rusted and needed replacing. I recently replaced the caliper, rotor, brake pads and lubricated everything, cleaned all the rust, etc and the problem went away. There was no pulsing in the brake pedal or pulling when stopping. This lasted a couple of months and now the noise is back again. My daughter and I put the car up on jacks, took everything back off, and care ... | |||||
| 2008 Kia Sportage dash brake lights issue | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | Jaylee | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... I was told that some dash lights were on but a mechanic had told the previous owner it was only a $30 sensor that was out that was causing them and not to worry about it. Well, as it turns out ALL the brake associated lights are on-- the ABS, ECH and the red parking brake light, and they all stay on all the time. Of course, I am concerned about driving a car like that. I got a cheap ODB scanner and ran a scan, it came up with only P0130. It is my first time using one so I could be doing it wrong. I only saw one kind of generic sounding "ABS unit" in ... | |||||
| RE: New Master Brake Cylinder install the Scotty way | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | scott619 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @chucktobias update pulled the existing unkown brand brake master cylinder from the Toyota Highlander. Put it in my vice and attempted to depress the piston it went in and stuck. With some prying and tapping it would come back out but you could feel resistance on the inner wall where the piston slides in and out. The new one from Dorman you could depress and feel it go in and out smoothly by hand. Installed and followed that video Scotty has where he used his lon screwdriver against the brake and seat with brake lines cracked tightened and repeated 5 times just like the video and brakes feel firm and there is no more creakiness when pushing on the brake pedal. It wasnt the brake booster, wasnt the lack of lubrication on brake pedal assembly it was 100% a crappy brake master cylinder. If this one starts to get creaky or gives me any issues will cough up the $250 at Toyota for an OEM but for now all is well and good night! | |||||
| Brake Pedal goes to the floor | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | R8RSFN12 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2008 Jeep Wrangler JK. It has 230K + miles on it. Having an issue with the brake pedal going almost down to the the floor. When I start the care in the moring, I have to pump the brakes to get pressure to build up. I have checked the following. Checked the brake pads: F: 6 MM / B: 5 mm - brake pads are good. But will be replacing them next month. Check brake fluid: The brake reservoir is not low. Checked for leaks in the break lines: No leaks were discovered. traced the lines from the master cylinder to each brake. Air in the lines: I had no way of checking this. Bad Master Cylinder: No way to really check. Saw no leaks from the master Cylinder. Had a mechanic look at it, and the master cylinder was leaking into the Power brake booster. Had both replaced, and still having issues with the brakes to the bottom of the floor board. Is there something that I am over looking ? Thanks - Scott | |||||
| Brake pedal stiff when starting the car? | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | RamonT. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, Scott, I hope your doing well. I have a question about my Kia Seltos ex 2023.i bought it on July 2022. 16050 km.This year of March 2024 I noticed when I go start the car. Step on the brake pedal then press the start button, the brake pedal is stiff? I did a test if my power booster brake is failed. It's seem no issue with the power brake booster. The car start and no issue when I'm braking.only everytime in the morning to go to work the brake pedal is stiff. I step on the brake pedal lightly and press start button, the car start no issue. Is this normal for new suv model of Kia?Please, I'm hoping you could help me what is the issue of brake pedal stiff? Before I go to the dealer.thank you in advance. I also try to scan it OBD 2.no error show. | |||||
| Answer to: Frequent rear brake pad changes | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2 possible reasons. Your rear calipers are sticking for a mechanical reason (bad calipers) or the hoses between the metal brake lines and the calipers are collapsed (which will cause the calipers to stick). Understand, under hydraulic pressure when the brakes are applied it can overcome a "collapsed" flexible brake line. But when that hydraulic pressure is released a collapsed flexible brake line won't allow the pressure to be released. The first reason is easy enough to tell by jacking it up and spinning the wheel. Is it locked up? Is there resistance. Or does it spin freely? And to drill down on the second reason, If the wheel doesn't spin easily, simply loosen the banjo bolt on the caliper and see if brake fluid drips out and then if the wheel spins freely. That will tell you if the problem is or isn't with the flexible hose between the steel brake lines and the calipers because a collapsed brake line won't continuously drip brake fluid if not under pressure and loosening the banjo bolt will release the pressure on the caliper | |||||
| Mystery rotor warping after driving over 80 mph after every front end brake job | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | willbenson | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I have a 2003 toyta tacoma prerunner 2.7 with 300k miles. I have had multiple front end brake jobs within the past few months and with every one of them, the rotors end up warping. Rotors have been replaced multiple times. brake pads have been replaced multiple times. brake calipers have just been replaced. The passenger side wheel hub has just been replaced. Upper control arms have been replaced within last 30 days. Lower control arms have been replaced within the last 30 days. Upper ball joints have been replaced within the last 60 days. Lower ball joints have been replaced within last 30 days. Rack & pinion gearbox replaced within last 30 days. Rear brake drums have been replaced twice within last 30 days. Rear brake shoes have been replaced twice within last 30 days. Master cylinder has been replaced within last 30 days. Sway bar links have been replaced within last 30 days. Front end alignment done withing last 30 days. Tire rotate and balance within last 30 days. No issues felt in brake pedal. I do not do any hard braking. I do not abuse my brakes at all. The 'only' association I personally have noticed between the brakes being perfect and the rotors warping is when I drive over 80 mph for any length of time, even for seconds only. Immediately following the higher speeds, the rotors are suddenly warped, and I have the typical pulsing while braking. There is a noticeable vibration, drone, or whatever you might call it at speeds over 80 mph in the front end which is also somewhat felt in the steering wheel and not the brake pedal. Thank you for your help Scotty! | |||||
| 1985 Mitsubishi Lancer 1400 M/T Brake Issue | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | Rlsantos225 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I have a 1985 Mitsubishi Lancer 1400cc with manual transmission, odometer reading of 50T kms. We are trying to resolve the braking issue of the car since it is bothering for me. When you step on the gas it goes forward but if you step on the brake, the brake pedal goes down and the car suddenly stops. Once you release the brake pedal, the car wouldn't move forward even if you are already stepping on the gas pedal. If you check out the brake pedal, it remains 30% depressed and I need to.pull it up using my foot so the car will start to move forward again. This is the scenario each time i step on the brake pedal and would like to resume moving forward. What could be possibly wrong with the brake system? I replaced the caliper kit on the 2 front tires and the wheel cylinders at the back. What do i need to check or replace, the brake master cylinder assembly or the hydrovac? Thanks in advance for your reply. Rene Santos | |||||
| 99 Ford Ranger Brake Bleeding After Replacing Corroded Line | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | czi50agjb8wa | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Replaced the leaking corroded rear driver's side brake line on a 99 Ford Ranger XLT 2wd 2.5L 4cyl auto. Bought a steel piece of brake line, cut & bent it, & used a steel brake line fitting to connect to the old line. After jacking up all 4 tires to have easier access to the brake nipples, I manually bled the brakes myself & connected the bleeding tank from a vacuum pressure bleeder tool. Initially, there was still a small leak from a connection that didn't show up when I didn't put it in drive & braked so I tightened it even more to fix it. Unfortunately, the rear driver's side was breaking intermittently compared to the passenger's immediate response. I redid the bleeding with a helper the next time & it's still doing it. I know there's still air in the system, but can I just focus bleeding on the rear driver's side instead of doing all 4 every time? It took me 4 times the last time vacuum pressure bleeding all 4 with the master cylinder when I replaced the brake master cylinder & booster, & it didn't fix itself till I saw a huge air pocket in the master cylinder. It's difficult to see air bubbles once the fluid's clear & with a vacuum pressure bleeder, you're not even sure if those bubbles are just from the rubber connector not sealing properly with the brake nipple that's why I tried to do it manually to make adjustments. PS: I didn't see an ABS module near the master cylinder, which is the normal location. Do all 2wd Rangers have rear ABS modules underneath instead? I was curious because the dealer's parts dept was asking if it had ABS when I was asking for a front rotor replacement. I used an Innova 5160 to see if I can activate it, but there was no ABS option. Maybe the rear ABS (if it does have it) is what's complicating the bleeding process? Would a manual pump brake pressure bleeder be a better tool to use? Thanks. | |||||
| How to diagnose a brake issue on 06 Cadillac STS (or any car really)? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | LescoBrandon | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I part out cars and sell the parts online. I look for cars that have an issue and can be bought cheap, but have parts that sell well on Ebay. I came across a running 2006 Cadillac STS with a Northstar V8 w/112k miles. Was a northern car with some underside rust, and was being sold cheap because of having no brakes due to supposed rust. The brake lines are fairly rusted, but I can't find the spot of the leak, but believe it's gonna be a good idea to replace them all anyways rather than just trying to fix one that may be leaking. So I was initially going to harvest this car for parts, but kind of like it and am now leaning more towards fixing and keeping it as it has good tires with alot of tread, a new battery, looks like it's in pretty good condition and actually looks quite nice. There is some underside rust, but it appears to be less than or equal to what you'd see on just about any other northern car. This would be my first brake job. Anyone have advice on making sure I diagnose this right? The pedal goes to the floor and the only brakes it has are the e brake and when it's in park. The guy I bought it from never had a mechanic really look at it and just had someone tell him it's not really worth fixing. He suspected the leak was in the back passenger area as that is where most of the rust is. I added what I thought was about 8 ounces of brake fluid to the master cylinder and it's topped off. When I got in the car, the brake pedal had a little bit of pressure at first, but that went away and it sinks again. I was expecting the fluid to leak out somewhere, but didn't see any leaks and saw the cylinder still has fluid in it. Is this because there is a leak in one of the lines and the lack of pressure in the whole system is what is keeping the fluid in the master cylinder? Just want to make sure I propely diagnose all the faults and am not still having an issue if I replace the brake lines all throughout. I know alot of people shape the new lines to match the old, but down in Florida, there are some salvage yards with brake lines I could pull that don't have rust and from initial looking at the flow of the lines, it's possible I could replace some without much cutting and joining as I think with moving a few things out of the way like the fuel filter, it may be possible to fit the lines where they should go. Mainly looking for advice on how you'd go about fixing this or confirming where the exact leak is at. Thank you. | |||||
| Frequent bleeding of brake line. | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | brozynap | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My sister purchased from a local dealership a new 2018 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid. She now has 15,000 miles on the vehicle. Her brake pedal is very spongy and compresses almost to the floor to stop her vehicle. Her local dealership said there was air in her brake lines and the brake lines need to bled to remove air. They say this happens because “her type of brake fluid” attracts condensation and moisture which leads to air in the lines. They said this repair was not under any warranty or recalls. She relented and dealership charged her approximately $200.00 to bled her brake lines. Scotty is this true about some brake fluids, and is it normal to have her car’s brake lines needed to be bled every 15 thousand miles or so? | |||||
| Mitsubishi Montero io my question is what is the OEM number of the brake master cylinder that really fits my car | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Groovy | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| i live on a island called Curacao recently purchased a Mitsubishi Montero io 1.8 sohc 4wd W/O ABS from 2000 according to the car papers , that was bought at our local Mitsubishi dealer new in september {black}:tears: 2000 ,when i look up the VIN online it states : build in 1999,i replaced front brake brake pads 3 days later my bake pedal went all the way down , seemed to be a , now faulty brake master cylinder , toke it apart ,seals damaged by rusty debris flushed out and refreshed brake fluid in the lines, cleanded out cylinder,and started searching for parts, no repair kit available , no brake master cylinder available anywhere ,so i called our local Mitsubishi dealer ,had to give them my VIN number JMYLRH76WYY000472 they told me :we dont have none of those parts,and that they will not be placing any orders for the time being or in the near future and i would be better of on ebay , so i asked for the oem number of the brake master cylinder and they gave me not the correct OEM part number MR370640 has only 2 inlets , i explaned that the master cylinder i need has 4 pipe inlets ,one for every wheel , they answered this is the part number the system gives them , that's all they could do for me , i found the part without OEM number on ebay in Australia and the part on ebay also doesn't have or species a OEM number so my question is what is the OEM number of the brake master cylinder that really fits my car | |||||
| Brake Sinks to floor when the engine is running | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | TRD2500 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2011 Toyota Sienna XLE, 120k , Automatic, Had Code C1441 (Pending),Cleared code but hasn't returned (yet). Issue: brake Sinks to floor when the engine is running. My initial thought was a bad master cylinder, So replaced the part. Bench bleed the MC, manual bleed brakes. Problem remained. Used computer (techstream) to air bleed braking system (and ABS module) Problem remained. brake pedal is hard when the engine is off. The brake pedal gets harder when the engine is off and brakes are pumped. Figured the replacement MC is good. The vacuum check valve is good. No apparent leaks anywhere. No Fluid loss. (before or after the MC swap) Car does stop, but not until brake pedal is near floor. My typical experience with brake Booster is if they are bad, the pedal is hard to press when the car is running or not, but I am having the opposite issue. My experience with bad Master Cylinders if if you hold down the brake with the engine off they usually sink. I'm not having this issue. Wondering if this is a sign of a bad brake booster or something else. Thanks for your advice. Love your videos! Much Appreciated! | |||||