Replaced the leaking corroded rear driver's side brake line on a 99 Ford Ranger XLT 2wd 2.5L 4cyl auto. Bought a steel piece of brake line, cut & bent it, & used a steel brake line fitting to connect to the old line. After jacking up all 4 tires to have easier access to the brake nipples, I manually bled the brakes myself & connected the bleeding tank from a vacuum pressure bleeder tool. Initially, there was still a small leak from a connection that didn't show up when I didn't put it in drive & braked so I tightened it even more to fix it. Unfortunately, the rear driver's side was breaking intermittently compared to the passenger's immediate response. I redid the bleeding with a helper the next time & it's still doing it. I know there's still air in the system, but can I just focus bleeding on the rear driver's side instead of doing all 4 every time? It took me 4 times the last time vacuum pressure bleeding all 4 with the master cylinder when I replaced the brake master cylinder & booster, & it didn't fix itself till I saw a huge air pocket in the master cylinder. It's difficult to see air bubbles once the fluid's clear & with a vacuum pressure bleeder, you're not even sure if those bubbles are just from the rubber connector not sealing properly with the brake nipple that's why I tried to do it manually to make adjustments.
PS: I didn't see an ABS module near the master cylinder, which is the normal location. Do all 2wd Rangers have rear ABS modules underneath instead? I was curious because the dealer's parts dept was asking if it had ABS when I was asking for a front rotor replacement. I used an Innova 5160 to see if I can activate it, but there was no ABS option. Maybe the rear ABS (if it does have it) is what's complicating the bleeding process? Would a manual pump brake pressure bleeder be a better tool to use? Thanks.
Turn your key so the lights come on without starting it and look for an ABS light. By 1999, I'm sure it had ABS on at least one axle. My '99 has all around ABS, but it's also a 4×4. I had that same line break in my truck last spring, I just let our family mechanics handle it. I'm not great at making my own brake line and use pre-made lines when I did brake lines in my '79 Catalina last year.
If you have ABS, you need a bi-directional scan tool to properly set the ABS solenoids to bleed it properly.
I've tried several times with a pneumatic vacuum brake bleeding with no success getting rid of air on the rear driver's side. Doesn't matter if I bled it 10 mins each for the rear. It's actually worse than when I replaced the master cylinder & brake booster. I did that more than 4x, didn't completely bleed, but got lucky & the air eventually escaped to the reservoir. Brake bleeding with a buddy didn't work either.
I've tried several OBD scanners that supposedly can do ABS brake bleeding: Innova 5160, Topdon ArtiDiag800BT, Xtool A30M & Autel AP200, but none of them could do that on a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I asked & researched before using the Xtool & Autel, both said it can but failed. I'm starting to doubt coverage checkers for other makers.
What would be the best bang OBD scanner with ABS brake bleeding for my truck that's also universally compatible with a lot of manufacturers without breaking the bank? Not interested in models where you're basically leasing them like Thinkcar, Launch, etc. There's a NEXAS ND603 that's supposedly customized for Fords & Foxwell NT630 Plus, but I want to hear from people with actual successful experience using them for a Ranger vs false promise advertising. Thanks.
I don't think a scanner will help you in this case. It really sounds like air is making it's way back into the system or your not bleeding the system properly. I would double check everything is hooked up properly and there isn't any leaks.. What work did you do on the breaks? If your dead set on a scanner how much are you willing to spend, it will make it a lot easier for us to recommend something.
The rear driver's brake line sprung a leak from corrosion so I fixed it by bending a line & connected it with fitting. There's no leak now, but the pesky air just won't leave the rear driver's side. The passenger's at full stop while it's still chugging along till you double pump it for good measure, but that's with all wheels up. It would be dangerous if it's on the road if you can't estimate when you're supposed to stomp repeatedly. I understand that you can't completely seal off the brake nipple, but as long as the suction's strong enough that should be somewhat negligible. I've even bought a manual pump brake bleeder that pressurizes from the reservoir instead to try & see if it would work, but I haven't started it yet because I need a cap that would seal completely & the one included doesn't fit right. I would've tried the Phoenix reverse brake bleeder, but it might cramp my hands from pumping + it's plastic.
$120's my max budget & those 2 are the only ones I haven't tried yet. As much as I'd like to get a tablet version, the idea of you renting the equipment through annual subscriptions instead of owning it after paying so much is ridiculous for DIYers. I tried the dongle ones like the Xtool & Autel, but both were kinda buggy on software for Fords. I went over with the Xtool because of the extra features, but what good would those do me if it won't do the job I bought it for?
Any one worked on Rangers with Foxwell & succeeded? That seems to be more universally compatible, but I want to hear it from experienced people not empty promises from makers. Thanks.