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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Stupid mistake i did while changing brakes | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | Dad2LM2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hard to know. Most cars have a little adjuster wheel to either tighten or loosen the parking brake; might just be that. You might have to take off the wheel but might not have to take the rotor off (there is sometimes a little rubber plug that you have to pop out to get access to the wheel). If that is not it, then take both rear rotors off and compare the parking brake shoes and hardware side to side. As @mrbob says, something could be bent or you might have broken one of the springs. Check the parking brake cable, too. Replacement parts shouldn't b ... | |||||
| Inspecting Driveshaft U-joints | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... worn U-joints, and I had a hard time telling if they're worn. I crawled under, grabbed the driveshaft and tried to twist it. I could twist it back and forth a bit. The parking brake was on and I couldn't tell if the parking pawl was in its slot or not, as I always put my brake on before going to Park. In my mind, the driveshaft shouldn't rotate at all if the parking brake is on, regardless of the pawl position. I released the brake and gradually let it roll back onto the pawl and tried to twist it again, and it would not twist. Every once in a while taking ... | |||||
| How do I fix EPB activation error | 25Relevance | 1 year ago | Tjmac500 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... you could hear it attempting to engage. To confirm the EPB actuators were switched from left to right . The left side was still not engaging properly. Therefore , it was recommended replacing the left caliper even though nothing was leaking and no apparent damage. I approved the new caliper and there was no change. The left actuator will not fully engage , causing the fault message in the cluster. The scan tool shows live data and shows that the left side is showing about 4-5 amps and the right side is “0”. Performing a complete scan there are 0 codes store ... | |||||
| Drum and parking brake noise when released | 22Relevance | 6 years ago | Jrsol | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I have a 1998 Toyota Camry 2.2L with 65,000 miles and I have a noise coming from the rear drum brakes only when I release the brakes. It occurs when I release the parking brake also. I cleaned the brake dust off and it still continues to make the noise. What could I do? Thanks. | |||||
| Answer to: Electronic parking almosy snapped off while learning to drive | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Electronic parking brakes are yet another useless "because we can" piece of technology that is actually less useful and less reliable than the old mechanical parking brake lever or pedal. | |||||
| Answer to: Changing Rear brake Pads | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You might need to unlock the electronic parking brake to be able to service the brake pads and retract the pistons without damaging anything. My 2013 Ford Fusion had an electric parking brake and it had a sequence that needed to be done to unlock it. I figured it out from a Google search. Those things are so stupid. I don't understand how a lever and cable became more expensive than electric motors and more computer programming. | |||||
| Answer to: How do I set my park brake | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Hayq04 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty. I want to know is it alright to park the car on hill with this following steps. 1. Bring the car to a full stop.2. Keep the foot brake pressed.3. Shift to “N”. 4. Engage the parking brake.5. Lift your foot of the foot brake. 6. Press the foot brake. 7. Shift the gear into “P”.8. Lift your foot of the foot brake. | |||||
| 2013 Ford Taurus E-brake Locked Up | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | stphnl329 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scotty, My parents bought a 2013 Ford Taurus a few years back from a mechanic. The car now has over 200k km on it now and when they parked it today there was a snapping sound on the e-brake, and the pedal went loose. When they pressed down on the e-brake again, it engaged, but the e-brake pedal is now stuck down on the floor with the e-brake engaged. Is there any way for me to manually disengage the parking brake, or do I need to get it towed to a mechanic? Thanks Scotty | |||||
| 2002 Ford F-150 XLT Triton Brakes | 25Relevance | 2 years ago | christine.seattle | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and most of all the integrity! I recently came across your YouTube channel and love it!! I don't know much about cars, but it's so fun to watch your channel, I'm learning a little bit everyday=) I have a 2002 Ford F-150 XLT Triton pick-up truck with 300K miles. I bought it with almost this many miles and have no maintenance paperwork for it, but the engine is very quiet and works perfectly. I have been told the brakes need to be done, however, I have taken it to three different auto shops and been told different brake parts need to be fixed by all three different shops. Since I cannot get a consistent break down of what brake parts need to be replaced, I have decided to attempt to do them myself. In watching a few of your brake videos, I know that I should get Motorcraft rotors and Okebono pads, but I want to replace everything so I can know when the parts have been replaced and I don't have to deal with anything brake related for a long time. I have decided to start with the back brakes first since it's rear wheel drive and found out there is such a thing as a 'brake kit' that comes with all the parts. Sadly, Motorcraft no longer makes brake kits and I would like to avoid ordering parts from all over the place in fear that I will order the wrong things or miss ordering something. Is there a brake kit brand you can recommend, or do you feel so strongly about OEM rotors that I should just buy a brake kit and replace the rotors with Motorcraft ones and toss out the brake kit ones? One last question, on one of your videos, you say not to completely drain fluid in older vehicles. Does that also apply to brake fluid? I have never heard of anyone not changing their oil completely. I'm guessing engine oil is an exception? Thank you! Christine M. | |||||
| Answer to: Brakes | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I think you may find the issue at the proportioning valve. It sounds like its pressure differential piston is getting pushed to the rear and closing off the rear brake outlet. Easy enough to test the theory. Loosen the Rear brake Inlet line going into it and step on the brake pedal. brake fluid should squirt out so you know the valve is getting brake fluid from the master cylinder's rear brakes reservoir. Tighten that back up and do the same to the Rear brake Outlet line on the valve. See if there's brake fluid squirting out of there when you step on the brake pedal. If there isn't, you have to recenter the pressure differential piston inside of the proportioning valve body. There's plenty of stuff on the internet on how to do that. Once you get it centered, you may want to buy a proportioning valve bleeder tool. You remove the warning switch and install the tool while bleeding the brakes. The warning switch has a spring loaded pintle that sits in the groove of the differential piston. When the piston moves the pintle gets pushed up (and the brake warning light turns on). The tool is rigid. It sits in the groove and doesn't allow the piston to move off center. When you're done bleeding the brakes you remove the tool and screw the brake warning switch back in. | |||||
| Answer to: Traction control lights | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Here's what may be happening here. The brake fluid level sensor on your brake fluid reservoir is telling your TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module) that you're low on brake fluid and the TIPM won't let you shift out of Park. (as well as turning off ABS and Traction Control while you're driving) But the TIPM won't take any action until the "low fluid" signal is present for more than 5 seconds. (maybe why you can turn off ((reset)) the TIPM's timer and then start the van) So the drill is to make sure you have a full brake fluid reservoir, and if you do, inspect the wires and the connector for visible corrosion or damage. (don't just look at the visible wires, peel back that wire wrapping a few inches) If they check out OK you can either take the gamble to replace the sensor (switch) or you can perform a voltage/ground test on the brake fluid level switch harness connector to confirm. One wire should be being provided around 10 volts from the TIPM. The other wire (switch return) should be being provided Ground by the TIPM. But wait, there's more after the pictures...... Another possible reason could be your brake pedal (stop light) switch. Afterall, you have to push the brake pedal to shift out of Park. The reason I chose the brake fluid level sensor/switch 1st is because you were just there, moving that wiring around when you replaced the master cylinder. Since the problem didn't exist before the master cylinder replacement, it seems that's the most logical place to begin but that certainly doesn't rule out the stop light switch on the brake pedal. Of course always check your fuses first. M1 and M37 are protecting those circuits but you can't rely of fuse maps to list every circuit, so check them all. | |||||
| Emergency brake problems on my 2008 E-150 cargo van | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | RenMan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I'm having some emergency brake problems on my 2008 E-150 cargo van. I'm replacing the rotors, pads, calipers and emergency brake shoes. (Ford has the disc brake rotors & calipers with shoes on the inside of the drum for the parking/ emergency brake). The new rotors are a TIGHT fit over the shoes. The brake adjuster is all the way in and I'm having to force the rotor over the shoes. I've triple checked- everything is spec and installed correctly. Thinking about milling off 1/16th inch or so off the end of the shoe where the adjuster is. Any thoughts? | |||||
| GMC Yukon 1999 5.7l vortec brake peddle issue | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Luisflorez5134 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| how’s it going Scotty I have a problem ware I have to keep pumping the brake peddle to harden up to stop my truck I’ve done the brake lines no leaks at all front brakes are brand new wit rotors brake pads and lines I’ve done the brake bleed all for wheels did my abs auto brake bleed my rear brake drums have new hardware new brake cylinders from acdelco what do you recommend me doing | |||||
| Add Brake Fluid? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | ewroberts42 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, Mr. Kilmer This is an observation in the form of a question. If the oil change place adds brake fluid when they "check all of the levels", they set you up for rotor replacement. The volume of the brake fluid reservoir from low to high is the volume of the brake pads. When the brake fluid gets low, a light goes on (in my cars), and it is time to install new brake pads. If brake fluid is added in between, the rotors get scored before the brake light is actuated. I am surprised that I have never read this anywhere. Gee, never thought of this, did anyone? | |||||
| Answer to: Do I Change my Thermostat? | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| For that P0571 code check if your brake lights are working. Check fuse M37 in your underhood fuse box. If the fuse is good and the brake lights aren't working you may need to replace the brake light switch. P0571 CODE DEFINITION:Brake Switch "A" Circuit 6 POSSIBLE CAUSES·· brake switch 1 or brake switch 2 circuit is open· brake switch 1 signal circuit is shorted to ground· brake switch 2 signal circuit is shorted to voltage· brake switch power (12v) fused circuit is open· Stop lamp switch has failed (mechanical failure - stuck off) TOP REPORTED FIX:· Replaced brake Light Switch Next, to the P1797-MANUAL SHIFT OVERHEAT The P1797 Code gets thrown when the engine temperature exceeds 255° F, or the transmission temperature exceeds 275° F while in AutoStick mode. This is more tricky. You say you saw "white smoke from underneath the hood". 1st, make sure your radiator is full and none of your hoses are leaking. 2nd, make sure your radiator cooling fan(s) is working. 3rd, grab a scanner and see what the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is reading. When your van is "warmed up" it should stay between 195° F and 225° F. If the ECT sensor is saying the engine temp is staying within that range then there's no reason to replace the thermostat. If the ECT sensor is confirming the engine is overheating then replacing the thermostat may be the remedy. Next, check your transmission fluid level on the dipstick (engine running). Low transmission fluid will cause the transmission to run hot. Make sure you aren't low on fluid. Anything more than that and you'll need a scanner that can communicate with the TCM (transmission control module) to make sure that the Transmission Range Sensor is reporting the correct gear positions to the computer. | |||||