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18/11/2020 8:32 am
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Hi scotty,
This is Hany with a 2003 Ford Explorer XLS AUTO TRAN 2WD 156K miles.
I bought it used from a private part. I took the car and was driving fine for 1.5hours.
Then after a month the break started to get week until one day it was not working at all. When i was parking on lever P only the emergency break can stop it. The break pedal shows no resistance at all and it make an air sound in & out as i press it. ABS light is one. However; when the engine is off i get a strong break pedal just like a brand new car! Once I turn the engine on; the break pedal loses pressure and became useless!
Here is what I did:
- searched for leaks. I see no leaks.
- Bled the break. No imporvement.
Here is what i did not do and why:
- I did not change the Master cyclinder because if it has internal leak, then it should have been the same regardless of the engine on or off.
-Since that issue is related to the engine running or not running; i felt it must be one of 3 things, ABS, vaccume valve or break boosters.
-->Do you think i am right?
-If it is the ABS and it is expensive to replace for me now. Can i disconnect the ABS and just drive the car with manual break?
- How can I fix/change the vaccume & valve going from the engine to the break booster?
FYI i am originally from Egypt and always drive manual transmission & manual breaks. When i came to America and saw Auto trans & ABS hydraulic breaks on small cars! I felt I am in another planet!
Thank you Scotty! I love you and your spirit; even if you did not see or answer my question.. But i will name my son Scotty if you answered!
Stay safe my favorite person & mechanic.
LIVE FREEE OR DIEEE!
Hany Haniness
Just for fun... Please google (Fiat 128 year 1965) that was my car in egypt and i still own it and it work perfectly and has no computer system {black}:sweaty: just a bike with 4 wheels & 5 passenger.
{blackemo}:laughtertotears:
1 Answer
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19/11/2020 8:08 pm
Hi Jerry you need at least a break booster they will sink like that when the booster is bad