hello I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline 4x4 mileage 220K (not AWD) in which the Transmission started kicking out of gear not slipping but going like into Neutral, the codes it threw at me was P0752 and a P0741. i replaced the Shift Solenoid A and the A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A and Valve B, does not throw a code anymore, after the replacing those 2 solenoids but I still have the problem, this is what it does, When its Cold it run out perfect shifts through the gears nice and smoothly even mashing to the floor runs out great, but once hot this problem persist like a nightmare that won't go away, when it does this you can not get it to shift into any gear, but if you turn the engine completely off like shut off all power take key out type thing, shut off, start it back up it goes right into gear and runs great for about 30 secs or so then back into neutral it goes, and you can keep doing this as many times as you want. i have ordered a ATF Transmission Temperature sensor cause I think maybe its faulty according to ALLDATA, I'm already 500 dollars into this and have not solved the problem, any help would be appreciated. also I don't know if this is irrelevant or not but the A/C stopped working at the same time this happened, the scan tool shows clutch engaged but its not, Freon is full all sensors show good High pressure and low pressure look good. Transmission shop told me my Transmission is fried and needs replaced at a whooping 5500 dollars but this guy been known in the community to rip people off just saying i don't trust him at all. but i can not see that its the transmission being it runs out great when cold only after it get hot, and turning the vehicle off and restarting it make it work again, front pump weak? maybe? or some kind of electronic is not working properly I'm thinking, I have checked for bad grounds and can not find anything or bad loose connections, all seems good, someone told me to replace the TCM but this model does not show a TCM only ECU/ECM/PCM but which one? \I have not a clue this is what ALLDATA shows also Google don't show a TCM or Honda.com and they can not help me, There is a Solenoid or Sensor I question that shows on ALLDATA as C151 (5-BLK) in the picture of the Transmission just behind the starter on the Transmission but nothing telling me what it is, Oh yeah BTW I did do a complete Flush with Seafoam Trans tune and drained and filled up with CVT Honda Transmission fluid and added Trans tune back into it, the Drain Plug had very little metal shavings on it it did have some but not much and the fluid was dirty but did not have a real bad burn smell to it and it was still sort of slick but very brown looking, so this is why I'm trying to rule out the transmission. its something electrical. I'm guessing the next step would be if the temp sensor does not fix it a new ECU/ECM/PCM but before I do that maybe an expert could guide me in the right directions to were I need to be looking, to where I don't have to spend 5 to 6 hundred dollars for a ECU/ECM/PCM. I hope I gave you enough info. if you need more please let me know thanks Scotty
PS I love watching your videos, I have learn a lot through the years.
4x4 not AWD
it's funny you should mention that because the Ridgeline VTM system has a lot more in common with AWD than it does your conventional 4WD system.
- under normal circumstances, the vehicle is driven by front wheels
- the system is active all of time, requiring no input from the user.
- there is no transfer case. It's a center differential. There are no shift forks, clutches, locks or anything like that
- The "lock" function simply engages a limited slip function inside the rear axle.
- All the other manufacturers that use this type of system call it "AWD"
Just ignore the marketing jingo. It actually says absolutely nothing to do with reality, or how something works.
drained and filled up with CVT Honda Transmission fluid
why? It doesn't have a CVT
I'm already 500 dollars into this
I'm guessing the next step
I don't have to spend 5 to 6 hundred dollars for a ECU/ECM/PCM.
So stop guessing and throwing money at the problem. With 200k+ miles on the vehicle, it's definitely not out of the question the transmission is fried. But if you don't trust the guy then get a second opinion. They have the tools to diagnose this type of thing.
but why replace a transmission if thats not the problem even if its got 220K on it, i have a Oldsmobile Bravada with almost 300K on it runs just fine, cause it has high milage don't assume the transmission is out. the problem with this is getting it to a reputable shop.
so i go and replace the transmission and still have the same problem then what? im out 5500 dollars and still nowhere. thats my point. i live in a country area were most shops have the same tools i do, the scanner is not telling me anything anymore since i replaced the 3 solenoids.
I don't know if this is irrelevant or not but the A/C stopped working
P0741 means the TCC isn't working, which can overtemp the fluid cooler which can negatively impact AC.
This is consistent with the other symptoms you describe.
so the TCC is exactly what? is it inside the transmission what do i need to replace?
TCC is exactly what?
TCC = torque converter clutch
It locks the engine output to the transmission input. If it doesn't lock properly, then the torque converter will be constantly churning and shearing the fluid, heating it up. It's deep in there. Not accessible.
what do i need to replace?
I can't hook up diagnostic tools, test drive your truck, and troubleshoot over the internet. You need to take it to a transmission expert.
But realize that most transmission failures are not something you can just drop in a new part and go. The moment the transmission has to come out of the vehicle to be torn apart it's considered a write off due to the labour, skill and special handling involved. They are highly complex devices that require special tools and facilities. At that point the best solution is to replace it with a professionally re-manufactured unit which your mechanic installs.
ok thank you. guess i will get a re-manufactured transmission and install it myself since i have the tools and ability to do it. even if i need it flashed i have the scanner to do this. i have the Topdon Phoenix Plus elite and the Autel MaxIM608 II Pro if i need to program the new transmisiion to the ECU/ECM/PCM.
why replace a transmission if thats not the problem
90% of the time it's the transmission. Especially with that many miles. But I agree with you. You should have transmission specialist look at it to make sure it is the transmission. If it's a good shop that has to guarantee their work (they don't want "come-backs") and has a reputation to keep, then they'll make damn sure.
But here's the thing ... you've already spent $500. How much more money do you want to spend diagnosing and trying things, before finding out you need a new transmission anyway?
Typically if control modules go out, it generates diagnostic faults.
even if its got 220K on it, i have a Oldsmobile Bravada with almost 300K on it runs just fine
Your Bravada is an exception.
shops have the same tools i do
you have a car lift and transmission jack?... bidirectional scanners and gauges to measure line pressure?
Remanufactured transmissions are tested on a dyno. I won't even get into what's needed to rebuild them.
then by all means diagnose it yourself. When I say "tools" it implies the skills and experience to be able to use them as well.
install it myself
I strongly advise against that. It's not a backyard mechanic kind of thing. It's nice that you have all those digital tools, but this job requires mechanical skills and experience. If you mess it up, you could be out thousands of dollars. When the mechanic installs it, he assumes all responsibility for problems. If you do it yourself, you forfeit the 1yr/20k warranty.
well an update on this transmission, I'm glad you experts know so much about it and say the TCC is non serviceable except by taking the whole transmission apart, well this is the update I paid for ALLDATA anyways so i did some research and yes indeed you can get to the TCC solenoid and shift solenoids on this transmission without having to take the tranny out and split it apart. there is a plate you take off and guess what all 4 of them the 2 brown connector ones and the 2 black connector ones are right there for you to change out. I'm no expert but I know the difference in a transmission slipping and a tranny just going into neutral or out of gear. so there are 2 tcs103 and 2 tcs102 or better yet WVE 2N1224 and WVE 2N1228 or OEM part exchange numbers 28400RDK003 and 28500RDK003 and BOOM guess what I replace the TCC one black plug with the other one black plug and guess what? shift great never even goes into neutral but after it get hot I have a issue it will not go into OD or 5th gear due to when I switch out the 2 solenoids the bad one moved to this position, so that tells me that the 1 particular solenoid is bad, don't have the problem with the latter problem or the first problem above, so instead of paying 1000's of dollars to replace the transmission I'm going to replace this 150.00 solenoid which I know for fact will fix it, mean while I just want anyone else that may have had this problem to look at this first, cause I was told by Professional experts that these solenoids were not serviceable without taking the tranny completely out and splitting it apart, to save you a lot of money, just under the battery compartment, there is a dual solenoid pack on back of the transmission side facing the drivers wheel close to front fender on transmission just behind the starter, 6 bolts holds this solenoid in place, you have to disconnect the shifter linkage and 4 bolts holding the wiring harness, when you get the dual solenoids out there will be 3 tubes things with screens on them 1 long 2 short ones mark them, pull them out, then there are I think 8 bolts that takes this other cover off, u will need to tap lightly on it to get it loose cause it is held by 2 dowel pins, right behind this cover are 4 solenoids that controls the shifting and torque converter, all 4 are right there, now be careful to not try to pull 1 out before another one cause the 2 top ones are connected by the same bolt and over lap one another, but anyways you can pull these out replace them with new ones and will solve the problem, maybe not on yours but definitely fixed mine. I'm not knocking the professionals but I'm tired of these so call mechanics trying to rip people off. I was told this was going to cost me in the range of around 6K when all said and done with a new Transmission or around 5K with a remanufactured, and all it cost me to fix it was a little labor on my part and a lot of research on my part, which i hate to say the people here did not help much for me but sure helped the other transmissions shops cause they were all saying the same thing, so I order the part costing 150.00 fix the problem , but then afterwards i got to thinking I'm going to go ahead and replace the other 3 later , cause its running great with no problems, So I ordered the other 3 solenoids to replace them at a later time, total will be around 450.00 cause it only take 30 mins to an 1 hr to access them if you know what your doing and be back on the road, . I hope this helps someone later down the road, if you don't want to do the work at least let the mechanic know about this, cause I can just bet they be like the mechanic here at this transmission shop that was going to do my transmission for me had no ideal it was that easy to access these solenoids or they knew and did not want to tell me, at this point I can't prove anything but when I confronted them about it they acted like they had no clue it was so easy. but said it was good to know. I will leave at that. thanks
you experts know so much about it and say the TCC is non serviceable except by taking the whole transmission apart
this is 100% true, and the plate is likely warped from heat now.
solenoid which I know for fact will fix it
If you say so. We'll see if it works long term. You're not out of the woods yet.
Solenoids don't usually go bad for no reason.
total will be around 450.00
So you're at least $950 into this transmission now, right?
yes just drove it over 600 miles straight, highway miles with no problems, shifts great , and yes i believe the solenoid went bad due to Fluid not being changed properly, but what, 600 miles one way and 600 miles back actual miles is 623 there back 648 miles. seem to do great and no that plate is not warped due to heat. I'm not a shade tree mechanic btw, I use to be a certified ASE mechanic back a few years ago. most my whole life but found i could make better money truck driving, and I do all my work on my Semi Truck and yes I have all the right tools for that also. I actually came on here to get some help cause i did not feel like doing all the research and sometimes other peoples ideals can help, i was not familiar with this particular Transmission but right now its working great. I done exactly what the Honda dealership Mechanics would have done or any other shop then charged me a lot more, a Honda Mechanic actually gave the insite on this to look it up through ALLDATA he told me they have changed these out in the past, also there is one other thing he said they do is upgrade the Software in the Control Module fixes a lot of the issues. but anyways, its working great i think over 1200 miles it would have acted up by now if it was clutches or Torque Converter bad or any other part.
yes just drove it over 600 miles straight,
Highway driving doesn't use the TCC at all.
i believe the solenoid went bad due to Fluid not being changed properly
if that's true, then the rest of transmission is not far behind.
I use to be a certified ASE mechanic
yeah right. An ASE who doesn't know what a TCC (all automatics have this) or 4WD is, and uses CVT fluid.
Anyway, good job on the repairs. Hopefully they last long enough to get your $950 worth.
I done exactly what the Honda dealership Mechanics would have done or any other shop
I thought the shops wanted to replace the transmission.
Solenoids don't usually go bad for no reason.
this information is false, Honda Mechanic told me these solenoids go bad all the time, anything electrical can and will go out. there is nothing fool proof about anything that's electrical. i mean come on 220K miles i believe that's pretty good how long it lasted, a lot of miles, just like the starter 224K miles it went out completely original equipment. nothing last forever, yes 950 dollars beats 5K any day, I'm happy with it. I can not understand why you can't be happy with this. and saying oh the plate going to warp now due to heat, well I will tell you I torque the bolts to spec with a proper professional inch lb torque wrench just like ALLDATA told me to even down to the sequence. I did exactly what a Honda Technician would have done, and they do it a lot as what I'm told.
They go bad because the transmission goes bad. A solenoid is a simple electromagnet. It shouldn't fail (without help) if it's built correctly. But ok I guess Honda is an exception and I will avoid them. It's not that I don't want to be happy. I just think the risk is too high chasing a worn out transmission with 220k and dirty fluid with $950 in parts. I don't think it's good practice, and apparently neither did the transmission techs. That was their advice, because they know it'll come back.