Hello Scotty how are ya doing, I hope all is well. I have a 2011 Volvo Xc90 3.2 2wd Automatic with 122,000 miles; and a bit of an odd situation. So The car currently has a Tpms light and check engine light on the dash. The check engine light is due to there being an efficiency code for all 4 of the catalytic converters, I believe it is not related to the cars electrical issues but rather there is a decent exhaust leak(Let me know your Thoughts on this?). But on to the odd ball electrical problems, as I stated earlier the only light that ever illuminated besides the check engine light was the TPMS light which was never much concern to me as for I check my tire pressure everywhere week-2weeks depending on the weather. But recently I planned on selling the car and one of the first people who planned on buying the car had me bring it to a mechanics shop, where he scanned all the modules and pulled a handful of codes I never knew existed. We both agreed that selling the car wasn't in either of our interests at this point, so I brought it home and hooked it up to my scan tool and did a full module scan then I got back the same codes. I have photos if you'd like but ill list the codes at the end of this message. The cars TPMS light has been since about 95,000 miles and I was wondering if its possible that the rest of these codes could be a direct result of the 3 failed wheel speed sensors or if that's unlikely. I have removed and visually inspected all the sensors and the rings they ride over, everything seems in order and that they where snugged. There were very small bits of rust on the end of the sensor but not very much. I have yet to clear all the codes and take the car for a drive, nor have I viewed the live data of the sensors before I started but I do plan to check when I go for that drive after new years. Also the car is rust free for the most part the only exception is the exhaust due to it being exposed to salt for the past 3 years, but body & Frame and everything else underneath is perfect in that sense. Thank you and I appreciate it, please let me know you opinions on this car.
ABS-C003A07(Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Mechanical Failure; Permanent)
ABS-C003707(Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Mechanical Failure; Permanent)
ABS-C003107(Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Mechanical Failure; Permanent)
ABS-U042829(Invalid Data Received From Steering Angle Sensor Module; Permanent)
ABS-U012600(Lost Communication With Steering Angle Sensor Module; Permanent) {Will View Live Data on this as well over the weekend}
ABS-U000100(High Speed CAN Communication Bus. No Sub Type Information; Permanent)
SRS-E001(Control Module Communication Faulty Communication)
CEM-9C03(Antenna/Light Ring Signal Missing; Not Active)
CEM-1A51(Communication with SRS Control Module Signal Missing; Active)
UEM-0081(Rain Sensor Signal Too Low; Not Active)
UEM-0005(Sun Roof Communication Fault; Not Active)
First of all, the TPMS light does not have anything to do with the engine code. With that being said, I'm more concerned about the ABS codes. You can buy and replace the faulty speed sensors easily and most likely it will solve the ABS issues, but if you are not comfortable doing that, you can ask mechanics to check the ABS system with their scan tools to tell you what exactly the issue is.
The SRS code is related to the airbags and I don't think it is a big deal since the car is 10 years old and I would not expect that the airbags will work fine.
Yeah I know they are unrelated I stated that in my message, and do u believe it will solve most of the abs issues? Cause I don't mind spending the 300$ if it will sort things out for me. And im gonna pull some live data tomorrow via my scan tool to further see what's wrong or if i can get a better sense if it is a dead sensor or something else entirely.
If you can scan it and get the live data, then you definitely can find out what's going on. Pray it is sensor issues, otherwise, it costs an arm and leg.
Okay sounds good, ill have an update on it later today or tomorrow.
Okay so after some deep attention and cleaning to the rings and then inspection of the sensors, I put everything together and cleared all the codes then took the car for a drive. While viewing the live data it showed all sensors operating in sync and properly functioning, one odd thing i noticed was the reference velocity was at 4215.38mph. I'm not sure if that's normal. So i drove the car for a bit and then right at the 20 mile mark where it should of reset the low tire pressure light, the Service Tire Pressure System message came back and it showed a code for wheels missing. But i just cleared that code and it has yet to come back after a few miles of driving but the Low Tire Pressure Message is still there and cannot be cleared, and yes i checked the pressure and set them at cold to the spec in the drivers door card. Besides that message though, the only codes that keep coming back when i do an all module scan are CEM-1A51(Communication with SRS Control Module) and CEM-9C03(Antenna/Light Ring Missing). Could that be possible caused by a blow fuse? And I also pulled the SRS live data and it showed one of the Occupant Weight Sensors are disabled. Could a bad weight sensor cause a miscommunication with the module?
For the tire pressure light, check the spare tire too. If it is good, then one or more of the pressure sensors is going bad. Not worth fixing it.
About the SRS code, you are correct. Check the fuses and if they are good, it may be a sensor. If you don’t need it for inspection, just live with it. You buckle up, so you do not necessarily need the air bag.
Could a car that has wheel speed sensors also use direct tpms off the tire valve stem? and I should check that spare it hasn't been for a good 2 years. But I just went down and puled the fuse for the srs module and it wasn't blown, but the metal prongs on it where very brownish and yellow in color and only silver towards the tip. After I put a new fuse in i ran the module scan 2 times with a 15 min interval between them, and the code didn't come back. Now there's just the light ring around the ignition but honestly might just not bother replacing the part due to it being 62$ and it doesn't show any dash lights so its not much of an issue. Thanks for the tips ill keep updating on how that low tire pressure thing goes after i drive it some more, and also at one point the car was misfiring quite a bit and due to that running rich(might be lean not 100%) and i swapped all the plugs and coils. Everything was fine then a 02 sensor went bad, and my mother drove it for a good bit again(150-200 miles), then once i sorted that everything was fine. But now about 1500-2000 miles later its showing that one of the bank 1 cats has an efficiency issue. Should i dissemble the exhaust and soak all 4 of the converters in lacquer thinner? Due to them being only able to be bought in pairs and the set I need is 1600$ and i live in NY with stupid emissions standards. And in my case i cant buy them anywhere else but the dealer due to those laws