My wife has a 2013 Honda Accord V6 Touring sedan with 27,000 miles on the odometer. I drove her to the airport 3 days ago and drove it home. When I tried to lock it using the key fob, the car would beep as if I had left the key inside the car, but the key fob was in my hand outside of the car. I then tried to use that manual door lock on the driver's door and same response from the car. It would sound the alert beep and the car would not lock. Yesterday when I checked on it again, the battery was dead as a doornail. You remember the "dead as a doornail" quote don't ya boys?
Well, I have time today to work on the vehicle and would like to try to jumpstart it using my car and cables, but having not done this in a while, so I looked online to check the proper sequence of attaching the jumper cables. While searching I came across an article that put fear in my heart as it spoke of possibly damaging the newer cars due to the complexity of their electrical systems. This car does have the navigation, bluetooth, Alexa etc. Is their a concern trying to jumpstart it the old fashioned way, or do I need to have a 'battery specialist" do it, like AAA? I don't want to fry anything. 😳
And if I do try and it does not charge, when I change the battery do I need to take it to the dealer for "special computer resetting" as the article warned?
BTW, the date on the battery is 9/20.
Current battery is a Honda OEM 100 month, 630 CCA, 133 RC, group size 24F.
The posts are clean and it appears to be a sealed battery so I cannot check the water level.
It is flat across the top, without the two long caps that each have three plugs which can be removed that I am more accustomed to. It does have a full width long panel that looks like it could possibly be pried off, but when I gently tried to, it did not lift. So I suppose it is sealed.
I am an old school guy and would just go ahead and jump start it the old fashioned way. BUT, from everything I've read about newer cars with electronic everything, old fashioned jump starting MAY do serious damage to computers, resistors, sensors, relays, etc. I would rather be safe than unintentionally destroying the car's electronic system and have the jump done by a device dedicated for that purpose. If you have AAA (for the $95 per year membership fee) have them come out and do it with their fancy jumping tool.
Boy, I was ready and chomping at the bit to go out and jump start it the old fashioned way....until I read the second part of your advice. So AAA is on the way. That's a shame and disgrace to the whole neighborhood(as my grandmother would have said) that ya can't even jump start a battery these days without using specialized equipment.
But thanks again, Doc.
I've never heard of a "fancy jumping tool". What does it do?
hey Doc, AAA came, boosted the battery and within seconds the car started. Yeh! After allowing it to fully charge, he again load tested the battery and she's good. The alternator checked out fine as well. Not sure what caused such a drain on the battery though. AAA guy said that perhaps it was due to not turning the a/c off when stopping or starting the motor. Anyhow I did learn that AAA has decent prices on their batteries and a three year free replacement and additional three year prorated replacement. Costco, etc. may be a bit cheaper, but then they do not deliver!
Check your owner's manual.
The boosting procedure sanctioned by the manufacturer will be printed right there
old fashioned jump starting MAY do serious damage to computers, resistors, sensors, relays, etc
Balderdash. I think this is nonsense if you are doing it properly. How could applying a voltage that the battery normally sees, damage things? The vehicle doesn't know the difference if you are plugging in a new battery, giving it a boost, or charging it with the alternator. All the sensor voltages are regulated and buffered by the ECM anyway. I have a 2013 vehicle and have had absolutely no issues boosting it. (I even boosted it backwards by mistake once.) Same with giving other people boosts.
If you're absolutely paranoid about hurting things then just hook up a charger.
Thanks Joe. I commented on your reply but errantly posted it as a separate answer.
See below.
Load test the battery with the engine off and check the alternator output of about 14.5 volts with the engine idling. Check for parasitic draw to see if it's draining your battery somewhere. You don't open or add anything to batteries these days like we did in the Dark Ages.
Hey Doc, thanks for your response. Unfortunately I do not have the knowledge or the equipment to load test the battery or check the alternator output or check for parasitic draw. So before I try to find someone to help me with this, would it be okay to try to jumpstart it? If I could get the car started, I could take to AutoZone and have them check the things you advised. Otherwise I would have to call AAA and see if they are able to do this. So do you know of any reason I should not try to jumpstart it? At least this is something that I could do!
manual was very specific in where to connect the negative jumper cable
this is to keep any sparks away from the battery, which if damaged might produce explosive hydrogen gas.
Well, I was wondering about that. There are two mounting bolts as seen from the top and the one they stipulated was the most rear, so most distant from the battery. I wondered why one bolt was recommended over the other...now I know. Thanks again, Joe.
I looked for the manual, but it was not in the glove compartment. I called my wife who is out of town, but she did not remember where she put it.🙄 So wanting to be cautious with her automobile, I did opt for AAA intervention. Plus they were able to load test the battery and check the alternator output which I do not have the know-how or the equipment to do. Already paid for the service through membership, so might as well use it.
I do appreciate you responding and I especially got a kick out of "Balderdash"! 😉
Sorry, I meant to add that to MMJ's post.
You can get a free pdf of your owner's manual online. Just type in 2013 Honda Accord V6 owner's manual and you'll get about a dozen hits.
Well there you go! When I just checked it out, the online Accord pdf manual was very specific in where to connect the negative jumper cable of the car being boosted. "Connect the other end of the second jumper cable (negative) to the engine mounting bolt as shown (in diagram). Do not connect this jumper cable to any other part."
Now I know, thanks Doc.
So, did AAA do anything special while boosting the vehicle, that you couldn't have done yourself?