To close this topic. Been at the service yesterday. Mechanic cleaned EGR. Said the 'holes' were almost closed. Now car works. Have to keep an eye on it for a few days, but it seems this was the main issue. Yesterday it also changed oil and fuel filter, and the engine oil. He also recommended using the cheapest E590 fuel, not the most expensive.
What do you think is the problem now?
You have a car with a problematic engine. Is the mileage real?
https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/13-01-01_faq_ad-engine_eng.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YolzcFFshAs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0Dx9JQrpzM (the video has also English subtitles)
And is there any hope for me with this car?
I personally would rather get rid of it
I don't know how to replace the oil filter, yet.
Perhaps you find this video helpful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpND2FxDoRs
Thank you for your reply. I am afraid the idea of getting rid of it is more attractive than ever.
Anyway, after a few more tests i have this idea: maybe the problem is the 'arctic' diesel fuel i added before the most recent problems began. This would explain why in a cold morning at 0 Celsius the problem is only slightly present, while in the afternoon, at +10 C the problem is much more present. Assuming it's the fuel, is there any oil or another additive that would make the diesel fuel more friendly with +10C or +20C temperatures? I have about 25 liters of fuel left. The alternative of course is to dump it and put 'normal' diesel fuel in it.
@cpanceac you are welcome.
There are additives for bad fuel. You can fill it with regular diesel fuel and add an anti-gelling additive. I'm not familiar what is avaliable in your country.
Thank you G.T. . Yesterday i went for a 320 km trip and at times, the car seemed to work fine (at 100 kmph, 2700 RPM). The problems came back once i get back to town and had to stop the car at crossroads and start moving again. Also, it did not seem to help adding 35 L of regular diesel over the 'arctic' fuel that apparently triggered that problem. Right now i'm wondering if this is just a clogged fuel filter. I know the air filter needs to be changed but all these are planned to be changed next Monday together with the engine oil .
Another test i did: i disconnected the MAF sensor and drove the car for a few minutes: no perceptible change in the power of the car or in the black smoke output. Only the 'engine' warning on dashboard. Sensor looks clean, could it be still defective? Or maybe the ECU needs some updates? Again, with our cheap-er testers, no errors were found in the car.
@cpanceac a faulty MAF sensor or/and ECU can also cause such problems. Have you performed a compression test? Do you experience hard starts, losses of power, engine stalling? In such case it could be also a clogged fuel filter.
Well yes, right after starting to move, the car has no power. I press accel pedal and nothing happens (except the bumpy ride). After a few minutes, the problem is almost gone but, after that long trip two days ago, after going a little bit uphill at lower RPM, at next start the problem was back again, at start (low RPM). Once i reach above 2000 RPM, the car is almost ok. One thing i want to do today is replace the air filter. I don't know how to replace the oil filter, yet.