First Scotty I'm a subscriber and watch your videos and broadcasts regularly, I trust your opinion over the dealership and you may or may not be able to provide a idea into what is going on. Figured I would ask you before having the dealer diagnose due to the crazy amount it's going to cost just for a diagnosis.
2015 Hyundai genesis Coupe 3.8 Automatic with 70,000 miles
Was running fine. Stopped at local Sheetz to fill up with gas. Left Sheetz and a short distance later the car cut off, steering wheel lost power steering and CEL came on so I pulled to side of the road. About a minute later I was able to start the car again but the CEL stayed on. A bit later the car stalled again and again I was able to start it again and drive it again before stalling again. This happened about 4 or 5 times but allowed me to be able to get it home and parked. The car sat overnight and cooled off. Since then the only things that Ive been able to get the car to do is get it to crank but not start, crank it and it start and then immediately die, and a couple times I've been able to start it and rev it for 10 seconds or so before it started to sputter and maybe backfire before it dies. Never have been able to start it and let it idle. Bought a code scanner, scanned it and it read P0638, P0560, P2106, P2110. I took some throttle body cleaner and cleaned the throttle body and that did not fix the problem, so I bought a new throttle body and that did not fix the problem. Since then I've checked the fuel for water, checked the pressure in the low pressure fuel pump (pumps prob 16 oz in about 10 seconds or so) Checked pressure on high pressure pump (loosened the nut at the fuel rail connection slightly and fuel sprayed out under a good amount of pressure. Checked the fuses for continuity and made sure power was getting to fuses, checked relays and made sure they were being activated when power was provided, and I even removed the after market remote start system (I traced the wires back to the original connection points) Individually checked the crank position sensor and both cam position sensors (replaced all three one at a time) Changed the MAF sensor, checked for voltage at all 6 coil connections. Charged and checked the battery. Checked for spark with a spark tester light....lights up only when car starts briefly...doesn't light up when cranking but no start. I've cleared the codes several times and rechecked and the the only code that has always been there was the P0560 code. Sometimes the actuator codes will come back up if I'm able to rev the engine a bit or if I mash the gas pedal after getting it to briefly start. If I don't mash the gas pedal the only code is the 0560. Most of the time after the car starts and immediately dies I smell fuel vapors outside of the vehicle. This car has a push button start. The thing is that if the car sputtered and knocked off I would conclude it was the fuel pump not providing pressure, or the car being starved of air but when this car stops it cuts off like the ignition is getting cut....no sputtering before knocking off or anything......almost like each cylinder fires one time before dying completely. This car has an ECM, a TCM, and a fuel injector modulator box that looks an awful lot like a small ECM.
I apologize for the length but I wanted to spell out everything as it is happening. Any ideas at all at what might be going on? The one thing I don't want to get into is replacing part
Well this all happened after you fill it up with gas I would first take a sample of the gasoline and see if it's got water or other impurities in it I've had that happen to many of my customers
Thanks Scotty....yeah I've done that. It was mid grade...pumped a pint out via low pressure hose and let it sit. No water or any other impurities that I can tell. My first thought was fuel pump or clogged fuel filter but it's pumping plenty of fuel at the low pressure line at the high pressure connection. Checked for spark today by putting plug in coil and grounding jumper cable to frame and then connected it to metal shaft of plug. Some times it would spark one time when the engine fired, but other times there was no spark created at all after 10 seconds of cranking. I checked for injector operation by putting a piece of paper over the plug hole.....the one time I did this I didn't get any fuel mist on the paper. Just crazy that the car was in limp mode when all of this started, but once the motor cooled off all there has been is cranking and no start, cranking and brief start before dying (prob one cycle) or a couple times a crank, start, and rev for 5-10 seconds before dying. Not sure whether it's a fuel restriction, a fire restriction or both. Really aggravating. Thanks
That P0560 code is being thrown because the computer isn't seeing (battery) voltage to its battery power supply backup pin. When that happens the car won't run. (or will start and die)
If you're positive that your battery is good and there's no issues at the battery connections to the alternator and fuse boxes, and the grounds, AND that 10 amp ECU fuse or the wire going from that fuse to the ECU's battery backup terminal is good, then you may suspect a problem in the alternator.
