2013 dodge dart multiair turbo 1.4 liter 112000 miles kept the car very well maintained. Recently got check engine light and had AutoZone scan it gave me cylinder 3 oil supply solenoid stuck. And also code to change upstream O2 sensor. The problem I was having is when I stepped hard on the gas it would hesitate to acccell but eventually would. I just changed the O2 sensor car drives very good. No misfire always starts no rough idle just except once I hit almost 5 rpm it'll hesitate a little and only when I'm above 40mph. I Did some research and the solenoid on these cars have to be replaced with a whole new multi air brick "thing". My question is is there anyway to get the solenoid unstuck maybe a oil flush or something? The multi air brick is about 1k $ new and I refuse to let any shop work on my car from past experiences and the cost. And recordation?? Been wanting to reach out but iknow you probably get so many questions didn't think you'd get to mine but hopefully you will don't want to spend 1k on this stupid part for just a stuck solenoid
You can try a motor flush it doesn't hurt. While I have no experience with this car I have watched videos of people having issues like this and having success. Scotty talks about 505 cro alot and that seems to work. I've used liqui moly engine flush and had good results with other vehicles in past. Stp makes a synthetic engine flush I heard some good things about it. Just make sure you follow the instructions. When I use any type of flush I also buy a few qts of cheap oil that the car uses and poor it through after draining. This will help remove more stuff caught in pan and more of the flush solution. If the oil isn't expensive I will use that oil in car after the flush drive around for a couple minutes drain that oil and do my regular oil change. This helps to clear out alot more build up and debris along with the flush .
Okay yeah I'm just kinda hoping that the flush will get to the solenoid that's stuck and free it sounds like my only option besides replacing the whole multi air brick
And the other option I saw someone on YouTube had a good scanner hooked up to the car and was able to manually test the solenoids open and closing them idk if I could find one of those scanners to maybe try to get it unstuck
I forgot something important. This code can be caused by dirty oil and low oil. When was last oil change. Yes if you have a bidirectional scan tool with those features you can do a actuation test . It is Possible it could work.. You might have to take everything apart and see if you can free it up. I
Man I wish it was bc oil right when I noticed the problem 2 months ago that's the first thing I did oil change. Then cleaned the throttle body cleaned the intake and turbo with crc intake turbo cleaner. Change the air filter. Cleaned the maf sensor with crc maf sensor cleaner. Wiped the intake dry and clean. Then replaced the upstream O2 sensor. it was really bad... So yeah I've done a lot to unfortunately have to buy a new fckn multi air brick. But I'm gonna try and see if a friend has the scan tool to check solenoids if not engine flush. Ppl online have said the solenoids don't come out of the brick but wondering if maybe they do.... Or if the wiring is bad maybe hopefully
But from your professional opinion my only options are try the scan tool to manually free the solenoid or engine flush??
But from your professional opinion my only options are try the scan tool to manually free the solenoid or engine flush??
If you brought me your car, i would try this.
1. Try a flush. Sometimes it works with. It mostly depends on the design of the unit a d if carbon or sludge is the cause.
2. Change oil. The fresh oil change may help free it up.
3. Use a scan tool if that is a option. The actuation of the solenoid at times frees them up.
4. Remove assembly , take it apart and clean by hand.
5. Last resort. Start car and hit unit a bunch of times. This actually works at times.
freeing it up may only work for a short period of time. It comes down to the cause . Replacement maybe the only real option in the end.
I kinda know someone who works for Dodge. I'll give him a call and see if there is a work around. Or if there is something you can do to free it up. Once I talk to him I'll let you know what he says.
So I spoke to someone who has alot more knowledge then me with this system. He thinks you will have to replace the whole unit. You can try to removing the multiair and inspect it and try spraying a little cleaner in the solenoids. He doesn't believe a flush and oil change will help since the cause is almost always a failed part but can work if the cause is build up. He never used a scan tool to actuate the solenoids and isn't sure if the car will let you but if your able to it might work. Again thats only if nothing failed and is sticking from build up.
He thinks your best bet is getting a used unit with low mileages from a totaled car. Make sure the unit doesn't come from a car with engine damage. He also said a specialty tool should be used to compress the springs but can work around it.
In the end it appears it all comes down to what the cause is. Is it just sticking from sludge and carbon build up or did something fail and needs to be replaced.. using a scan tool can be a option only if car and obd lets you do it. Installation does require special tools but it is possible to do the job with out them. I'm not sure how difficult it will be or how its even done.
Wait you said in one option start the car and hit the back of the solenoid itself hoping it gets freed up? Should I have the car at 2000 rpm? Or just idle
Idle. This is a hail Mary . To be 100% honest the chances of it working is around 1 or 2% . But a slim chance is still a chance. If it's sticking because it's failing it probably won't work and if it did it doesn't solve the actual issue. It might just buy you a little time.
Oh boy okay thanks man appreciate it
Try resetting the ECU or replacing the MultiAir control unit - it's usually electronics.
If it's not electronics but the actual mechanical components it can require cleaning the oil channels inside of the engine and that's very expensive.
Also service the MutliAir filer - a clogged filter can cause the system to not function correctly or fail.
once I hit almost 5 rpm it'll hesitate a little
Don't hit 5k rpm on a 10 year old Fiat.
Also, this genuinely sounds more transmission related - try shifting manually.
These 6 speed Hyundai transmissions are pretty solid when serviced properly but they definitely can "hesitate" and shift slowly at high rpm.
I have a 2013 dodge dart. Transmission was replaced and paid for by warranty thank God, at 90k miles. Charged warranty 7gs for that fucker So that's brand new still. And Ive unplugged thee battery from the car doesn't that reset the ecu? And multi air control untit? Is that the multi air brick ? That's my last resort bc that's 1k for just the part
The transmision should not have went out - were you racing that budget compact? have you been replacing the fluid?
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It's hard to find concrete information on repairing the MultiAir system if you do not read Italian
https://21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com/2018/08/02/re-establishing-oil-flow-in-multi-air-brick-after-long-term-storage/
I mean it's definitely the stuck solenoid I haven't had any check engine light for transmission issues. From the research I've done the trans on these go at around 100k but it shifts fine just when I step on the gas an go over almost 5rpm it'll hesitate a little
I mean it's definitely the stuck solenoid I haven't had any check engine light for transmission issues. From the research I've done the trans on these go at around 100k but it shifts fine just when I step on the gas an go over almost 5rpm it'll hesitate a little