I drive a 2013 dodge avenger sxt, 3.6 liter with 187,000 miles. This is my largest expense in my young life so I've done my best to change oil regularly, keep tires inflated, change fluids etc. this large issue I've had is my engine stalling occasionally. A couple years ago it would stall randomly in numerous settings, on the interstate, in the city, speeding up, slowing down. A jump start would not start the engine, but after 15 minutes to an hour or longer it would start up again without much resistance, and drive seemingly fine right after. I've had pcm module reprogrammed, and a few other services until they finally replaced my spark plugs and the engine didn't stall again for nearly two years. Last week, I was taking my car on a 9 hour trip and it stalled 2 hours and 45 minutes in. It happened to stall driving through a small town, and a nice gentleman who owned the local shop looked at it immediately (after a jump would not turn over the engine). He towed the car to his shop and 45 mins after it stalled it started in his garage with no problem. He cleaned a manifold connected to the engine that he said was loose from the engine and collected dirt and debris, which would prevent plugs from within the manifold from receiving the connection from the engine. He said he was 50/50 on whether I should make the rest of the trip and I made it to my destination seven hours later with no more stalling. On the drive back, at about the same point of time 2 hours and 45 minutes in, the car stalled on the interstate. It started again 15 minutes later, and I made it the rest of the way home. I wonder if the time period the car dies is related, but years ago it didn't take much driving before an occasional stall. The last mechanic who saw it i mentioned earlier said he would guess crank sensor if it stalled again. I'm super frustrated as all mechanics have heard before, I bought a newer car (in 2018 a 2013) and like to go on road trips but this stalling issue is a large problem. When the car stalls the steering also fails and sometimes the brakes. Thanks to any advice someone can give me, cheers.
Seriously consider having it scanned for codes to see what's really going on, then go from there.
There's one code for a minor emission leak in hose that's it
Are you saying after it stalls you can get the starter to Crank but the engine just won't start? (Crank/No Start)
Or are you saying that after it stalls you can't get the starter to Crank?
(No Crank/No Start)
Crank/no start
That's what I thought I just wanted to be sure.
The problem with your 3.6 Avenger is everything is so hard to get to. So testing for spark at the COP coils or testing the wiring connectors at the injectors is really a pain.
Even your battery is a pain to get to.
The fact that it's an intermittent issue means that you are going to have to be the guy to to figure what's happening even if you aren't the guy who can fix it.
At least you can tell a mechanic what's happening so buy yourself a cheap $50 scanner and a $10 test light because you need to see if you're getting an RPM signal during those Crank/No Starts and you may need to troubleshoot the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) Relay sockets. The Automatic Shut Down Relay does exactly what its name says. If the computer loses the crankshaft position sensor signal (RPM signal) it thinks the engine isn't turning so it kills power to the fuel pump circuit, the fuel injectors, and the ignition coils. ((so, Engine Stall and then Crank/No Start)).
Most people never listen for it but you'll want to familiarize yourself with the sound of the fuel pump running for a couple of seconds when you turn the key to ON/Run (not Start).
Once you're familiar with that sound you can listen for it during the next NO Start episode.
If you hear it that will confirm that the computer is able to control the ASD relay and that the wiring from the computer to the ASD relay and the relay itself are OK.
These, 1st couple of seconds when the key is turned to On/Run to pressurize the fuel rail is the only time that the computer will energize the ASD relay without an RPM signal from the crankshaft position sensor.
So let's say it stalls and you can get it to the side of the road. You turn the key to On/Run and you hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple of seconds. The next thing you'll do is to plug in the scanner (Live Data) and look for an RPM value. Maybe a couple hundred rpms or so. You need that RPM signal to re-energize the ASD relay so the stuff I listed above gets Power to them during Cranking/Running.
If you see 0 RPMs on the scanner during cranking then you'll have to check the crankshaft position sensor and its wiring to see why there's no RPM signal getting to the computer while the engine is turning.
Anyway, in the meantime between these stalling episodes you may just want to replace that ASD relay with a new one. They're cheap enough and maybe all this is being caused by a faulty relay.
Your ASD relay is located in the relay box behind the TIPM.
Here's the ASD relay socket pinout:
If you connect the alligator clip of the test light to that Negative battery cable jumper connector under the hood, and then probe relay sockets 30 and 86 the test light should light up for both of them.
Then connect the test light's alligator clip to the Positive battery cable jumper connector under the hood and probe relay socket 85. When the key is turned to On/Run the test light should light up for a couple of seconds and then go out.
Next, repeat that test while cranking the engine. The test light should remain on the entire time during cranking (crank it for around 10 seconds just to be sure).
If all that's happening then that brings you to relay socket 87. It goes out to the TIPM and feeds the fuses for those circuits I listed above so if everything above checked out OK there may be a problem in the TIPM.