I have a 1974 F 100 automatic ( guessing C6 ) with a 390 6.4l
I have removed the old leaking fuel pump. My most pertinent question is about lining the lever of the pump up correctly. If I have the ignition rotor pointed at the contact for cylinder number one on the distributor cap, and the pump slips easily into The block, am I good to go ahead and bolt it in? Or is there any chance at all that I don’t have the lever inserted right?
This truck has an air conditioner and power steering. The power steering is mounted directly under the compressor for the AC. If I could get that power steering bracket off, I could see what I’m doing a lot better. But I can’t tell if The power steering bracket is separate from the AC bracket. It’s not worth it if I have to remove the compressor to get that power steering bracket off. Is anyone familiar with removing the power steering bracket while not disturbing the AC?
Thanks in advance for any help !
I know when I've replaced mechanical fuel pumps they've just bolted right in place, though I have not done it on that Ford engine. From what I understand some of the old GM stuff has a pushrod between the cam and pump that has to be positioned correctly. Unless you have something like that it should just bolt on especially if the engine has not been turned over in the meantime.
I do have a Chilton manual that covers domestic models 1965-1972. For Ford V8 engines the instructions to R&R the fuel pump just say to remove the old one and bolt on the new one, cleaning the mating surfaces and using a new gasket with oil-resistant sealer. The 1974 model should be the same since the 390 goes back well before that year.
E@chucktobias thank you for your answer. I could not get the new fuel pump in place. I have the Chilton manual as well. Somewhere I have the Haynes. Can’t seem to find it at the moment. The new pump lever is so stiff, I could not move it to orient it the way the old one came out. That started me down a YouTube rabbit hole. One video said you have to find TDC to install the new pump. With the ignition pointed toward cylinder one, I am either at TDC or at the bottom of the stroke. That’s where I am now. I’m a little bit afraid to just bolt it on and start it up.
The lever presses against an eccentric on the cam. If you can turn the engine to get the eccentric on its lowest spot, putting the least pressure on the lever, it may be easier to install the pump. I don't know if that corresponds to TDC. Unlike a distributor, with the fuel pump there is no timing involved.
Recent experience at least in the AMC community has been that most of the available mechanical fuel pumps are Chinese-made junk that fail quickly, sometimes almost immediately.
@chucktobias I found my Haynes manual. That’s exactly what it says. “You may have to rotate the engine until the eccentric is at it’s low position to facilitate easier fuel pump installation” I started by bumping the engine with the starter a little at a time and trying to get the pump to line up. I don’t know if I’m at TDC, or at the trough of the stroke. However, this is the only position so far I have been able to get the pump to go in and line up with the bolt holes. My eyesight is not so great, and I can’t tell what’s going on by shining a light in the mounting hole. I’m with you, worrying that the mechanical pump is just junk. Maybe I should get an electric fuel pump kit
If you can get someone to help there one of you can rotate the engine while the other observes via the pump arm when the eccentric is at its minimum position.
An electric pump is a possibility, but for safety you need to have an impact/position sensitive switch to shut the pump off in the event of a collision or rollover. For AMC applications it's been reported that the Korean-made GMB-brand mechanical pumps are OK. (I have not had to replace a mechanical pump myself in a long time, fortunately. A lot of the AMC pumps are dual-action with a booster for the windshield wipers and those are pretty much unobtainium.)
@chucktobias Thank you. Waiting until I get a helper seems like the best idea.
After further research, I have to insert the lever from the top of the hole downward to clear an actuator and get the end of the lever under the cam eccentric. To test if the lever is positioned correctly, turn the crank Pulley slowly clockwise And feel for suction on the intake of the pump.
The hardest part of this for me is getting Bolt screwed in on the right side. It's a tight space, and part of the Bolthead is obscured behind the pump. It was easy to take out with a socket on a U joint adapter. Getting it started back in and making sure it's not cross Threaded Is a bit more challenging.
It would've been so helpful to get the power steering bracket off and out-of-the-way. I removed the three bolts That mount it to the Front of the block, but You can't get it off without removing the AC compressor. Way more than I wanted to deal with.
Wishing my truck was an i6 With a manual three speed, But a friend gave it to me, and beggars can't be choosers