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Misfire cylinder #1

  

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Topic starter

I have a 2006 mustang v6 with a misfire on cylinder 1, I replaced the coils, cables, spark plug, and fuel injector. Still no luck. The car runs rough when it’s warmed up has a tapping and clicking noise during idle as well as a crank noise when accelerating faster than normal. It runs perfect once I’m on the freeway. Not sure what else to try. Also it has about 180k miles 


A few days after getting serpentine belt replaced is when all this happened forgot to add that.


6 Answers
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try a compression test

 


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https://www.autocodes.com/p0301_ford.html


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Posted by: @noblecrook777

Coils, cables, spark plug, fuel injector, and oil is the same 5W-30 as it’s been but I was recommended Castrol GTX 10-40 for how many miles on it.

Who told you to change the oil to a heavier weight? Unless your owner's manual says it's ok, you're wearing your engine out unnecessarily with heavier than specified oil. Using 10 weight in a 5 weight winter number is causing extra wear on start-up and while warming up. It takes longer for that oil to flow to the entire engine. Then, it's thicker than recommended when it's hot, which is causing more wear. 

My 1999 Ranger's pushing 300k miles and I have never changed to heavier oil than 5W-30. That was ok 40 years ago when American engines could run on a wide range of oils. Not today. They're specifically designed to take one oil across the range of weather and operating temps. 


The oil was just a recommendation I haven’t done that. I’m still planning on using 5-30


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Have you changed the oil and filters after every 5000 miles or so too? If not, that may be the reason from what I know right now.


Yes just recently did it


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How about reporting back with some codes?  Try swapping the coil and then an injector with a known, good cylinder to see if the misfire moves.


I did that yesterday code still 301


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What was done last in the car? Are you consistent in your oil change? Are you using the recommended oil for the car? It seems you're having issues with your valves or valve cups. Timing issues too may be responsible for that but do a compression test first. 


Coils, cables, spark plug, fuel injector, and oil is the same 5W-30 as it’s been but I was recommended Castrol GTX 10-40 for how many miles on it.


If you're using the recommended oil type probably it's the valve cups or timing issues that's causing it.


Had timing chain fixed about 6 months before this issue happened. The issue seems. To fix itself if I drive for a long period of time. Doesn’t like to be idling or low speeds below 30. Still trying to figure out what it could be. Mainly trying to save up to get an entire engine rebuild since it’s around 180k miles.


Get a full scan of the car to see what you find as well as a compression test.


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