Well get yourself a phoenix injector reverse flow bleeding device. They make it cheaper plastic version that doesn't cost the 250 that the metal one mechanics like myself use. That pushes the air from the bottom you connect it to the slave and you open it at the master and it will get the air out believe me

Like Scotty said, do a reverse bleed like we do on motorcycle brakes.  Force fluid from the bleed nipple back up into the reservoir.

I set mine so that the clutch pressure plate engages the disc when the pedal is about 3/4 of the way up its travel.  That way, I know I'm not riding on the throw out bearing and the clutch is fully engaged.

If this is voice to text, it's not working.  Could you please try to describe your problem again so it can be understood?  Thank you.

The shifter gets harder into first gear when it warms up on the only setting that disengages normally.

im talking about the clutch throw limit, and stiffer shift into first gear after warms up when you set the clutch throw limit to disengage properly without clunking. my own adjustment got it to redline nice but problem is it wont downshift as easy on the manufacturer's short stroke now. It's got a long rod adjustment stroking to much fluid that will make it clunk after giving it gas then shifting as explained by exedy. on the right rod adjustment it can become stiffer when shifting into first from a stand still. no american knows how to adjust a skyline rod cause you have to drive it around to find where it works as i've done. i've bled and done extensive work for years now, tried a nismo slave and pedal bracket, and went back to al stock recently with new parts to see the same thing where it can't stroke to much fluid or will clunk when shifting. I looked into the rubber damage on my steering column rubber and feel hmmm it used to stop at a different point and not hit that rubber. I have a OEM rubber stopper in it now in the hole in the clutch pedal from the factory.

the disengagement problem initially happened when goodyear overlengenthed the rod past the throw limit, i mistyped somethings.

Good evening ladies and gentlemen

I'm having trouble bleeding my hydraulic clutch lines on my 94 nissan skyline GTST with 70k miles

Mistakenly my r34 master cyl ran dry while gravity bleeding-sucked to much air in and made a hell of a job.

It also has a snapped bleeder screw from weeks ago so I had to remove it and put back my original series 1 master.

Highlight: With the bone dry series 1 master back on with air still everywhere in the lines, the pedal is sucking itself to the floor even when the bleeder screw is closed. It does shoot out fluid when I open the clutch master cyl. bleeder valve back up. It's being impossible to prime now, and I can't get back to gravity bleeding the slave and damper line.

I ended it up having to extend my adjustment for the bleeding so it didn't suck itself back in once it started to not suck in all the way when the screw was closed.

Because of my three way clutch line with a damper it's physically impossible for a random garage to do it that doesn't know about each bleeder screw.

Good evening Mr. Kilmer

I've had a harder shift sometimes since 106,000KM now just hit 118,000KM. Now I got the clutch stroke as short as when the car was built, except once 2 hours of driving why can it get harder to shift into first gear? I'm now running Peak DOT4 brake fluid and if i extend the master cylinder stroke anymore I will get a release bearing vibration when releasing the clutch, and It will not go into reverse easy, and still not downshift into second better no matter what.

IT GETS A STIFFER FEELING INTO FIRST A SLIGHT BIT AFTER A LENGTHY DRIVE NOW.

Some people fix the throw limit with a stop pad and talk about the inevitable damage that happens on the wrong adjustment. It is impossible to get perfect for me.

The shift will be stiff into the next gear if you try to shift to fast a lot of times when not on the perfect throw/ disengagement setting.

The car is a 93 R33 nissan Skyline GT with 72k miles