I purchased a rb25det series 1 skyline with 105k km and soon after the car had a shifting issue after i realized the clutch pedal was sticking halfway. I got past the bad MAF sensor, and remained with a sticky pedal that got hard before.
Good year adjusted my clutch master cylinder to stop the sticking then a new problem happened.
The drive shaft started clunking when shifting. Goodyear spotted my driveshaft clunking on the lift from the u joint closest to transmission after I complained back.
They said get a new driveshaft and wastegate.
Changed entire clutch system except just rebuilt the master piston and don't know what to do.
After watching exedy, i did learn somethings about the "overstroke condition" of too much master travel can cause a disengagement issue.
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It could be a lot of things. You might have a slow leak at the clutch master cylinder, or at the slave cylinder. Fortunately, you have the old style that is accessible without removing the trans. You may have developed a small amount of air in the system which can easily be bled out. With the vehicle sitting for a while, the spring fingers on the pressure plate may have relaxed a bit and taken up a minute amount of slack in the system adjustment between it and the throwout bearing. Lots of possibilities here.
its a new clutch, master, and nismo slave successfully broken in with adjusting saving the day.
Either pressure bleed or use a Mighty Vac suction device to remove all air.
You can get the service manual here : http://www.skyline.se/dokument/
You may find this forum helpful https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/where-can-i-find-the-original-r33-owners-manual.103940/
The japan owner's manual is long gone, and the cap on the r33 is blank.
The same master's who figured out brass synchroes don't last with synthetic transmission oil know this.
Due to the heat properties not right after an hour of driving, I've seen enough of modern dot 3 and dot 4.
Wasn't this question answered yesterday?
You are correct! Topics merged.
What, exactly is your question now? Could you please carefully type out and proof read your copy so we can make some sense out of it? Thank you. If you're trying to use talk to text, it is NOT working.
It's been impossible. How do you find the right adjustment without driving it? What do you do if you don't know if this variant has a stop pad? Why is it so difficult to set this models clutch controller correctly?
Clutch disengagement problems can be -
Incorrectly adjusted clutch pedal push rod, and incorrect pedal height
Master cylinder leaks or low fluid
Slave cylinder leaks
I would advise using a marine grease lube as it is waterproof. I like the Lucas Marine tube
It's probably more likely that the pressure plate springs are worn out an you need a new clutch package. If that's not the case, go down to your local hardware store and buy a new spring that matches as closely as possible to the old one. Do you have the old one?
I changed the whole system Doc, I just went 90 mph with the old sticky adjustment i bought the car with, full redline with a new factory boost solennoid was nice.
Thinking of rigging any random farmers spring, cause you gotta relive the pressure eventually to shift back into first gear.
Go for it. If it works, it's good!
Dot 3 is for 3 for the most part so that shouldn’t really be of concern . What kind of shape is the clutch/throw out bearing in? If beginning to wear down then temp could be a factor for issues
The brand new parts are as they came. Deemed to not be the issue as soon as they went in.
I am waiting on a new R34 master cylinder to try, and I could get one new rubber clutch line only.
The only way to get some stuff is sea freight.
What does the manufacturer recommend?
Wish I knew. There is no real manual in english.
Australia reccomendeds non syntehtic brake fluid and transmission fluid.
There is no manual in English? You never said anything about the vehicle we need to help you. Year, make, model, engine size, etc. If you can't get it in English, call the dealer and ask, or fire up Google Translate and get it in English.
It's a 94 skyline with rb25det, What many englishmen thought is not right. No dealer knows a thing about the car.
What does the brake reservoir/master cylinder cap say?
Hope this helps -
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363101-what-type-of-clutch-fluid-does-a-r33-gtst-take/
Probably just DOT3.
Make sure you have properly bled the hydraulic clutch system of air. It may not be disengaging properly for first gear engagement.
If it's not disengaging properly, you need more stroke (longer push rod adjustment.)
What's the reason my clutch stroke changed while not being driven for months.
My father's 94 RX7 never required a single adjustment.
Can pressure bleeding get more air out when gravity bleeding can't? such as a trapped air bubble
I got a Nissan Skyline GT r33 with 116k KM on it, my next step is to either continue pressure bleeding or, edit the adjustment to send slightly more clutch fluid. Also I have redone my clutch line and cylinders from top to bottom and there is no leak.
That guide is for the r32. The diagram uses a stopper for all these cars, but I got it without it maybe.
whats most painful is it not releasing the same as day one with a short stroke flying.
It got a hard clutch pedal before and had to power down before in a 100 degree carmax parking lot just arriving for some BS.
You would normally have to replace the clutch cable-the mechanism that makes the clutch move. Check the linkage system within it as well.
This question, about this vehicle was answered multiple times 3 days ago.
Indeed, I'll merge topics again for the second time regarding the clutch on this car...
I usually adjust the clutch pedal push rod so the clutch starts to engage about 3/4 of the way all the way up.
In this car it cant have to much dead space, except just enough to shift smooth may fix the problem.
You've now been asking about your clutch for over one year. Happy anniversary!
I've counted about a dozen posts (and another dozen or so for your turbo).
Man you bought a very old racing type Nissan that really probably has been ridden hard and put up wet as they say about horses. Try to find a skyline pro and see what he says me I would start by just getting a new master and a new slave and praying that fixes
Hello, I'm trying to recover from a hard gear change with a manual skyline transmission.
What would you reccomend to lubricate the same driveshaft yoke after a rebuild and center spline balance?
Hello community, I'm stuck on poor clutch disengagement at redline.
What are all the cures for this problem, after trying the clutch and flwheel, and slave cylinder?
What does it mean when some cars work normally if you press the clutch super slowly when disengaging, when on the stock longest master cylinder throw setting?
I think you mean engagement, not disengagement. When you press the clutch pedal down, you are disengaging the clutch disc from contact with the flywheel. By red line, do you mean revving it up to 6000 rpm and engaging the clutch? Why would anybody want to do this anyway, unless your at a drag strip and have a special racing clutch setup?
I'm talking about if you press the clutch at 6000-7000 to shift to the next gear, disnegages like garbage, and i heard it run clean before, and synchroes all worked clean one run before my new clutch with a slow clutch press to shift to the next gear.
If that's the case, look at the clutch master and slave cylinders for function and possible air in the system. Also check the physical linkage and adjustment at the pedal. If these don't help, then there was something done wrong with the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing or pivot arm.
It had the problem with the original clutch, i did not change the fork, just rebuilt my master and replaced everthing else including the crank spigot bearing, pivot ball and rear main seal.
yoke u joint clunking and bad shift jam noise when pressing the clutch when shifting too the next gear at redline answers?
What is the possibility. I have u joints and a new rear seal coming soon.
Ive done a full clutch/flywheel rebuild except for the fork, and lines. still not a new master, but rebuilt it and changed the slave.