Sure sticking yolks off and do that

nissan skyline gtst 1994 with 115k km

What is the best method to bleed a rusty clutch system properly,

just draining it forever and filling work?

What does the company do originally, reverse injection? how do you do that?

Heck you can suck most of it out of the reservoir with the turkey base they're putting new fluid and then bleed it normally by opening the clutch cylinder on the bottom on the slave and do that a couple times it'll get most of the crud out

Hello everyone, I got through 100 oz of fluid and the system is still not bled.

If there might be a leaking line or damper connector, where would go you?

I just use a Mighty Vac to bleed mine, or get the old lady to do it the old fashioned way, pump and hold.  The brakes, that is.

Hello everyone I have a R33 nissan skyline GTST with a hard blow off 6000 or more rpms.

The car cant disengage correctly at low rpms unless you set the master cylinder throw really short. On a working original adjustment I got the car with,the clutch pedal doesn't return fully by itself unless you pull it back with your foot the rest.

Wierd right?

I have in the car a new clutch, flywheel, pivot ball, release bearing, Nismo slave cylinder, clutch line, and rebuilt master cylinder.  The brand new 98 master still hasn't shipped yet.

Obviously the master cylinder has a problem they don't rebuild very well and that's what puts it back up

I need to replace a 94 nissan skyline GT clutch pedal spring that they don't make anymore,

Last decade my clutch pedal started not returning fully.

I had just bought the car a month before this, and had to pull it back with my foot to shift into first one day, after clutch pedal got hard over a speed bump at carmax.

Hello, I have a bone stock manual 94 nissan skyline GTST manual with 115k km.

I recently found out where to set the clutch throw limit, but after  an hour of driving in the heat it's not easy to shift into first gear. It runs really well before everything gets extreme temperature.

If I extend the old short disengagement it will not disengage properly at redline.

I'm running Lucas Dot3 brake fluid in the old clutch lines, with a small amount of nissan Dot3 right now.

I'm running a rebuilt master cylinder, nismo slave cylinder, all new oem clutch and flywheel setup without a new fork only.

Was thinking about ATE super blue racing, but that still may not get the fluid to run how it used to.

Well, we got the year and the model, how about the MAKE?  Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Buick, VW, Audi, Hyundai, Kia, etc, etc?

I've got a r33 at 116k KM now, 

I got it with a clutch pedal not returning fully, like the old 1962 austin healey.

Shifting gets stiffer one day, and if you extend the throw to stop sticking, it gets the overstroke condition and clunks when shifting.

A new r34 Master didn't do anything except was set on the overstroke conditon and feel horrible when on a long release.

What would you do if you got a new driveshaft and clutch system to realize the same thing?

Everything is discontinued, so no pedal spring or master to compare to.

I got a r33 nissan Skyline GT with 116k km, 

Months ago, I had just adjusted the clutch master cylinder to stroke just the perfect amount of fluid to shift into first gear smoothly when sitting still and not going to far to the overstroke condition. I redlined perfectly after that, and now adjustment changed and it wasn't disengaging fully anymore slightly after sitting for a month. Should I try getting more Lucas Dot3? or turn the rod one time to stroke more fluid?

The master is the highest behind the intake manifold, except doesnt allow fast bleeding.

Slave is at the bottom next to the transmission, and theres 2 damper connectors and another u-shaped line with a bleeder screw at the end of a connector.

I've used the brake & cooling versions, they seem to clear the system well.

Amazon has a few dozen options, just be sure to get the correct cap as they won't take back ones you've tested for fit for some reason. The cap kit with all possible versions is around $250.

I have a r33 skyline 1993 with a entire new stock clutch, flywheel, nismo slave, without the clutch fork replaced, since 71000 miles.There is no owners manual to tell me the right clutch adjustment. All my issues stemmed with pedal bracket altering, when the first reason I went there is cause I had a sticky clutch not returning fully on a short adjustment. I have a Nismo pedal bracket in after the weld lier did something to make my pedal bracket snap later. The car worked again with shortening the throw, but to short makes it harder to engage first gear. There was a rubber grommet slot in my pedal I didn't look at until they screwed me, and could never tell if I had one there before.

I have a 93 r33 nissan skyline GT manual with 72k miles on it. 

How would you go about setting the correct clutch throw if it was lost?

It can disengage wrong if it's stroking to much or to little. The last time I redlined good was after putting it right where it allows first gear to engage 100% like silk. But then it changed again, and I'm lost again.

Make sure your slave cylinder isn't leaking.  Loosen the 12mm lock nut on the clutch push rod and turn the shaft to shorten or lengthen it until you can feel the clutch engaging about half the distance of the total pedal travel.

What do you think about some old manual cars with sticky clutch pedals not returning fully, and if you try to extend it, it will return but then do the so called overstroke condition disengaging. Even with a new drivetrain and clutch master cylinder, you can't drive normally and release normally if you dont have the master on the short setting it came on.

My car- Nissan skyline GT 1993' r33 manual 72k US miles

What is the possibility of this?

My master cylinder adjustment requires changes to often right after it was just working.

Do you mean the clutch fork inside the trans or the clutch pivot arm that activates the throwout bearing?

I replaced my pivot ball with a new clutch assembly and flywheel. Even did the rear main seal, and all clutch controllers.

There is an issue I talked about with a 1960s triumph owner where you have to press the clutch slowly to shift without clunking after applying torque while moving. This applies when on a longer clutch master cylinder adjustment trying to get a stiff shifter to work again.

I've done every part and the same thing still remains. I've heard my clutch isn't pulling away the right distance, to press the clutch in slowly to make it work manually. That isn't how my car came, and it feels really wrong trying that.

I have a 1994 nissan skyline GT manual turbo model with 118k KM.

If you have changed every part except the transmission or synchroes, what could it be? 

didnt change the main clutch lines, or connectors yet

If there is no manual for this car's pedal how do you find the correct adjustment. I do suspect a bad line or connector somewhere after trying multiple new masters and slaves from nissan or NISMO.

I have a r33 nissan skyline GT with 118k KM from 08/1993. The transmission has well seen better days. I did the clutch, flywheel, release bearing, pilot, bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder and drive shaft. still requires a shorter clutch adjustment to work at all without clunking the drive shaft when shifting. It always worked its best on a short throw where the clutch pedal isn't returning fully just like a lot of old cars came I've seen around. Still somewhat a stiff shifter if you try to shift to the next gear to quick.