I have a 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0LX with 130k with automatic transmission which I decided to replace the transmission fluid and filter in. I got one of those transmission filter/gasket kits by Fram, with an "ultracork" gasket in it. I was able to find the Mazda tech manual and it said nothing about using a gasket, only to "Apply a light coat of silicon sealant to the contact surfaces of the oil pan and transaxle case." and to torque to 69.5—95.4 in·lbf. Does the same torque spec apply to these new rubbery cork gaskets? Or should I do less? I'm just being cautious and don't want to overdo it.
This silicon sealant is probably like the Toyota FIPG 103 seal packing. It's actually a "form in place" gasket, which hardens into a seal in about 15 minutes. (You can order a tube of FIPG 103 online).
You do have to be careful with this "form in place" gasketing that comes out of a tube. You don't want any of that harden, oil resistant sealant to fall into the transmission pan. The consequences could be devastating for the transmission. (There are YouTube videos about how to apply FIPG 103 onto an oil or transmission pan).
Whether the FIPG is better than the gasket that you bought, well, that depends on the quality of the gasket. One thing is for sure. Make sure that the lip of pan is TOTALLY clean, smooth and free from debris.
As for the torque specs, the manual is the bible.
If you use the cork gasket, start out using the low end of the torque range. If you don't see the gasket deforming, go ahead and tighten all the bolts in the criss cross pattern. You can gradually increase the torque on one of the bolts up to the upper torque limit, if the gasket doesn't move, go ahead and tighten them all criss cross.
The torque isn't critical for pan bolts. It's not a load bearing piece, and it's not subject to any significant fluid pressures.
Just go hand tight with a small ratchet. If you see any seepage later, then tighten it some more.
