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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Got a blue driver for Christmas - what data for preventative maintenance? | 15Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Although he did not use the blue Driver, in Scotty's video today he goes over some of the data you can look for. (Watch him flag a hinky MAF sensor in seconds!) | |||||
| RE: Turning the key doesn't activate the starter. | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Going forward, if you reply to my posts by clicking the red rectangular box under my reply that says "Add a comment" I'll get a notification that you responded when I sign onto the forum . it's a pain to type in the small Add a comment box and if your reply is long, then do it the way you've been doing it but just type something like "responding" in the Add a comment box under my last reply so I get a notification and I'll check in on your question thread . You get notifications of all replies because it's your thread . I only get notifications if there's a direct response to one of my replies . Good that you nailed down that No Start in Park issue . So bear with me. I can't see what you're doing and I don't know everything you've done already so I need to be clear of what voltages you're finding . I glanced over your previous posts on that voltage issue. You said, "The voltage Of fuse #24 and the relay socket 86 the voltage is 3.35" . I'm assuming that you meant to say the voltage on the fuse and relay socket 85 is 3.35 volts . 86 should be the computer provided Ground . 1) So 1st, pull out the Starter Relay. Turn the key to the ON position and measure the voltage (using the negative battery post as Ground) and Starter Relay socket 85 and after that do the same at that fuse. Is there a voltage reading? . 2) Next have somebody hold the key on the Start position and repeat. Check it at relay socket 85 and again at the fuse . If you're finding no voltage there with "Key ON" and only 3.35 volts there with holding "Key Start" then you have to move up in the circuit to the ignition switch . (frankly, I'm surprised that 3.35 volts is enough to energize that starter relay's control coil in the Key Start position and hold it against the return spring in the relay) I'd expect it to be "chattering" as the low voltage is fighting against the relay coil's return spring) . Doesn't matter, electrical circuits only seem normal when everything is working right and 3.35 volts in the Start Position isn't right . So if there's only 3.35 volts at that fuse (Key in Start Position) you can eliminate an issue with the relay socket and the neutral safety switch because the fuse is "upstream" in the circuit from those . 3) The next thing you want to do is "backpin" that Red and blue wire at the Ignition switch. You can use a Tpin or any type of pin. (look in your wife's sewing basket) . You have to backpin the Red and blue wire at the ignition switch connection because you have to measure the voltage with the key held in the Start position so it has to be measured with the connector attached to the ignition switch . Let me know what your findings are to these 3 questions. Understand that we aren't actually measuring voltage drop right now . To do that we have to have the relay's coil being energized (starter relay plugged into its socket) . We're trying to determine, under No Load, where we're losing 12 volts in Key Start position and specifically if it's happening After the ignition switch (ignition switch's output voltage) or Before the ignition switch (ignition switch's input voltage) . With that starter relay unplugged there's no load on the circuit. Your multimeter doesn't put a load on the circuit either . So this isn't a typical voltage drop issue where we measure 12 volts under No Load and then see the Voltage drop when we put the circuit under Load . Regardless, let me know your findings. . If you can't get battery voltage (12 volts + or -) at the starter relay socket 85, the fuse, or the Red and blue wire coming out of the ignition switch, then we have to start checking voltages at the "input side" of the ignition switch | |||||
| Engine misfiring | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | redoty09 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Had problems with my car missing out. My son has an analyzer and found problem with the plugs. We replace all the plugs and coils with blue Streak coils and Motorcraft plugs, on my 2004 Grand Marquis automatic that had 147,000 miles on it. Still had some missing problems. My son has an analyzer and found problem with the plugs. Took it to Ford. 3 times. First time they said the connector on #5 was bad and they replaced it. They also cleaned the throttle body. Got it back and still had problems. Back to Ford. They said coils on 1, 2, 4 were bad. So went to Oreilly's and exchanged them. Still had slight problem. Back to Ford. They said the coils on 1, 2 and 4 were not right, they they were hitting on the fuel rail. So back to Oreilly's. Ended up replacing the mas air flow sensor and the idle sensor myself. Still was not running great. So I remembered Scotty talking about a bad battery not having enough power to run everything, but would start the car okay. So went to Oreilly's and had the battery checked, it was a 4 year old Interstate and it checked bad. Replaced it. After 2 or 3 days the car was running great for the past 3 weeks. When I took the car to Ford the first them, they pointed out that the intake manifold was leaking and I should get it replaced and keep an eye on the leaking for now. So I took it to Ford, blue Springs Ford in blue Springs Missouri to get the manifold replace. Total including labor and parts around $1286.00. Picked it up yesterday and after warming up it started running lousy like before. So I turned around and took it back to Ford and left it. Today April 7th 2021, they called this after noon and told me all the coils needed to be replaced. They replace one on #7 and said it was running better. they wanted $800 to replace them all. In spite of the fact I told them mall had been replaced and the car was running great the past 3 weeks, until they replace the manifold. {black}:pray: Considering the age of the car, could removing all the wiring and everything else to replace the manifold, could the wiring or connectors have been damaged due to the age of the car? | |||||
| Got a blue driver for Christmas - what data for preventative maintenance? | 15Relevance | 3 years ago | wafflecake | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I got a blue driver scan tool for christmas. None of my vehicles have a check engine light but the CEL only triggers if the data is off by ~20%. What data could i check for issues that I may catch before they are severe enough? (Lambda, fuel trims, misfires, etc). And any idea what maintenance I would do to fix those issues? 2004 honda element auto 200k miles 2013 chevy sonic 1.4t auto 70k miles | |||||
| Answer to: Devils Blue Oil Stop | 15Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's snake oil that not only may not work it may cause other problems. If it works at all it would be temporary, it will not actually fix anything. If you intend to keep the truck long term the leak should be properly repaired. | |||||
| Can you help me with my 2000 Camaro SS please? | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | Viniepooh44 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scottie, can you help? Would love to hear your opinion. Half a year ago I bought a 2000 Camaro SS m6. It have a 5.3 iron block with 383 wiesco stroker kit, PRC heads, cam, what I believe to be an ls2 or 3 intake and other supporting modes, which dynoed at 485hp. I drove from TN to MI About 500 miles if not more on it just fine. Then one day I was doing some work on it and drained coolant. When added it back up I messed up and didn’t add as much as I needed. Long story short I wasn’t on highway or anything, near the house when I caught it overheating. Temp went close to 230-240 and I had to make few stops to cool down to get it back home. After that and adding rest of a coolant I began having strange issues. First is that w coolant itself. It seamed to be a never ending adding of it ever since. This is what the first prob. Let’s say you added a coolant to a radiator neck and overflow have it at full cold, then you drive for 100 miles or so and then next morning rad needs another quart to get to where it was, however overflow now at full hot. However if drained back to full cold and added whats extra back to a radiator radiator mark does go up but not all way to where it was before the trip. Another thing I noticed that if those 100 miles were hard driven like these cars should be driven to enjoy then my oil level gets down to a pint. If I drive it gently just cruising no oil is used. Now as Disclaimer when I bought her and drove 500 miles it was a winter and I never was hard on her at all, so I can’t say if this oil thing is some I got her with or not. However coolant was checked before that trip and never needed to be added the next morning. And lastly one last weird thing: because of those issues I been watching both coolant and oil closely for two month checking them after every trip to kinda give myself a statistics. Having said that I prob checked oil 30 times in last 3 month and twice I had a very strange experience w it. On a dipstick right above oil level after about an inch or two away from it closer to the top I have found coolant. Almost like it drips on a dipstick but how? What do you think is happening? Now here are the things I’ve done and their results. I have done compression test twice to different days weeks appart, doing each cylinder 3 times each time, holding each for 4 or 5 strokes. Both times engine was almost cold since after warming it it takes quiet some time to take all plugs off. All cylinders pump almost identically 1 stroke 110ish 2-160ish 3-180s and stoping at around 195-200psi. None is behind others all literally almost identical. Spark plugs to my inexperienced eyes based on online information looked normal though I’ve replaced them anyways. Only one had oil on its thread however the element and tip part of it was identical to the rest of them. I did or should I say tried doing a leakage test. That went inconclusive because as I tried holding that tube above the radiator neck for some reason my test wouldn’t come out as peoples online and I kepped on loosing the liquid down the radiator instead of it staying there and changing or what not color. So that was inconclusive. All I can say is that while holding a tube over the rad as it drained into it it did changed in color from good blue to somewhat of deluded dirty and light blue, almost starting to change to loose that blue vibe. But then again, I never managed to finish the test as intended. I also replaced and tested radiator cap and Replaced overflow tank. I had oil out of car twice in a see through bucket for weeks looking for coolant presence and their separation but nothing at all was found. I was hoping one of them had a leak preventing a pressure build and further preventing a coolant to drain back to radiator. I’ve also pressurized rad by pumping 17 merc in it and watch over it. What I found was that if engine is cold and rest is done then it holds 17 for half hour untill I take it down, however once I ran a test after idling it for 30 min, and it went from 17 to 14 in about 15 min when I stoped the test. I know the law of Pascal but Does it seam normal? So my biggest question is what is going on w it? Could of head gasket been overheated and raptured at the part of it which does not loose compression but does allow coolant to escape? And what is up w inconsistent oil consumption? Could of heads developed a crack? Did I overheat and damage valve guides and seats? Lastly few days ago I stoped driving it because of a third what could appear to be unrelated but (I believe they do) event. You see ever since the overheat, I’ve noticed gradual fuel consumption increase and at idle the car would put out gas smell in garage but all still seamed normal as it is after all build and crammed stroker. However more time went by more fumes it pumped at warm up and recently when I started her up, at some point I could see half of a car let alone breath, even though idle seamed just as it was before. I have a small 50$ scan tool which shows min info, I plugged it in but couldn’t find anything unusual other then what it appeared to me it’s fuel trim and air to fuel ratio was jumping from 13-22 at idle. Vacuum reads 15-16 at idle instead of 20. Both O2s active. Maf changes it’s value gradually w throttle, same as Tps. Haven’t checked IAC. Lastly When I went to raise it, I saw a two coolant drops on bottom of water pump w a trace of them coming from around its pulley. At this point I know I have problems but I don’t exactly know what it is. I know it’s a lot to read but if you’re reading this then you took your time and I appreciate this. Please help with your advise. Thank you | |||||
| Blue coolant temperature light | 15Relevance | 3 years ago | Ethan0815 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Good morning Scotty, I have a 2024 Honda HR-V EX-L 2WD with only 416 miles. Every time I start the car first thing in the morning the blue coolant temperature light comes on for a minute then goes away. Is this normal ? I looked under the hood and coolant level is still full. It only happens on cold startups, once warmed up it doesn't come on. Thanks. | |||||
| Thoughts on 2010 Hyundai Accent Blue | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | carmaneree | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scotty, For my first vehicle, I purchased a 2010 Hyundai Accent blue. It has about 150K miles on it. It has the tall gear ratios and 5 speed transmission. It has crank windows, no power locks, and not a whole lot else. I'm planning on doing the timing belt and water pump soon, along with other incidentals and belts. It's mostly clean underneath, and doesn't burn oil. It runs smoothly and drives straight. I paid 3500. Besides the commonplace coil issue, what else should I look out for on the car? I've heard most people saying that the older Accents were pretty well made. Keep or sell? | |||||
| Answer to: 3 seconds of blue smoke on cold starts. | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Are you losing a significant amount of oil between changes? It's probably worth changing the PCV valve to see if that makes a difference, especially if it's original. blue smoke is generally due to burning oil either due to bad turbo seals, bad valve stem seals, or worn piston rings. There is no magical elixir you can pour into the engine that will fix worn parts and those EcoBoost engines are not known for longevity. If the problem happens to be due to carbon buildup causing stuck piston rings the ATS Carbon Clean treatment Scotty has featured may help. | |||||
| 3rd party auto parts | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | Crell4 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Most regular consumers do not understand the sneaky poop that 3rd party auto parts manufacturers pull on the general public. Besides some of them having up to 3 grades of parts (Service Grade or Economy, Daily Driver and Professional Grades) some manufacturers often will hide their grading system by giving their lower grades a softer name, like "Original" or call the entire line by a different name like Mevotech's "Auto Extra" line they used to have. A long time ago, Mevotech even made their horrible Auto Extra parts look identical to their Supreme X Factor parts with their signature blue grease bulb and some unscrupulous sellers would exchange boxes so they could send out the cheap parts when the customer paid for the Supreme parts (which happened to me). One thing to watch for is what country the parts are made. Ball jointed parts and bearings made in China often do not hold up well and have you doing the repair twice. Not all parts made in China are bad though. It really depends upon the quality control exerted by the manufacturer and by the consignor of the parts AND how diligently the consignor inspects and corrects defects when their parts arrive from China to their facilities. This leads me to another deep, dark and potentially dangerous secret of the 3rd party Chinese-made part (and other parts of Asia) that you need to be aware of; The on-line auction! Ready? Now, I need to preempt this with "this does NOT happen all the time and reputable companies wouldn't do this on purpose", but it still happens more than you'd think. When a load of auto parts that are found to be substandard (ie. not up to snuff) which don't meet the company's quality standards, they often will ask the Asian factory to take them back, however, they rarely go back. They usually work out a deal where the parts end up staying in this country due to the high cost of the return shipping. The Chinese factory usually gives them a mega-deal on the substandard parts or on next "corrected" batch just so they don't have to take them back. So what happens to these substandard parts? Well, it depends on the company of course, but sometimes they're sold in lots to individuals that buy Amazon returns in bulk. Now, unfortunately, these parts are in the hands of someone that doesn't even know what's wrong with them, doesn't care and will sell them as lower cost factory firsts than than legit sellers on Amazon. If it's a generic part with no traceability, it often ends up on Ebay and other auctions. It can also end up on Amazon now that Amazon sells direct from the manufacturer. All this can be good and bad. It really depends on what makes the parts substandard... is the color just off or is there some other visual problem that doesn't affect performance? Or is it a ball and socket that have too much play or are not made uniform and are very prone to premature wear, thus, causing a safety concern? Is the company willing to put out product that may fail? Well, probably not the major players, but some of the smaller unknown companies, especially ones that do not have a traceable box or label on the part often do make it to eBay and Amazon. This is why you need to do your best at recognizing substandard parts out of the box. Inspect the bejeezus out of the part, and if it looks shoddy or bent in shipping or doesn't fit its application... send it right back! On the other side of the coin, you can get excellent deals on these parts if you know what you're doing. If you know how important or unimportant the part is to your safety, and you know how to change it out yourself at low cost, then maybe these parts can work for you? Sometimes reputable sellers will tell you what's up with the part and does a good job at making sure the part is okay for your car. Oh, here's another sneaky thing I found recently.... Gates makes excellent belts of all kinds for cars and trucks. I use their "extended use" blue timing belts which incidentally are made in China. Oddly, this is the ONLY Chinese part I buy for my Japanese car, but I am a DIYer. These blue belts are made to exacting standards and have never let me down. Gates also makes timing belt kits for my car that include the tensioner bearing and idler bearing along with some springs and other small parts. What I have seen is the kit's box will say "Made in USA", except they sneak in one or both Chinese-made bearings instead of the excellent Japanese KOYO bearings that you get when you buy the individual parts from them. Not only is this sneaky, I believe it's illegal- well, it used to be back when we had a functional country. But I digress, be aware of what you're buying and return anything that isn't right. Then, COMPLAIN to the company that makes it and the one that sold it to you. Do not be a sheep or it will only get worse. Bahhhh | |||||
| 3 seconds of blue smoke on cold starts. | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | westpalm124 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 1.5 seconds after cold-starting my 2013 Ford Fusion that's equipped with a 1.6L EcoBoost (ugh)/175,233 miles (not ugh), about 3 seconds worth of blue-tinted smoke comes out of the tailpipe. What is your guess on why this occurs? Is there a substance I can pour in the crankshaft that could potentially solve this issue? | |||||
| Blue Devil Engine Revive versus Restore | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Chaseboy4 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| What's good everyone hope you all are having a great Merry Christmas. A question I can't answer to my brother's cousin he owns a 1998 Honda Civic Type R with 500,000 legit miles on it he was at AutoZone and was under a pick and choose situation between using either blue Devil Engine Revive or Restore in the next oil change as his goal is to keep the engine pretty much immortal lolz but anyone here know which one is best? | |||||
| 58 C Max Blue Smoke Mot Fail | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Bobby22 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi I have a uk Ford Cmax 1.8 petrol it’s got around 150.000 and it’s blowing blue clouds on accelerating and using oil, if you rev the car it will cloud up then foot off and rev again it don’t do it so much it don’t smoke badly when idling need it to pass as can’t tax the car and borrowing someone’s drive at the moment 🙄 many help would be great Robert | |||||
| Answer to: Temperature light flashing blue, coolant sensor was replaced, prndl led lights don't work and battery light don't work but battery is charging ok. | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | yaser | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| For the blue light, check the coolant level and add as needed. For the rest of issues, take the car back to the garage and have them fix. They messed up and they are responsible for fixing for free. | |||||
| Blue Wave Car Wash | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | Conanharris | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| There was a new blue Wave Car Wash that opened Livingston, TX. There have been several cars that had their bumper cover ripped off or damaged. | |||||