Greetings,
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT, automatic tranny, 158,000 miles. The situation with is currently being a giant pain in the ass. When I initially inspect it the wire going to smaller nut in the starter, which connects to the solenoid, the terminal had broken off, then I bridged the starter and the truck started. So proceed to spliced it back together . However i went to start it and nothing. Tried to bridge it again and nothing. This led me to notice that my fuel pump was not activating. So proceed to check my immobilizer system as it was the only thing that could do it. Checked it and noticed that somehow the cable to my immobilizer transceiver had came off and it was cutting the fuel pump. I spliced the cables back together and the fuel pump is activiting and bridging it does start it again. So my questions is why is the ignition circuit not engaging? because turning the key does not do so.
It's like any other "No Crank". All of your answers can be found by testing the Starter Relay Socket using a test light.
Here's the drill:
1) Is there power at relay socket 30 (from fuse #11)? (If YES go to step 2)
2) Does the starter turn when you "jump" relay sockets 30 & 87? (If YES go to step 3)
3) Is there power at relay socket 85 from fuse #24 when the key is in START position? (If YES go to step 4)
4) Is there Ground from the PCM at relay socket 86 when the key is in START position?
Whichever isn't being provided you can refer to the wiring diagram to isolate that part of the circuit and investigate
CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE
Try checking the starter relay for function and the proper fuses.
As long as you tested it with the key in the START position then looking at the diagram, the wire from the Start terminal on the ignition switch to that fuse is Red & Blue. That has to have power when the key is in START.
If it's easier than getting to the back of the ignition switch, locate the connector for the ignition switch and test the wire there (KEY IN START POSITION)
If you don't have power there then watch this video on replacing the ignition switch.
They only cost around 25 bucks. Not hard to do.
Let us know what you find out.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3I2oye8OpQ
Hey so theres no power coming from the red and blue terminal that connects to the ignition switch, i went and got one and didn't do anything still no power.
I have checked all the fuses and relays and they all function
Hey Jack question, could explain to me what the colors on the diagram mean? The colored lines I mean. Thank You
Those are the colors of the wires according to the wire diagram. If you enlarge the image you can see the color abbreviations next to the wires. Just be aware that sometimes the wire colors on these wiring diagrams are wrong
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That doesn't matter. The circuit is correct. Just do the relay test. If it's the immobilizer, you won't have that Ground from the PCM at starter relay socket 86 when the key is in START position (Like I said in Step 4 in my previous response)
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Also notice your Neutral Safety switch in the diagram
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This is why you should test that relay socket with a test light
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Ford's PATS (Passive Anti-Theft Systems) is weird. In some versions it disables just the fuel injectors. In other versions it disables both the injectors and the starter.
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But the computer would disable the starter by not providing a Ground (Step 4 in my previous post) to starter relay socket 86 when the key is turned to START
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Also if it's PATS doing this, the Theft Light will flash while you're turning the key. (Normally it stops flashing after a second or so when you turn the key to ON)
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Also, if PATS is doing this it will tell you why it's doing it
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You leave the key in the ON position for about a minute (or until the Theft Light stops blinking quickly
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Then the light will begin flashing codes
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It's "Sequence-Pause=Sequense"
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So if it flashed 1 time, then paused, then flashed 4 times, that would be Code 14
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Also how does the immobilizer system affect the circuit of for starting it
Hey so do to time i only managed to jump the relay, and the starter did engage and the engine did start. The pats light stops showing after the key is put in start. it stays on for like a second then shuts off.
when you get a chance do Steps 3 and 4 of my previous reply. Either you're missing power on the control side of that relay (possibly an issue with the ignition switch or neutral safety switch) ((Step 3))
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or the PCM isn't providing the ground. (Step 4)
Hey so i managed to do it and socket 86 is receiving the ground, but 85 doesn't light up and with a multimeter it shows a 0.01
So now you just test that part of the circuit. (Pink and Tan wires on that diagram I posted earlier)
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Use your test light to make sure there's power on both sides of that 7.5 amp fuse (#24) in your passenger compartment fuse box when your key is in the START position.
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If you don't have power there, go back and test the ignition switch.
If you have power at that 7.5 amp fuse, then move down that circuit to the transmission range sensor (neutral safety switch). Make sure it has power going in (should be the Pink wire) and coming out (should be the tan and red wire) when the Key is in the Start position
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Hey so i don't have power at the fuse #24 so where do I check in the ignition switch
I meant to say i got the ignition switch
It did nothing
Take the switch off and move the lever to the START position. (still Connected to the connector) with the key in the ignition and in the START position ((for PATS))
Do you have power to that Red and Blue wire? (backpin the wire in the back of the connector using a pin to check with your test light.
No still no power coming from the red and blue connector, I'm going back to return it and getting a different ignition switch
All the other wires light up except the red and blue connector
I was wondering if theres a way of testing the cable it self liken could i bridge the cable to see if it's carrying the signal.
Yeah but don't jump around. See if manually moving the switch doesn't work 1st.
We need to rule out a mechanical issue with the ignition mechanism not moving that lever on the switch and then start testing the wiring between the switch and the 7.5 amp fuse.
Yes i have moved the lever many times and everything acts as if it were being put in the start position by the key . It activate radio and fuel pump and I can still jump the relay and start the engine.
Ok got the new switch and by moving the lever the truck is starting
Does the truck start when you install the switch and use the key?
However now I'm noticing with a multimeter that the voltage is at 3.35
The voltage Of fuse#24 and the relay socket 86 the voltage is 3.35
we can try to run down the reason for that voltage drop. It will be on one of the power inputs of that switch. Let's confirm that the switch will operate using the key 1st
Hey so i installed it back and it doesn't turn on with the key
Hey so further investigating the truck, doesn't start in park with the key and without. However it does start in neutral with key and without it.
However that still doesn't explain the voltage drop coming from the ignition switch to the fuse #24.
That seems to be pointing to an issue with the Neutral safety switch. I'm not saying to run out and buy a new neutral safety switch
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First, test that Red and Blue wire at the ignition switch to make sure it's getting power in both Neutral AND Park
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If it is, go under the truck, and test to make sure that you have power going into the Neutral Safety Switch (Transmission range switch) in Neutral AND Park (referring to the wiring diagram it should be the Pink wire)
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Then see if you have power coming out of the neutral switch in both Neutral AND Park. (should be the Tan and red wire)
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If you have Power going into the switch in both Neutral and Park, but Power only coming out of the switch in Neutral, it's pretty likely the switch is defective
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But not conclusively because there is an adjustment on that switch. The switch's mounting holes are oblong and there's a little room to slightly spin it in either direction
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BEFORE you loosen those 2 mounting bolts you'll want to scribe an "alignment line" on the plastic switch body and the transmission body so you can put it back exactly how it was if adjusting it doesn't work
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Then, shifter in Park, try adjusting that switch a little at a time each way to see if you can find a "sweet spot" in the adjustment where you have Power coming out of the switch in Neutral and Park
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If you have power going to the neutral switch in both Neutral AND Park but you can only get Power to come out of the switch in Neutral, and adjusting it doesn't work, then the switch is defective
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Either way, examine BOTH sides of that neutral switch connector for corrosion on the pins on the switch, and in the female connector's pin sockets of the harness, or damaged wiring going into that connector first.
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After you nail down this "No Crank in Park" issue you can move onto that Voltage Drop issue. You're doing Electrical Circuit Troubleshooting. If you don't identify an issue and then fix that issue before moving on to the next issue you'll find yourself going down a bottomless rabbit hole where using an "IF, THEN" diagnostic strategy can't work ("IF we have certain information, THEN certain hypotheses may be true") because there's other (known) malfunctioning areas in the circuit
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Here's a helpful video to familiarize you with that Neutral Switch
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhkfq6kFtP4
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I'm not ignoring the voltage drop issue. Frankly, I find that voltage drop issue more interesting. This Starter Circuit stuff is basically "grunt work". Checking for Power and Ground and isolating the issue(s)
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When you first mentioned the Voltage Drop, I started looking for ways to nail down any possible locations in your 2000 Ranger's "starter relay's control side power circuit"
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So get the truck starting in Park and then move on to the voltage drop
Hey so i stopped working on it and when i came back around 4 hours later the truck started in park. However then i proceed to check the relay socket again to see if it was getting the 3 volts on park(which it isn't) and removed the relay.put it back and in. And Now it has stopped starting in park and only starts in neutral. This truck is losing it mind.
Hey Jack the truck is now starting at park. Now wonder what's the deal with the voltage drop.
Catch us up on how you fixed the no start in park issue so we can keep track of what's going on with that power side of your starter relay control circuit.
Adjusted the neutral switch.
Going forward, if you reply to my posts by clicking the red rectangular box under my reply that says "Add a comment" I'll get a notification that you responded when I sign onto the forum
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it's a pain to type in the small Add a comment box and if your reply is long, then do it the way you've been doing it but just type something like "responding" in the Add a comment box under my last reply so I get a notification and I'll check in on your question thread
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You get notifications of all replies because it's your thread
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I only get notifications if there's a direct response to one of my replies
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Good that you nailed down that No Start in Park issue
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So bear with me. I can't see what you're doing and I don't know everything you've done already so I need to be clear of what voltages you're finding
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I glanced over your previous posts on that voltage issue. You said, "The voltage Of fuse #24 and the relay socket 86 the voltage is 3.35"
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I'm assuming that you meant to say the voltage on the fuse and relay socket 85 is 3.35 volts
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86 should be the computer provided Ground
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1) So 1st, pull out the Starter Relay. Turn the key to the ON position and measure the voltage (using the negative battery post as Ground) and Starter Relay socket 85 and after that do the same at that fuse. Is there a voltage reading?
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2) Next have somebody hold the key on the Start position and repeat. Check it at relay socket 85 and again at the fuse
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If you're finding no voltage there with "Key ON" and only 3.35 volts there with holding "Key Start" then you have to move up in the circuit to the ignition switch
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(frankly, I'm surprised that 3.35 volts is enough to energize that starter relay's control coil in the Key Start position and hold it against the return spring in the relay) I'd expect it to be "chattering" as the low voltage is fighting against the relay coil's return spring)
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Doesn't matter, electrical circuits only seem normal when everything is working right and 3.35 volts in the Start Position isn't right
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So if there's only 3.35 volts at that fuse (Key in Start Position) you can eliminate an issue with the relay socket and the neutral safety switch because the fuse is "upstream" in the circuit from those
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3) The next thing you want to do is "backpin" that Red and Blue wire at the Ignition switch. You can use a Tpin or any type of pin. (look in your wife's sewing basket)
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You have to backpin the Red and Blue wire at the ignition switch connection because you have to measure the voltage with the key held in the Start position so it has to be measured with the connector attached to the ignition switch
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Let me know what your findings are to these 3 questions. Understand that we aren't actually measuring voltage drop right now
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To do that we have to have the relay's coil being energized (starter relay plugged into its socket)
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We're trying to determine, under No Load, where we're losing 12 volts in Key Start position and specifically if it's happening After the ignition switch (ignition switch's output voltage) or Before the ignition switch (ignition switch's input voltage)
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With that starter relay unplugged there's no load on the circuit. Your multimeter doesn't put a load on the circuit either
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So this isn't a typical voltage drop issue where we measure 12 volts under No Load and then see the Voltage drop when we put the circuit under Load
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Regardless, let me know your findings.
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If you can't get battery voltage (12 volts + or -) at the starter relay socket 85, the fuse, or the Red and Blue wire coming out of the ignition switch, then we have to start checking voltages at the "input side" of the ignition switch
Alternatively, you can also notify @jack62 by mentioning his tag, like I just did.
thanks, This forum stuff is new to me and your suggestion is a lot easier.... D'oh!
No problem!
Hey @jack62, I'm getting 3.35 volts coming to socket 85, from the red and blue wire and at the fuse
You want to backpin the red and blue wire at the ignition switch. (Key in Start). ((Pull out the Starter relay so you can hold the key in Start without the starter turning))
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See if there's only 3.35 volts there too.
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You're working back through the circuit from the relay to to figure out where the voltage drop is occuring
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If there's only 3.35 volts at this point, we can start working back from the power input terminal of the ignition switch.
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@jack62, hey so here are my finding at all 3 points, being socket 85, fuse, and at the back of the red and blue wire I get 3.35 volts in the ON position. When I put it in the start position( when all the information lights turn on I get 0.27 volts. When I turn the key and hold in run, I get around 11 volts at all 3 points.
Let's get our Key Positions straight
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What are those voltages at KEY POSITION "OFF" (Position 3)?
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What are those voltages at KEY POSITION "ON" (Position 4)?
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What are those voltages at KEY POSITION "START" (Position 5)?
@jack62, I see so in off it's 3.35, at start is 0.27, in start is around 11
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You're getting 11 volts in START (Position 5). That's good. (anything from 10 volts to 13.5 volts is in spec)
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Your truck starts in Neutral and Park
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You're done.
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Good job!
@jack62 Yeah! Thank You So much you were great help! God Bless you!