Notifications
Clear all
Search result for: liquid piston
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| At205 and automatic transmission cluch pack piston | 15Relevance | 3 years ago | fc227a | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scott, love the videos I'm a gearhead also. I own a 1986 Buick grand national. My question with the ar205 will that also help with transmission cluch pack piston seals? God speed and keep up the good work, Fred | |||||
| Answer to: 2014 Honda Odyssey Piston Rings | 15Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| On what basis was it determined the piston rings are bad? Wet/dry compression test? Leakdown test? If the rings really are bad the engine is toast and would need to be overhauled or replaced. (A low-miles used engine from a wreck might be a solution in that case.) | |||||
| 2014 Honda Odyssey Piston Rings | 15Relevance | 3 years ago | agaskins3553 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2014 Honda Odyssey with ~115k miles. It's had an issue with shaking in low gears for a year or two. We had misfires last year and our mechanic replaced the spark plugs. Similar issue just came up: blinking Check Engine light, shaking in low gears, and no codes from the computer. We were told the engine needed to be replaced, which would exceed the value of the car. The reason cited was faulty piston rings. I have read that disabling the VCM is a potential solution. Are there any long-term solutions to salvage a reliable car, or should I just move on? | |||||
| Answer to: Supercharged Pontiac GT? & How necessary is premium fuel. | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | Dad2LM2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I agree with Yaser to check the owners manual. But don’t be surprised if it specifies at least 91 octane. The point of forced induction (turbos and superchargers) is to increase the intake pressure within the cylinder. Then, with the compression stroke of the piston, you can generate even higher pressures at the time the spark plug fires. However, when you raise the pressure in a gas, you also raise the temperature. If the temperature rises high enough, you can ignite the fuel. (This is how Diesel engines run without spark plugs.) unfortunately, if the fuel ignites before the piston reaches the top of the compression stroke (preignition) you will have the rod and piston driven up by the crankshaft and down by the fuel combustion- at the same time. This is bad and can damage the engine. High octane fuel ignites at a higher temperature, and therefore prevents preignition. Modern engines can detect this and adjust the amount of fuel and air that go into the cylinder (reducing power and fuel economy), so that low octane fuel doesn’t damage the engine. But it isn’t optimal. And with that particular car, I would be very careful and follow the manufacturers instruction. Good luck, | |||||
| Answer to: Rattle/clunk front end of car | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | timetraveller | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The problem has now been resolved!! This was a very funny problem and it will no doubt occur with many other vehicles! As stated I had done my brake pads a couple of weeks ago and this problem only occurred not long after. I Thought of taking the pads out and having a good look at them as they were cheaper brake pads. Yep not as tight in the retainer wall of the piston! I stretched out the retainer clips so it sits nice and snug in the piston, bled the whole brake system free from any air to be safe and topped up fluid during the process. No problems! It was something that simple lucky I didn't go and buy a CV axle drive shaft since mine had very minor play in it but I wasn't quite convinced as mine never clunks during full lock turns!! Keep in mind for future!! Next time you buy brake pads, whether they're cheap pads or not and they have retainer clips that sit in the piston retainer wall make sure are nice and tight and stretch the clips out if they aren't! Thanks again to all for your assistance!! Thanks Scotty! | |||||
| 2008 Impala LT -3.9 - 84k miles did I ruin my brake calliper? | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | flywithjohn | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Did a front brake job today, while the pads were out I pump the brakes to get the piston to come further out so I could clean it. It came really far out, was still in it's dust boot. I successfully got the piston back in, however while it was going back with the assistances of a C-clamp - a bunch of brake fluid came out. I cleaned everything off, seated the new pads and tested the system. I didn't see anymore fluid after checking and doing a static run test with the car in drive and actuating the system. Put everything back together and didn't notice any braking issues on a low speed road test. Should I monitor the brake performance and fluid over the next few weeks? Or do I need to have this caliper/piston rebuilt and system bled anyway? | |||||
| Answer to: Gasoline | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | Razmig Bartassian | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| This is only the case if your ECU cannot advance ignition timing to compensate for 93 octane (almost all modern cars can compensate for different octane ratings with special sensors that detect what octane fuel is in the tank, and almost all cars can adjust ignition timing). 87 octane has a faster flame propagation compared to 93 octane, so it can be ignited really close to top dead center and give you full power. Running 93 octane requires an earlier spark plug ignition to account for the slower flame propagation. So if your ECU cannot advance the timing, it will ignite the 93 octane fuel too late for it to provide a proper power stroke. The piston will already be moving downward by the time it fully ignites, and this causes power loss. The closer the piston is at top dead center when the fuel fully ignites, the more power it makes (more downward force on the piston). | |||||
| Answer to: 94 Geo Metro | 16Relevance | 6 years ago | BC St | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's hard to justify putting a large sum of money into a vehicle knowing that you will never recover that amount should you try to sell it. Pressurize the bad cylinder and see where the air escapes. Tail pipe, bad exhaust valve, Intake manifold, bad intake valve, Oil filler cap, bad piston or rings, into an adjacent cylinder, bad head gasket. If it is a valve problem and you wanted to cheap out, you could get a used head. If it's a head gasket problem and the head isn't warped to bad you may get away with machining the head and replacing the head gasket. If it's a piston or piston ring problem, then you are looking at replacing or rebuilding the engine. If you decide you want to unload, sell, the car, list it as a repairable. Their might be a mechanic out there looking for such a vehicle. | |||||
| Engine piston oil return holes clogged | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Anthony31283 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2015 Toyota Camry se 2.4L it has 172,000 miles on it and the car is well maintained. Recently started buring oil i add 1 quart every 1,200 miles and toke it to the dealership and was told that it was buring oil because the Engine piston oil return holes are clogged and that it will take 6,000 dollars to repair. My Question to you is do i continue to add oil or is there a fix you could recommend to unclog theses holes and keep them clear because i don't have 6,000 dollars. Q. Is this a problem with 2.4L engines? | |||||
| Answer to: Piston Ring Sealer | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Nothing will "seal" worn piston rings except replacement. Heavier oil might mitigate the effects somewhat, temporarily, but that can play havoc with the cam phasers in modern cars. | |||||
| Answer to: Piston Rings | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Low-tension rings have been in use for over 20 years. You'll be hard pressed to find a modern car without them. Although such piston rings are by their nature more prone to causing oil burning and sludging those issues can be overcome with proper engine design. | |||||
| Answer to: Piston Rings | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Low-tension piston rings are more prone to both oil burning and blowby. They don't seal as well as old-fashioned tight-fitting rings. | |||||
| Answer to: Piston Rings | 15Relevance | 4 years ago | Jonaeski | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Are low friction piston rings more prone to oil burning? | |||||
| Answer to: Could my car have a bad piston ring ? | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | yaser | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Have your mechanic do the dry and wet compression test on all cylinders. It will give you some ideas about the health of your engine. You might also have blown head gasket. Use the test kit to verify that. | |||||
| Answer to: Ford Mustang: no cold air | 16Relevance | 1 year ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... recover refrigerant that has been contaminated with sealers because it ruins their equipment. Air doesn't behave like a refrigerant. It doesn't turn into liquid when it's compressed and enters the condenser, it remains highly pressurized air. Likewise, when air enters the evaporator, nothing significant happens. liquid refrigerant evaporates in the evaporator, cooling the inside of the car. Air remains air and doesn't produce the same effect. And the amount of refrigerant required by the car is in the order of maybe 1 pound to 1.25 pounds (my Ranger takes p ... | |||||