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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Loss of brakes when hitting bump, temporarily weak brakes, now normal again | 12Relevance | 2 years ago | nexus-7 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2013 Mazda3 2.0 Skyactiv, auto, fwd; no OBD2 codes Today I was slowing down exiting an inclined freeway offramp. I was only going maybe 15mph and was soft braking when I hit a small bump in the road and I immediately felt the brakes give out for a moment (the pedal dropped) before getting soft re-engagement. I continued to have very weak brakes the rest of the 3-mile drive home (needed to press brake pedal deep to get decent braking power) - I suspect the front brakes were not engaging at all. After parking it at home for a bit and deciding if I should go straight to the mechanic, I decided to go for a test drive in the neighborhood. When I pressed the brake pedal to start the car, the pedal dropped all the way down, then it engaged normally on a second press. From then, the brakes seem to feel and operate normally - I drove around the neighborhood, braking several times and everything seemed normal again. Background info: About a year ago basically the same thing happened (hit bump, lost brakes) but in that incident I was braking harder at a higher speed when I hit the bump. In that case the weak brakes continued after (instead of going back to normal like this time), so I brought it to a mechanic. They diagnosed a bad master cylinder, replaced it, and everything has been fine until today's incident. Is it highly likely that the master cyclinder (or something else) is faulty again or is there another possible explanation within normal functionality? OBD2 scan does not show any codes. | |||||
| Answer to: Misfires and loose steering | 12Relevance | 2 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The "Navara D22" was sold in the US market as the 1997-2004 Nissan Frontier. That's very unfortunate as it complicates the repair and diagnostics severely. Have you tried a cheap dongle like an ELM327 with this app: I found it to work great with cars that don't like to comm over OBD2. Since it's a diesel, Either the fuel-air mixture is wrong or there's a compression issue. Is the turbo is good shape? They're considered to be very troublesome on these. You can do basic steps like checking that the engine air filter is clean, if possible replace the fuel filter. If that fails I'd recommend testing the fuel line pressure, and if that's fine - time to test compression. (It's a bit different than doing it on a petrol car and it does require special tools) Also reading online, I see people complain about fuel injectors, mass airflow, etc. It's better to have a mechanic who knows what he's doing diagnose the car - it can be a lot of things. Uh oh. Perhaps the rest of the engine is worn out - I'd really recommend testing the compression just to see that the rest of the engine is alive... They should've done it before replacing the head anyway! Well that's a thing that's easy to diagnose when you're hands on the truck. See where there's play in the system - I do not want to make guesses although usually I'd suspect the rack, although again, you should diagnose it and see where's the play. | |||||
| Answer to: Brakes locked, AC and windows not working | 12Relevance | 3 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| A generic OBD2 scanner would not work on that vehicle in any event since it is pre-OBD2. However you can access OBD1 blink codes with a paperclip or wire jumper. You could be looking at any number of problems. A lot can happen to a vehicle in 30 years. Which brakes locked up? Maybe the parking brake cable is seized? You would need to do some basic electrical troubleshooting to find the problem with the windows. Likewise some basic troubleshooting is needed for the AC. It might be refrigerant has leaked out, or it could be an electrical problem. | |||||
| Answer to: Astro van rough idling odd gas smell | 12Relevance | 3 years ago | DarkCode | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ( Reposting due to time limit cut off on edit.) Hello Scotty. Desperate for your help. I stay in my van and use it for work. Chevy : make Astro : model Year : 2000 2 wheel drive passenger standard no special edition as far as i know. 4.3 li tter vortex engine V6 So the car started to rough idle while at the traffic light, first time it happened almost turned off. Next day normal until it warmed up and same issue while I break or park. Had a funny smell tithe gas but no check engine or white smoke. Then next day on a long 15 mile drive engine light came on. Thought it also had acceleration issue but that could have been my imagination. On the way back car started normal and drove normal. Seems to get better but check engine light on. I need to drive for work all weekend so I'm concerned I'll get stalled but have no choice as I need money. Went to get error code and got these in pictures not sure how to upload so ill type them. OxYGen 2 sensor ( not sure need confirmation) . Code P1153 HO2S insufficient switching, bank 2 censor 1, DTC severity 2 of 3 may pose damage to components and should be repaored as soon as possible etc Additional OBD2 readings below: Eng rpm 1993 Maf 4.00 l/b min Tps 21.3 percent Map 16 (InHg) Lift B1 4.7 percent Stft B1 2.3 percent Stft B2 50.0 percent Lift B2 6.3 percent Veh speed (24 mph) Fuel sys 1 cl Fuel sys 2 cl Calc load 17.6 percent ECT 151 (F) Did OBD2 test done with key turned forward as recommended by auto parts guy, not while car turned on. I checked for similar issues and videos. Asked around. Guy from discount auto parts says he disconnected oxygen 2 censor after turning off car and then the negative battery cable and then plugged both back in, after few minutes and turned on car and it fixed the issue. But could also mean oxygen 2 censor is bad, not sure of there is a way to test or check that besides the error code saying it's bad. Another mobile mechanic suggested Fuel pump is bad. But Is there a way to test the fuel pump to know for sure before doing pricey job? I saw a video that showed fuel filter test where they empty it out and blow air through a straw in one hole and out the other hole and if air comes out its good but If its bad then air doesn't come out as easy or at all. I want to try that before testing Fuel pump if there's any way to do that. One of your videos suggest I can use some additive in gas to clean injectors? Not sure please confirm. Also havent checked distributor cap and cables for corrosion in 5 years so that may be it, trying to get mechanic to help me do it. Forgot to mention when It's rough idling and I hit gas pedal it goes away for a moment or so. I was just suggested ECV valve clean or something similar. Any suggestions or advice or recommendations or links or places to go and things to do would be greatly appreciated Scotty and anyone else reading this. Please write back as soon as you can. Thank You. Ps I have a bad tire wearing out on the outside fir both front tire problem forecast 6 months going through tires so fast, one month for used tires. I need to do alignment and was suggested ball joints (lower), inner and outer tie rods, and drag link. Please let me know which of these if any affect alignment and why or how. Also, how does a 3 part alignment work or alignment to in general and what do I adjust to make tires straight because one is a bit outside and the other Inside ( driver more outside, passenger more inside ) thanks again. | |||||
| Answer to: Astro van rough idling odd gas smell | 12Relevance | 3 years ago | DarkCode | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Edit ra out of time will repost. Hello Scotty. Desperate for your help. I stay in my van and use it for work. Chevy : make Astro : model Year : 2000 2 wheel drive passenger standard no special edition as far as i know. 4.3 lotter vortex engine V6 So the car started to rough idle while at the traffic light, first time it happened almost turned off. Next day normal until it warmed up and same issue while I break or park. Had a funny smell tithe gas but no check engine or white smoke. Then next day on a long 15 mile drive engine light came on. Thought it also had acceleration issue but that could have been my imagination. On the way back car started normal and drove normal. Seems to get better but check engine light on. I need to drive for work all weekend so I'm concerned I'll get stalled but have no choice as I need money. Went to get error code and got these in pictures not sure how to upload so ill type them. OxYGen 2 sensor ( not sure need confirmation) . Code P1153 HO2S insufficient switching, bank 2 censor 1, DTC severity 2 of 3 may pose damage to components and should be repaored as soon as possible etc Additional OBD2 readings below: Eng rpm 1993 Maf 4.00 l/b min Tps 21.3 percent Map 16 (InHg) Lift B1 4.7 percent Stft B1 2.3 percent Stft B2 50.0 percent Lift B2 6.3 percent Veh speed (24 mph) Fuel sys 1 cl Fuel sys 2 cl Calc load 17.6 percent ECT 151 (F) Did OBD2 test done with key turned forward as recommended by auto parts guy, not while car turned on. I checked for similar issues and videos. Asked around. Guy from discount auto parts says he disconnected oxygen 2 censor after turning off car and then the negative battery cable and then plugged both back in, after few minutes and turned on car and it fixed the issue. But could also mean oxygen 2 censor is bad, not sure of there is a way to test or check that besides the error code saying it's bad. Another mobile mechanic suggested Fuel pump is bad. But Is there a way to test the fuel pump to know for sure before doing pricey job ? I saw a video that showed fuel filter test where they empty it out and blow air through a straw in one hole and out the other hole and if air comes out its good but If its bad then air doesn't come out as easy or at all. I want to try that before testing Fuel pump if there's any way to do that. One of your videos suggest I can use some additive in gas to clean injectors? Not sure please confirm. Also havent checked distributor cap and cables for corrosion in 5 years so that may be it, trying to get mechanic to help me do it. Forgot to mention when It's rough idling and I hit gas pedal it goes away for a moment or so. Any suggestions or advice or recommendations or links or places to go and things to do would be greatly appreciated Scotty and anyone else reading this. Please write back as soon as you can. Thank You. Ps I have a bad tire wearing out on the outside fir both front tire problem forecast 6 months going through tires so fast, one month for used tires. I need to do alignment and was suggested ball joints (lower), inner and outer tie rods, ans drag link. Please let me know which of these if any affect alignment and why or how. Also, how does a 3 part alignment work or alignment to in general and what do I adjust to make tires straight because one is a bit outside and the other Inside ( drover more outside passenger more inside ) thanks again. | |||||
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