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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: E-brake light comes on and off | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It is a parking brake, not an emergency brake. Check to make sure the lever and associated cables are disengaged. Check your brake fluid reservoir. If the fluid is low, the light will come on. Check your brake pads for excessive wear. Also, check to switch on the parking brake shaft. | |||||
| Answer to: How do I set my park brake | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | glasspilot | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I would agree it's not a bad idea to use the parking brake with an automatic. Although most people don't. Here's a good reason to use it. If you rarely use the parking brake it can get "sticky", rusty and all. Then when you go get your annual safety inspection the mechanic (excuse me, "tech") will stomp (pedal) or pull (handle) on the P brake and may break the cable or it may "stick" on, greatly increasing your cost at the inspection. If you always use the P brake, you will always know the condition of your brake and you will know it works good enough for ... | |||||
| How do I fix illuminated brake warning light | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | Old Kentucky boy | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty I have a 2012 Ford Explorer with the 3.5 liter, the parking brake light comes on intermediately. I have re placed the Master cylinder brake fluid level sensor, replace the brake pads, then replace the brake pedal switch and the brake light still comes on intermediately. With the key turned to the on position you can pump the brakes and the light will go out but not always. Could it be a master cylinder with low pressure? As you suggested Scotty I’ll check the brake lines that have no leaks brake pads need replaced anyway so I replaced all those. I ... | |||||
| RE: Rear brake drum won't go back on. | 26Relevance | 6 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Since you retracted your adjuster all the way you may want to pop off the rubber plug on the back of the brake plate and spin that star wheel to expand the adjuster so you have a closer clearance between the brake shoes and brake drum. Use a screwdriver to spin the adjuster's star wheel until you feel/hear the slightest contact of the brake shoes on the brake drum as you spin the wheel. If you don't, you may have to add some brake fluid and your parking brake pedal may go lower than you like | |||||
| Answer to: New Vehicle Thoughts (2025) | 32Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| That's to be expected. You're supposed to be pulling the parking brake up or activating the electronic parking brake before shifting into Park when parking on inclines. You're putting undo strain on that parking pawl, which is not very big. The only thing keeping your car from rolling away is the shearing strength of that steel pin. Pulling it out while on an incline necessitates more force to be applied to said pin. More force=the thud you're hearing. If you park on a steep enough incline without setting the parking brake first and just shift straight int ... | |||||
| Answer to: Parking brake broke | 31Relevance | 4 years ago | avalon04 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Question: is it safe to keep the vehicle this way? Do it hurt the transmission? Can it damage something? Thank you! Suntzuwarrior (@suntzuwarrior) New Member | 3 Posts No, it is not safe. And yes, it can damage the parking pawl as Chuck Tobias stated. Take it to a brake shop. After all, it is your parking brake that is malfunctioning, not your tires. In the meantime, is there any way you could park sideways on the incline of your driveway. That way you would avoid placing too much pressure on the parking pawl. If it is d ... | |||||
| 2008 Mazda 3 with active parking brake light on console | 31Relevance | 4 years ago | aramos1053 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My daughter has a 2008 Mazda 3 with 126,000 miles on it. It runs pretty well, engine is clean and its never been in any accidents. Recently she told me she see's the parking brake light come on from time to time- it will go away then return. I plugged in my BlueDriver scanner and no codes pop up.. totally clean. I turned on the car and engaged the brake. Put the car in drive and gave it a little gas, the brake held. Put the car in reverse and gave it a little gas, the brake held. I released the brake and the brake light in the console remained on. At t ... | |||||
| only the Right rear brake seems to be working. | 31Relevance | 2 years ago | Paul0321 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2003 Yukon XL SLT 5.3 liter, automatic transmission, 4 wheel drive. Miles: 217627 I had some noise coming from the right rear wheel. When I inspected it I found the brake pads had worn down to nothing and the inside of the brake disk had a lot of wear. I inspected the pads on the left rear also and found hardly any wear on them or the disk. I replaced the pads and the disk on that wheel also since I had taken them apart. So now I have new brake pads and disks on both rear wheels. When I inspected the front brakes (Left and right) they looked only lightly used, practically new. When I took the truck for a test drive, the noise was gone and the brakes seemed to be working. I only drive about three miles to work on city streets so I'm not doing a lot of hard breaking daily. I had to drive up into the hills the other night and on the way down the right rear brake was making a scraping noise when I applied the brake and after I released the brakes. It was obvious that the front brakes were not engaging until I was about halfway down the hill, and the scraping noise stopped from the right rear brake at about the same time the front brakes started to engage. This problem is intermittent. When I apply the brakes here in town, I can hear a light scraping noise coming from the right rear wheel about half the time, then it fades out. It doesn't seem like the front brakes are engaging all the time. Troubleshooting: I get in the truck and without starting it, I pump the brake pedal slowly. By the fourth pump, the pedal is hard to push down. Then I start the truck and push the brake pedal and it is very easy to push down, it doesn't provide much resistance no matter how many times I pump it. Summary: The short version of the problem is, that when my front brakes do engage I have no noise from the right rear brake, but most of the time it seems like it is only the right rear brake that is stopping my truck and when it does, there is a lag between the time I take my foot off of the brake peddle and when the scaping noise stops. You are my last hope. So far I have gotten five different opinions from five different people. I need to get this fixed. Thanks for your help. Paul0341 | |||||
| Sticking brake caliper | 26Relevance | 5 years ago | robsonselzelin | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, can a brake rotors and brake pads change end up in sticking brake caliper? I ask that because I went to a shop two months ago, in order to change brake rotors and brake pads, it was still winter here in Canada, I was driving slow because of the snow. Now it's warming up, I'm driving faster and I'm experiencing the steering wheel vibrating at highway speeds. I've read sticking brake calipers can cause that, but can brake rotors and brake pads change cause sticking brake calipers? If so, how can it be fixed? Thanks. | |||||
| Answer to: Loud squeaking from rear driver's side wheel | 25Relevance | 5 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Set and release the parking brake a few times to see if that will help get it to let go. I had this happen with my truck a couple years ago and it would bind the driver's side drum brake every time I used the parking brake. Chock your wheels and climb under there if you can, find the parking brake cables and give them a yank in different directions. I figured out with my truck if I pulled it straight out from the frame toward the wheel, it would release. I replaced the cable and it hasn't been an issue since. | |||||
| Replacing flexible brake hose | 31Relevance | 3 years ago | gusbus148 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I am doing work on my 2010 Honda crv. I am trying to replace the flexible brake hose portion that connects to my rear passenger side brake caliper because I've noticed a burning smell coming from the rear passenger wheel area which is especially noticeable after driving on the highway. I also noticed the brake rotor is significantly warmer than all the other ones. I already replaced the caliper, wheel bearing, rotor and pads but the burning is still present even after all that work. I'm trying to eliminate variables one by one to see what's causing this burning smell and hot brake rotor. I saw that one possibility is that the flexible brake hose degrades over time and it could act as a check valve. In other words, the flexible brake line might have an obstruction and it allows fluid to press against the piston but it does not allow the brake fluid pressure to release. I think this keeps causing my brake rotor to warp slightly. I saw that the nut at the end of the Ridgid brake hose is fairly rusted. I'm a little worried about it seizing when I take it off. I plan on soaking it with kroil oil for a few days at least before I do the job. I was curious, is the nut at the end of the Ridgid brake line replaceable? Does anyone have any other suggestions for this job? Below is a picture of the brake hose. | |||||
| Answer to: Brake lights don't work | 31Relevance | 3 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Here's the wiring diagram. I highlighted the power to the brake lights in Red. The brake Light circuit gets power from the Passenger Compartment Fuse Box, through Fuse 23, to the brake Pedal Position Switch. When the brake Pedal is depressed the brake Pedal Position Switch is closed and Power is provided directly to the Center High Mounted Stop Lamp and to the Multifunction Switch. Then, depending on if a Turn Signal is selected with the Multifunction Switch, the 2 lower brake lights will be illuminated, OR the side which isn't signaling a turn (blinking) will be illuminated to signal the brakes have been applied as the other side is signaling the direction of the turn. So you want to check to see if the Center High Mount Stop Lamp is working. If it is, and the Lower brake Lights aren't working then you know Fuse 23 is good and the brake Pedal Position Switch is good. You'll suspect the Multifunction Switch. But if the Center High Mount Stop Lamp AND the Lower brake Lights aren't working then you'll suspect either Fuse 23 or the brake Pedal Position Switch ((grab a test light and check both test tabs on Fuse 23 and then use it to test the brake Pedal Position Switch)). | |||||
| Brake Pad Shims (bent inward with a pliers) | 31Relevance | 5 years ago | Thomas789 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I had some brake work done by the Ford Dealer on my Ford Edge. And I noticed something with regard to the brake pad shims. Sometimes they are called clips. For the general reader the stainless formed pieces that go between the ends of the brake pads and the channel in the caliper they fit in. Okay so to ask the question I need to phrase it correctly. You have the inner side of the inner brake pad and the outer side of the outer brake pad. That is the "where" of this question. Right there I noticed that, I believe it was the dealer. Bend the outer sides or ends of those shims in with a pliers. I presume they did that to prevent or limit the outer travel of the brake pad, again whether it be the inner brake pad or outer brake pad (the where of it.) But to me when you do that you put too much tension or drag on the brake pad and cause it to wear unnaturally? I can't remember what the dealer said when I asked them about this. And I can't for the life of me believe it is the right thing to do. And I have sometimes wondered if it wasn't the dealer who did this at all but a vandal or saboteur? What are your comments about this? Have you ever heard of this being a part of brake service? Is there some technical service bulletin that states to do it that way? Did someone of "old school" or other school do it because they believed that it lessened the idea of the brake pad being ejected? I just don't understand it. | |||||
| Sinking Brake Pedal | 28Relevance | 2 years ago | DIY_life | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2012 Toyota Matrix 213,000 kms (132,000 miles) AT 1.8L brake pedal has recently become soft. When engine is off, pressure builds and brake pedal holds firm. When engine is on, but car is in park I can push the brake pedal to the floor. brake pedal is easy to push when car is driving, but it sinks down more than it used to. The car still stops, but takes longer at higher speeds. There are no warnings lights on. I do not see any external brake fluid leaks and brake fluid reservoir is full. I changed all pads and rotors and bled the brakes 2 years ago, but no recent work has been done on the braking system. I bled all 4 calipers yesterday, but the problem still persists. I do not hear any hissing noises or strange sounds coming from the braking system. I’m wondering if I have bad master cylinder or if air became trapped in the ABS module. Since this just become a problem and the hydraulics were not touched in 2 years and I don’t have any ABS codes, I doubt I have air in the ABS module, but how can I rule this out? If the brake master cylinder has gone bad, what would have caused this? I’m diligent with my vehicle maintenance and keeping the brake fluid clean. I didn’t think brake master cylinders were known to fail on Toyota’s. Did I do something to damage it or did the o-rings just give out? If I need to replace the brake master cylinder is it ok to get a new one (not a reman) from my local Napa or do I need to order a new one from Toyota? Many thanks for the assistance and guidance. | |||||
| 2017 Cadillac XT5 parking brake won't release | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | Jimejoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| My battery started to die and I made it home, but it was so dead it wouldn't jump off. So I got a new battery and installed it, got in the car and started it and I'm getting all kinds of service lights traction control,ABS,parking brake, tire pressure, etc. It goes in gear but the electronic parking brakes will not release ??? any help would be great | |||||