I am doing work on my 2010 Honda crv. I am trying to replace the flexible brake hose portion that connects to my rear passenger side brake caliper because I've noticed a burning smell coming from the rear passenger wheel area which is especially noticeable after driving on the highway. I also noticed the brake rotor is significantly warmer than all the other ones. I already replaced the caliper, wheel bearing, rotor and pads but the burning is still present even after all that work.
I'm trying to eliminate variables one by one to see what's causing this burning smell and hot brake rotor. I saw that one possibility is that the flexible brake hose degrades over time and it could act as a check valve. In other words, the flexible brake line might have an obstruction and it allows fluid to press against the piston but it does not allow the brake fluid pressure to release. I think this keeps causing my brake rotor to warp slightly.
I saw that the nut at the end of the Ridgid brake hose is fairly rusted. I'm a little worried about it seizing when I take it off. I plan on soaking it with kroil oil for a few days at least before I do the job. I was curious, is the nut at the end of the Ridgid brake line replaceable? Does anyone have any other suggestions for this job?
Below is a picture of the brake hose.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BXmrEJRZDhBSJwCL8
The metal line is flared at the end. You are right to soak the nut before trying to loosen it. As Dad2LM2 said, use a flare nut wrench. If you round it off or cannot get it loose, you should replace the metal line.
Awesome thank you for the help. I'm going to try everything possible to not round off the nut because replacing a brake line seems like a much more involved job which may be above my skill level
You will most likely be able to loosen the nut. You will have to bleed the brake system, it will be a good time to replace all the fluid. Good luck.
Use either a flare nut wrench or an enclosed 6-sided wrench and verify the size (? probably 10 mm)
Is it possible to replace the nut that is attached to the brake line? I was just wondering if that nut was held on by a compression fitting?
The Honda guys might know. But I don't think so. I may be misunderstanding exactly what you are referring to. But if you are talking about the nut on the flared end of the brake fluid pipe, I believe you would have to re-flare the end of the pipe (which is hard to DIY without getting a leak). If you can preserve the existing nut, that is better.
Yes that is exactly what I'm talking about. I think I'm going to let the penetrating oil work overnight, maybe apply it one more time before bed and then get a flare nut wrench set to be safe. I was also thinking about maybe trying to clean the threads up with a brass wire wheel from a dremel while I had the nut out before I installed the new flexible brake line.
I'm going to try everything possible to not round off the nut because replacing a brake line seems like a much more involved job which may be above my skill level
The last resort if the nut is rounded off would be judicious use of vise grips. Replacement of brake hoses is conceptually straightforward but rust and corrosion complicate the job considerably.
You should also be aware that after replacing the brake hoses you will probably need a bidirectional scan tool to bleed the ABS.
Thanks Chuck. I was surprisingly able to get the nut off very easily and I was able to replace the flexible brake line with no issue. Unfortunately this did not fix my issue. My rear right rotor still gets hot. Its obviously warped but I would assume that even if the rotor was warped, it should freely push the piston caliper back so that even the high spots wont cause the caliper to momentarily catch it every time my wheel spins.
I think my next course of action is to bleed the ABS with my bi-directional scan tool. I have the XTOOL Anyscan A30M which claims it supports ABS bleeding. I figure I'll try that and then if the ABS bleed doesn't work, I'll try OEM calipers along with new rotors and pads. If neither of those fix the issue then I'm not sure what else the issue could be.
If that brake is heating up something is still causing it to stick.
I was just reading this website. Surprisingly this person has the same exact issue as me (rear right rotor/disc) getting hotter than left under normal driving conditions. Wonder if there is a defect from the factory? This has been happening since I've got the car used 10 years and 80k miles ago.
Looks like some other possibilities are that the emergency brake cable is dragging and maybe causing the shoes to catch on the combination disc/brake drum (although I would be surprised if it just affected one rear wheel and not both). Another possibility is the hard brake line might be kinked/restricted. And another possibility is the "proportion valve" might be causing an internal failure at the master brake cylinder.
Most of those things are less common than brake hose problems but are certainly possible. I'd say the next most frequent possibility is a problem with the parking brake.
Awesome, I think we will bleed the ABS and then if that doesn't fix it, we will inspect the e-brake cable and possibly replace the e-brake drum components