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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Roller Crank Bearings | 116Relevance | 4 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| here's an explanation from a turbine engineer: 1. Load is pretty high, you can design a roller bearing to withstand the load pretty easily but it would be relatively large, noticeably larger than a typical journal bearing. You might be able to fit it in the same axial space on the crankshaft but at the very least you'd have to greatly increase the size of the bottom of the connecting rod to fit in a roller bearing. If you need more axial room than a typical journal bearing you'll probably end up having to lengthen the crankshaft which would force you to lengthen the block. Packaging a correctly sized bearing could significantly affect the rest of the engine design in a bad way. You don't want your bearing design to drive the rest of the engine. 2. Because of reason 1 you're increasing the rotating mass of the engine which isn't a good thing. Also, the balance of the crankshaft will likely be thrown off. Trying to balance a shaft assembly that has 4, 6 or 8 roller bearings on it would be a complete pain, you'd have to make sure each bearing weighed a pretty exact weight or you'd have a crankshaft that was out of balance. I can tell you right now that even bearings for aerospace can differ in weight enough from one bearing to the next that this would be a problem. It's not insurmountable but it would be a concern. Requiring the mass of bearings to be within a certain spec would increase the cost. 3. Roller bearings have limited life. For turbines we can get bearing lives in the 10k hours, 20k hours, or even upwards of 100k hour range depending on the design. However, they pretty much all have a limited life. While they could design bearings beefy enough to effectively have a longer life than the car the size and cost of those bearings would be horrendous. The bearing life for realistically sized bearings would probably be quite low. On the other hand a normal journal bearing has effectively infinite life as long as it has a constant supply of good oil. They have no contacting parts during normal operation and only really wear during starting, stopping, operation with very cold oil, or if something is wrong with the engine. Most modern cars never need their bearings replaced. 4. The life mentioned above for roller bearings is only valid if the oil is extremely clean. The oil in car engines is relatively filthy compared to what is needed for roller or ball bearings running under high loads. There's hard particles all over the place. However, for a car engine the journal bearings have such a thick oil film that the typical containment particle size is smaller than the thickness of the oil film. That lets the particle flow right through without actually being crushed between the inner and outer parts of the journal bearing. On a roller bearing the oil film between the raceways and rollers is much smaller. A particle that flows right through the journal bearing with no problem would get pinched between the roller and raceway. This can create a little dent in the metal and create a point for a crack to begin forming. A large enough dent can take a bearing that has a 100k hour predicted life down to a few hundred hours. This is one of the reasons why transmissions which have rolling element bearings (ball or roller bearings) do not share oil with the engine, it would significantly lower the life of the transmission bearings. 5. As was mentioned before there's no good way to install the bearings without a split ring. That's a poor design for a highly loaded bearing. You could try to make the crank out of a material that would be a suitable raceway material (EXPENSIVE) and then thread the outer ring around the bends in the crank. That may not be possible because the outer ring really isn't that much larger than the other bearing features. You'd then have to install the rollers by hand and use a two piece cage. I'm not a huge fan of two piece cages and the amount of hand assembly would be very expensive and prone to assembly errors. It's not worth the trouble, you're more or less stuck with a split ring. 6. More parts, harder to assemble, and more things to break. None of these things are what car companies want. They'd also be more sensitive to how they're handled before assembly. Many bearing steels used for highly loaded bearings rust like you wouldn't believe. If you let it sit out in the open it will rust. If you touch it with bare hands you might have a rusty finger print form (the oil in your hands attracts water). If you let the vehicle sit for a few months the oil film left on the bearing can attract moisture. That will rust too. Car companies wants the parts to be easy to handle, assemble, and don't want to add any additional service to the car. 7. COST, COST, and did I mention COST? Journal bearings are cheap. I mean ridiculously cheap. I can guarantee that car companies are paying very little for your typical journal bearing. A roller bearing would be significantly more expensive to buy and more difficult to install. Our aerospace bearings can cost hundreds per bearing (I've got one on my desk for a development engine that cost over $3k per bearing to make ), an automotive bearing would be cheaper but it could still be 10x or 100x more than it costs for a journal bearing. | |||||
| Answer to: Fyi for my fellow mechanics. Mercedes issues after wheel bearing replacement. | 48Relevance | 3 years ago | Nissanrob88 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Not to long along I posted about my 2003 e320 wheel bearing being slightly to large. In turn it caused a bas, esp, and, break malfunction. Along with causing the transmission to shift funny . I decided to put the bearing back in with out hub again and measure the distance. I was curious on how big the gap actually was that caused all these issues It was a whopping. 0.010 inch or 0.254 mm. Yes that tiny of a gap caused the bearing not to sit properly , caused hub to be far enough from wheel speed sensor it caused malfunctions. Another reason why not to b ... | |||||
| What does a bad wheel bearing sound like? | 48Relevance | 2 years ago | TheBlackTop | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey scotty, I’m trying to know what does a bad wheel bearing sound and looks like. Just today I was working on my 2002 Civic by replacing both front control arms and the driver CV Axle. I had a coworker helping me to finish faster and he note me that my wheel bearing has signs that it’s heating up. What I saw on the wheel bearing is rust and sign that it was burning up. I watched video of how a bad wheel bearing sound like but none of them sound like it. I just want to know the sound and symptoms of a bad wheel bearing. | |||||
| Wheel bearing replacement? | 43Relevance | 5 years ago | Rocco | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I plan to replace the right front wheel bearing on my 2000 Toyota Camry (non-ABS), and it has press-in style wheel bearings. The kit came with a new hub, so I'm replacing that, as well. I'm a bit nervous as I've never done a wheel bearing before. Is it possible to press the bearing onto the hub and then press on the hub and bearing together as one unit? I'm worried that I'll damage the bearing while pressing the hub on. | |||||
| Should I replace just the wheel bearing or the whole hub assembly? | 69Relevance | 3 years ago | Peter_Piper 1972 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scotty, I own a 2005 Honda Pilot that I have been told by my mechanic needs to have the front passenger side wheel bearing replaced. I have been driving on it for quite some time now, and since I'm coming up on inspection, I will absolutely need to finally replace it. It will cost close to 450 for just the bearing job if I have my mechanic replace the bearing, or, with doing some search online, I find from various discount auto suppliers who are offering deals like two loaded knuckles for 255. such as this sight from 1Aauto 2005 Honda Pilot Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Suspension Knuckle Kit with Steering Knuckle TRQ BHA34235 (1aauto.com) when AutoZone shows that same part for 595.-611. apiece Front wheel bearing Assembly - Find the Right Part at the Right Price | AutoZone My question is, and I never pressed out a bearing: would replacing the whole knuckle be an easier job that I can do myself instead of pressing out the bearing (I change my own breaks and rotors) and would I be sacrificing quality for price if I purchased the two-knuckle set from 1aauto over the AutoZone? I would get the dual knuckle set to do both front wheels if I don't have to worry about if the strength of steal will hold up and that I can perform the job myself. Just worried about the "Too Good to Be True" factor. Please note, I included links to both websites offerings in this post. Thank You Scotty for all that you do for us. Peter | |||||
| Ford Focus 2013 Front bearing noise.....maybe | 57Relevance | 6 years ago | Bootstrap | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| HI, Ford Focus 2013, 59,000 miles second set of tires. Cooper CS5 ULTRA tires at 34,000 miles... issue. slowly but surely developed after a good 10,000 miles or so on these tires a "bearing noise". bearing noise starts at 35mph and on. right turns, left turns, straight, coasting etc.....some sort of front bearing noise. never goes away. you don't feel it in the steering wheel. rotating tires does not help. tire inspection shows just a slight cupping on inside of all 4 tires..slightly. The car has had the clutch transmission shutter worked on 2 times. Clutches replaced, etc. Still, I hear a "bearing noise". Almost convinced its a bearing or CV Axle noise. no Clicking. a "bearing Noise". I also have a newer Ford Fusion with 3000 miles on it. Michelin X Energy tires. A very quiet car. I have switched the Cooper and Michelin tires between the two cars, Fusion and Focus. Expecting the "bearing Noise" to follow the Cooper tires, if its the Coopers. WRONG! The Coopers on the Fusion are quiet. The Michelin's on the Focus are quiet. no bearing noise! Gees. The Michelins are a slightly bigger and wider tire compared to the Coopers. Just, the noise did not follow..... and both cars are not having the bearing noise....driving from 30mph up to 60mph. Geometry changes a little (camber\caster?) with different tires.... as of now, tires are back on the the perspective cars.... bearing noise on the Focus. any idea as to? | |||||
| A Speed dependent knocking in left rear wheel or brake assembly | 49Relevance | 4 years ago | SMW | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I have a Lexus, ES 330, 2005, V6, automatic, with 115,000 miles on it. Over a year ago I put new NAPA rotors, NAPA pads and rebuilt AISIN calipers on both sides of the rear. Also I had new O'Reilly brand parking brakes installed. They worked fine on both sides for 15 months. Then this year a wheel bearing went bad on the right side and then the ABS sensor failed (in the bearing assembly) on the left side. Two months ago I had a indy shop install a new right rear bearing carrier bracket, wheel bearing assembly, and splash guard. Everything was fine. Two weeks ago I had the same indy shop install a new left rear bearing carrier bracket, wheel bearing assembly, and splash guard. Everything appeared good and it ran fine for about 20 miles. Then a knocking sound began on the left rear. Its frequency varied with the speed of he vehicle. I adjusted and cleaned the brake pads thinking they were loose and I tightened a slightly loose brake caliper mounting bracket. Knocking came back after two miles. Next I replaced the NAPA pads with Akebono pads and bracket/shims that hold the pads in place. Same knocking occurred after two miles of driving. I took it back to the shop they tore it all apart. They found the brake pads were not flat. So they sanded them flat and reinstalled them. They said the new bearing assembly seemed good. Then I drove it about 30 miles after they did this and it appeared the knock was gone. But then it started up again and became just as bad as it ever was. The knock seems to lessen while the brakes are being applied. The brake assembly became quite hot while driving it home with the knocking going on. I am stumped. What might this be? Bad new bearing? Warped rotor? Both? Thanks, SMW | |||||
| Replacing hub and wheel bearing | 40Relevance | 3 years ago | Sandpresident | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, I have a 2007 ford focus se and I am going to try to replace the wheel bearing and axle in it. I bought a wheel bearing hub assembly rather than just the bearing. Since this is my first time I am trying to plan out every step. Could I install the bearing into the hub before starting this work since it’s a new assembly? All the videos I see have the bearing out into the old hub, but if I can do that part before starting the whole project I wonder if it will save me time? Thank you | |||||
| Hey scotty, i had a mechanic do my wheel bearing on my 05 civic lx, now when my car hits 20-40 mph i hear a humming from the side with the new wheel bearing, its worse in the rain | 37Relevance | 6 years ago | Andyperalta | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey scotty, i had a mechanic do my wheel bearing on my 05 civic lx, now when my car hits 20-40 mph i hear a humming from the side with the new wheel bearing, its worse in the rain | |||||
| Answer to: Front wheel bearing keeps going bad | 36Relevance | 2 years ago | Shone200 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| We had this same problem when we replaced the wheel bearings in our 06 Camry. We first replaced it with the aftermarket wheel bearings from AutoZone. The same problem persisted so we thought maybe the part was defective and replaced it again with the same aftermarket ones. The wheel bearing was still making noise. So we Replaced it again with National brand wheel bearings and it fixed the problem. For wheel bearings never buy aftermarket ones they go bad really quick or you will still hear the noise from the wheel bearing. Always buy the OEM ones. National or Timken is best. | |||||
| After getting Front Wheel Bearing changed, 7 months later it goes out again | 47Relevance | 5 years ago | planner | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I got my 2005 Camry 2.4l LE's front wheel bearing changed on the (front) passenger side(It is a press bearing). The mechanic gave me a 1-year warranty. It went out again in 7 months. I paid (7 months ago) them to put a Moog one in because they claimed the Autozone part was not gonna be good. I accepted and paid for extra and I supplied the hub from AutoZone asking them if they accepted that. Because the hub according to them was not that important and they said bearing is the important one. This morning I took it back to the mechanic and they confirmed the bearing and they said they might have to charge me again if the sound is coming from the hub. If it's bearing they won't charge me. They wanted to check if the sound is coming from the bearing or the hub. I said ok, but thinking after hub cannot make a sound like that and it is not a bearing part that is in constant motion. I don't want to be tricked by a mechanic. My questions are: Can the sound come from the hub? Does it seem like a mechanic trick to ask for more money for their improper installation or quality of the part that I paid greatly extra compared to the Autozone price? If someone with experience can answer I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you all. | |||||
| Answer to: 2020 Camry Wheel bearing | 43Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| They don't mockingly call dealerships "stealerships" for nothing. The dealer has tremendous overhead, and they need to make money on their "service" side, or they would be going under. Depends on the front or back wheel. When I replaced a wheel bearing in my 2013 Ford Fusion, rather than screwing around with a bearing, I purchased the whole OEM hub, and I did it myself in a few hours with basic hand tools and a torque wrench. The main thing that ticked me off was I had to use a slide hammer to get the bad hub off, three years after they made it (this was 2016). All of the work was getting off that hub. I would assume a front hub wouldn't be that much different than a rear hub. It's definitely not a $1000 job. Get a shop you trust to look at it. I have a 1979 Pontiac Catalina, and the rear main seal went out while I was driving down the highway. Long story short, I saved the engine by taking it to a trustworthy shop. The mechanic was younger than the car and I had to school him a little. It took a month to get my car back, but it hasn't leaked a bit of oil since. It cost $600 to replace the rear main. If I had taken that to a dealership and they had to hold it for a month, I'd be out several thousand dollars. | |||||
| Car full body wobble at exact 58-60km/hr | 41Relevance | 5 years ago | mehrankhantest | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Ford Mustang V6 3.7L Convertible 2015 Model Mileage: 97k Bought this car two months ago. Car was having a lot of vibrations at different speeds. Car full body wobbles exactly at same speed irrespective of engine rpm or gear. Started with fixing: 1. Changed all four tires new kumho ecsta ps71 235-50R18 2. Changed front suspension (control arms, link rods, tie rods, stablizer, front struts assemebly) 3. Did wheel balancing and alignment 4. Changed front wheel bearing ( found the front right bearing installed before was third party not even ford genuine) 5. Installed a used driveshaft (checked for any u joints and bends) all good Now still vibration is felt exactly between 58-60 km/hr and some times between 88-92km/hr if there is more weight in the car and the soft convertible top is open, which most of the weight is shifted towards the back, the car gets stable and vibration are rarely felt I know my rear suspension needs repair, but vibration at this specific speed irrespective of Acceleration, Deceleration, Neutral is not something related to suspension Also humming sound is heard above 75km/hr which indicates a rear wheel bearing issue. And diminishes around 110km/hr. passenger seat is continuously shaking and if i keep my hand over it it will shake my hand. Rear view mirror shakes as well depending upon speed range (60 km/hr high vibration, other speeds minor) High tire pressure(35-36 psi due to hot roads) makes vibration harsher. Now two things are possible, checked rear for wheel bearings but with tire mounted doesn’t show much sign of bad wheel bearings. either it is wheel bearing or torque converter (but why would it shake in neutral at that speed if related to torque converter) please advise. Or should I purchase the NVH app and try that out before changing the wheel bearing for rear | |||||
| RE: Fyi for my fellow mechanics. Mercedes issues after wheel bearing replacement. | 36Relevance | 3 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| that's weird. The URL doesn't look right. Try this link: Where did you enter the search terms? | |||||
| RE: Fyi for my fellow mechanics. Mercedes issues after wheel bearing replacement. | 36Relevance | 3 years ago | Nissanrob88 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I searched "2003 e320 wheel bearing" and it said no records found. I also tried looking through recent activity but I forget the exact header I used which didn't help. | |||||
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