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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Mystery coolant leak | 66Relevance | 3 years ago | Verticy | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2016 Hyunda Elantra *MYSTERY coolant LEAK?!* Need Help, This Question Forum is my LAST Shot of Getting an Answer! Hi there! I currently have been dealing with my most annoying coolant leak imaginable. It doesn't seem like a massive issue (or maybe it is?), but I'll say for sure that it's a big stressor. Just for some history of the car... early this year I took my car from North Carolina to California and BACK! The tires needed to be completely changed. Ok... not so bad... A few months ago I took my car from North Carolina to Niagara Falls (Canada) and BACK! The alternator was replaced, alongside the battery. Upon arrival at Niagara Falls, we got STRANDED there as the engine seized! My 130,000-mile engine was replaced with an engine with 33,000 miles on it. Amazing, but... EXPENSIVE! I tell you this because I am now constantly paranoid about every tick, every sound, and every problem with my car. And I want answers to ensure that my car lives as long as possible. So on to the more up-to-date issue of the car... the coolant leak! There's not a massive puddle foaming out of the car as soon as I put in more coolant. Which... now I have 2 full bottles of coolant just in case I need it at any point. The problem is... it's a mystery coolant leak! So, at first, the coolant was losing about an inch of coolant every single day in the big coolant reservoir tank. The issue with that is it was annoying to constantly refill every week or so... but all of a sudden it had stopped? I did my attempts at troubleshooting the small problems, I replaced the radiator cap, I replaced the air filter, I looked around for any visible leaks, and nothing... until this last 2-3 weeks, all of a sudden my coolant reservoir tank is not moving at ALL, it's no longer leaking, but instead-- now where you pour in the coolant after taking the radiator cap off-- not the coolant reservoir tank, the radiator tank... now that's empty. I filled it up a few days ago, and now it's lower than before. I will say, after taking the radiator cap off and checking it, it's not completely bone dry, but it is very low compared to how much it was filled up. I was tempted to pour in some radiator stop leak, but I immediately stopped and decided to look up my issue, get answers, and think this through before doing some irreversible damage on accident like clogging the heater core, etc. Occasionally when I drive the car, I smell something sweet. And I know that's coolant... also after long drives, when I pop the hood open there is dried white stuff sprayed everywhere (dried coolant). Now when I say everywhere, I mean it's mainly splattered near the cooling fan; as if the coolant is dropping onto the fan, and the fan is splattering the coolant around that region. When the car isn't running, there is no sign of leakage (there was once, earlier on when troubleshooting this car, and I did actually use a coolant leak repair thing, and my car hasn't leaked coolant since). As of now, there is no sign of coolant leakage apart from when the car is running. I don't really know what to do apart from carrying on with my "detective work", and narrowing down what is wrong with the car. The car hasn't been overheating at all when driving, and the only thing I've noticed performance-wise is when I'm stopped at a stop sign or a red light-- the steering wheel can feel more vibration as opposed to when moving. (probably is normal, I don't know-- as I said, I'm just really paranoid about every tick, vibration, or sound my car makes now). And the last thing I can mention about this problem is that rarely, but something I can hear a water sloshing sound on the right-hand side. And that is all of the clues that I have and the symptoms that my car is having at the moment. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TLDR: coolant reservoir tank lost about an inch a day until eventually stopped, then the radiator cap tank starts losing coolant, smelling of something sweet (coolant) when driving sometimes, dried coolant sprayed all over the front part of the engine-- splatter maybe from dripping on the radiator fan. so far the car has a new: radiator fan, engine, engine start block, battery, alternator, tires, air filter, and radiator cap. (WHAT ELSE NEEDS CHANGING?! haha!) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for reading and helping Best regards, Verticy. | |||||
| Answer to: Should I use waterless antifreeze | 62Relevance | 4 years ago | LeeG | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2008 Lexus GX 470 about 150k. Since about 100k, my former mechanic ran evans waterless coolant, which is still in there. I am now doing all maintenance and repair and know that the Toyota HOAT coolant is the advised choice. I am leaning on going back to HOAT even though I haven’t had any issues with evans. Any comments or familiarity with evans and long term effects vs OEM coolant? Thanks all. | |||||
| Anti freeze | 36Relevance | 5 years ago | Issac | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... forth. The old cars can over heat sitting in traffic so I'm wondering what anti freeze would be best can i use it in my 327 engine? I have heard about evans anti freeze but it is a little bit pricey. You can find videos on YouTube about evans. So i was thinking about Toyota anti freeze. Thank you in advance | |||||
| RE: 2004 Toyota corolla Coolant flush | 26Relevance | 2 years ago | cmd_car | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @chucktobias Thanks. I was able to bleed the air and add about 3L of coolant. Now it blows hot air-no overheating indicated by the engine. I added coolant through radiator cap opening, the reservoir tank was showing no sign of coolant inside. Then I add about 500ml of coolant into the reservoir tank (coolant level is in between LOW & FILL). Still when radiator cap is open, I can not see any coolant inside radiator. I may need to add more coolant. will monitor... Regarding coolant flush when I have oil issue..I am in the process of doing service. Next in line to change oil, oil filter, spark plugs, PCV valve & rocker cover gasket...Hopefully will solve the oil burning issue.. | |||||
| 2005 Toyota Tundra coolant on injectors | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Robert_carfan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2005 Toyota Tundra with the 4.7V8 its also 4wd its got 327k miles on it and it started running bad and when I pulled the first fuel injector out I could see coolant on the injector and could smell coolant on the injector for cyl 3 but the rest of the injectors are dry of any coolant. But I dont see coolant on the oil dipstick and the coolant is not overfilling the overflow. Could a blown headgasket still leak coolant onto the fuel injectors? Ive never seen coolant on fuel injectors before Im hoping its as simple as the intake gasket. | |||||
| 1998 Mazda 626 Coolant Fan not turning on when engine warms up. | 50Relevance | 2 years ago | jdubemazda | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, I have a 1998 Mazda 626 2.0L 4 cylinder with 260,000mi. I just did a bunch of work involving new timing belt, water pump, belts, coolant sensor & coolant sending unit sensor, thermostat, all new coolant hoses (all of them). I finished and started engine and i notice the coolant fan will not turn on when it is suppose to. I have checked the coolant fan relay which is unmarked on mazdas (thank mazda) it clicks when sending voltage to it and i have switched with other known relays that are the same. I have 4-5 volts reading on the coolant sensor plug terminal and there is continuity between relay and coolant sensor plug. the coolant fan motor works when power is supplied so motor is fine. When the car is running, and i remove the coolant sensor plug, Both the A/c fan and the coolant fan come on together, then when i put the plug back onto the coolant sensor they both turn off and neither will come on on their own. also I believe the a/c doesn't work either unless the plug is off of the coolant sensor. I have done my best to "burp" the system for coolant using the funnel on the radiator cap method to get fluid higher up than the engine. heater controls on high,fan low speed, rev engine a little. I feel and can squish coolant fluid in the return rubber coolant pipe so and it gets hot so i feel like coolant is flowing through and the thermostat is opening? i am at a loss of things to try. i don't have and OBD code reader and maybe that is what i need? I thought it is something easy i am just missing. the old sensor worked fine before all the work done to it, also tried the old sensor but still same problem. like it is not communicating with the computer somehow and registering that the engine is hot and needs to come on. i also tested resistance on the coolant temp sensor and resistance drops as the temp heats up. I watched a bunch of Scotty's videos as well as others and i can't figure it out. any help? thanks. I just really like to know stuff and this one has got me beat. | |||||
| Engine Coolant/Anti-freeze change | 23Relevance | 4 years ago | Shan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scotty, Is Engine coolant aka Anti-freeze same for all cars? I just noticed that my Mazda 3(2004-2.0L Engine ---85k on Odometer) has coolant at the Min Level..I have been driving this car since 2012 and never had the coolant changed.I don't know if the previous owners got it changed as well. Shall i leave it at Min Level or change it or top it up? .. Any idea which coolant should i go for? Also, at stores the coolant i see is 3.78 L...The car requires very little coolant and i don't know shall i buy this much coolant and then store it for years?? Thx | |||||
| Coolant in all 4 cylinders from cracked coolant hoses | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | sbath241 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Yesterday, when my car was cooling down at idle, one of the coolant hoses cracked and coolant started spraying all of over the engine. The car lost a lot of coolant and start overheating. I added some water to the radiator, then drove around 5 miles to get home. Today I try to start the car, it just crank but won’t start. So, I removed the ignition coil and noticed coolant in all 4 cylinder. I soaked most of the coolant from the cylinders, I also changed the oil. But the car still won’t start, it just crank. Please help me | |||||
| Acura ILX 2016 should I flush Hepu G12 coolant and replace it with original Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Evgeniy | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, only 3000 miles ago I changed a fluid on Acura ILX 2016 that I bought wrecked, mechanic who fixed it said that that I need to buy red coolant. I bought Hepu G12. Now I see that in owner manual it says "Specified coolant: Acura Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2", should I flush Hepu G12 coolant and replace it with original Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 or leave it as it is? | |||||
| Answer to: 1995 Maxima coolant reservoir losing coolant | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Razmig Bartassian | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Have the car warm-up and look around for any leaks. It may be a very small leak considering it takes 2-3 weeks to empty out. The radiator will remain full as long as there is extra coolant in the reservoir. Have you checked your oil to see if coolant is mixing with it? Look at each coolant hose and its connection, check the water pump, check the thermostat, look at your engine block to see if any is leaking from the head, check underneath the radiator for slight leaks. The engine could even be burning small amounts of coolant if the head gasket is bad. Check everything that has to do with the coolant system. Please keep us posted. | |||||
| 2011 Nissan Frontier Engine noise diagnosis | 43Relevance | 5 years ago | Joshlj | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, My name is Josh. I have a 2011 Nissan Frontier SV 4.0L 6 cylinder with automatic Transmission with approx. 155,000 miles current OBDII codes include Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 and Mass Air Flow Sensor. I have been the sole owner of the truck since i bought it in 2011. This truck has been owned and driven in New England Area the last 10 years. While driving my truck a very short distance this morning less than a mile my truck started making a super loud noise. The only way i can describe the noise is a grinding metal on metal noise that sounds like it is coming from the engine, sounds like a jet engine ready for take off. When i first started hearing the noise, I didn't notice any change in performance for the remaining short distance I drove it to the nearest parking lot and parked in the nearest spot I could find this was probably less than 500ft of additional driving after the noise started. After parking the truck was immediately turned off. The distance driven total wasn't even enough distance to allow the truck water temperature to heat up to normal operational temp, it was still cold when it was parked. After allowing the truck to sit for a few minutes I attempted to restart the engine, it appeared to have no issues starting, however, the original sound had gone away and there was a new sound as if the engine was running rough sort of like a knocking or ticking and chirping sound and within approx 12 seconds the loud noise originally heard came back very suddenly. I repeated this process and got the same results and also took a short video and uploaded to my google drive, here is the link: After taking this video I popped the hood and did a visual inspection of under the hood I checked the oil and it was full and looked fine, also I check the coolant level, which still had the radiator full and a decent amount still in the reservoir. In addition I also checked all of the hoses to make sure they were all snug to make sure any of the vacuum hoses didn't come off or loose causing the vehicle to run rough. I also started the truck one last time while looking at the dash to make sure the oil pressure gage showed oil pressure between L and H like it normally does and also a quick check for unexpected dash lights. There weren't any unexpected dash lights and the oil pressure was normal. I am trying to get an idea of what this might be before I have it towed to a mechanic shop, so that I'm not being told something its not so they can get more money out of me. My gut feeling diagnosis is the water pump, but i have never had a water pump go bad on me with any of my vehicles, so i have no idea what it sounds like, however, after this morning and looking back at a series of events it makes sense to me that it might be the water pump. The following I have taken into consideration to come up with my suspect diagnosis. About a year ago my heat stopped working in the truck when the truck was at idle and the only way to get heat was above 2,000 rpm. I originally though it was the thermostat went bad so I was getting ready to do the thermostat replacement and then realized my coolant was low, so i refilled the coolant instead and my heat came back during idle but that only lasted about a week so then I checked the coolant again and it was a little low so i topped it off assuming i didn't get all the air out of the coolant hoses when i initially refilled the coolant. Since then about once a month I have been adding coolant about a gallon of coolant approx. every 3 weeks or so. After 2 months I started to suspect the water pump was leaking and then learned of the weep hole and figured the vehicle was getting old maybe it was normal for the coolant to leak more from the weep hole and dismissed the issue and just kept adding coolant as needed. Just last week I changed the oil in the truck, however, on the under side of the oil cap i saw some brown sludge and assumed that I had a blown head gasket, but after looking at the old oil, it was a normal dark brown color and had the normal oil consistency to it, I added some stop leak to the new engine oil just in case and didn't notice any white smoke from the exhaust. I also took the ignition coils off and took the spark plugs out and looked inside with a flash light for any signs of fluids that weren't supposed to be in the cylinders and surprisingly they were actually pretty clean. So I figured because of all the super short trip driving I had been doing I was just getting a little bit of blow back into the crankshaft that might have caused the brown sludge, but just to be on the safe side in emptied all the coolant and refilled with new coolant and added a small bottle of K-seal. After starting the truck i though I heard something that sounded like an occasional knocking sound that would come and go, and I figured that maybe I still had air in the coolant hoses so i turned the truck off and and burped the hoses and added more coolant and repeated this process about 3 more times until I couldn't add any more coolant, by this time the knocking sound seemed to have disappeared, so i thought i was right about the knocking sound being air in the coolant system. I also chose this time to add some fuel injector cleaner to the gas and drove the truck around the block and noticed an almost immediate positive change in performance and engine idle. The more i drove the truck this last week the better the engine seemed to operate all the way up until today when it all of a sudden started making that god awful loud grinding noise. This noise came on so suddenly it doesn't make any sense to me after the truck running like a dream this whole last week. I apologize for the war and peace novel and I'm sure there is plenty of irrelevant information here. My suspect and my hope is a bad water pump. Please anyone let me know if you think I am way off on this or if I'm headed down the right path. My fear is a blown head gasket, but also makes the least amount of sense to me, because its missing all the other signs of a blown head gasket. I don't want to keep starting the vehicle or drive it anywhere, so that if it is something more serious than a water pump I don't end up damaging it anymore. I really don't know anything about vehicles in the slightest. I only recently started doing my own vehicle maintenance out of necessity to save money because finances have been tight this whole past year. Thank you for you help! | |||||
| Answer to: Coolant flush or coolant refill? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Marshall Sweet | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You can get your own coolant tester for under $15 and if its good then go ahead and just refill it. In my experience coolant typically stays good, I got a 75 firebird that hasn't had its coolant changed in over 35 years and to my surprise the coolant was still good, no, it was actually better than the new coolant I got for it. | |||||
| Coolant flush or coolant refill? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Widitha | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi guys I have a Toyota Camry V6 with 161k miles doing prettt good except for some oil burning. I noticed the coolant level is a little low and from past service experience the coolant hasn’t been changed ever. Should I just drain the coolant and refill or do a coolant flush? Toyota dealer suggested me to do a coolant flush for 189 dollars and jiffy lube said it’s 139. Please give me advise on what to do. thank you | |||||
| Answer to: Old Mercedes-Benz C320 Doesn't Shift into 2nd Gear Until Car is Restarted | 38Relevance | 3 years ago | DontKnowler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| " we had an issue recently where engine oil was mixing with coolant fluid ... the transmission issues started afterwards"- Luckily I have no personal experience with oil and coolant mixing together. I can only confirm that this sounds like a severe engine-internal problem ranging from a blowing headgasket to cracks in the engine head or block. I can also confirm that in some rare and lucky cases you can get rid of this problem, at least temporarily, by using hacks like headgasket sealants added to your engine oil. Unless - unless it is just a leak in the oil-and-coolant heat exchanger. In Mercedes cars those are poorly built and tend to have oil leaks to the oitside, especially during cold weather, and this is a widely known issue I also used to have; however in rare cases those leaks can be exchanger-internal too, and in the latter case the result could be oil and coolant mixing together. This heat exchanger is inexpensive and not hard to replace even in DIY mode. Newer versions of this part are much better made than OEM ones.-This coolant-in-engine oil problem however sounds very engine-internal, and I have no idea how this could have affected your gearbox.-However unluckily for me I have excessive experience with coolant getting into my automatic gearbox = automatic transmission fluid = ATF. I had this issue on my 30 yo Audi, however my w163 is technically prone to such issues as well, just as any other car with an integrated ATF-and-coolant radiator is. In most such radiators, only two tiny O-rings separate the coolant and the ATF circuit. Those O-rings are non-replaceable and are hidden deep inside the radiator internals, and once they lose elasticity (and with age they tend to do so), your coolant will start getting into your ATF. You can easily tell that your ATF has coolant within, because in this case it gets a very specific look - I hope "foamy" is the right word for it: with many tiny air bubbles within. Also, the ATF level starts to increase (cause the inflowing coolant volume adds up to the ATF volume). It is hard not to notice foam in the coolant visually, neither is it possible not to notice this when you drive cause this comes with heavy slippage of the friction disks when switching "upwards". But I did not mention this scenario earlier cause you wrote that you had your ATF level (although incorrectly) checked by a mechanic, and even a bad mechanic would have noticed that an ATF is foamy. So I hope this is not your scenario. Cause if it is, it is often the end of your transmission: the friction disks within the automatic gearbox consist of some sort of cardboard-like material, which is very friction-resistant when operated in ATF, but which would fall apart almost instantaneously when operated in contact with water, coolant or similar other non-oily liquids. Particles which get into the ATF as your friction disks start to degrade rapidly due to the latter getting in contact with coolant are also impossible not to notice in the ATF when doing any level checks. | |||||
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