General Maintenance

Fluids

If it's a used car and you're unsure of the history, then perform the maintenance.

• Engine Oil
  • Check your oil regularly to make sure it's full (inside the safe range marked on the dipstick). If your engine consumes oil, then check it more often. Every time you fill up the fuel, or more when required. Driving with low oil is very bad for engines.
  • Change your engine oil + filter every 5,000 mi (8,000 km) or every year, whichever comes first. Adjust for unusual factors. You can change it less often if you primarily drive on freeways. Change it more often if you tow, drive short trips, experience oil dilution, have high miles, etc.
  • There's no such thing as a 10,000 mile oil change interval. (these are marketing tactics to sell more cars)
  • Links to more information about: what kind of oil to use, and how often to change it.

• Transmission - check the dipstick (if equipped) every oil change.
  • Automatic: drain and fill the fluid, and change filter (if equipped) every 50,000 miles (80,000 km). Less if you tow.
  • CVT: drain and fill the fluid, and change filter (if equipped) every 30,000 miles (50,000 km). Do not tow with a CVT.
  • Manual: drain and fill the fluid every 60,000 miles (100,000 km).
  • There's no such thing as "lifetime fluid". (sales tactics)
  • There's no such thing as a "sealed" transmission.
  • Read our transmission article for more info.

• Coolant - Check the level often so your engine doesn't overheat. There should be 'cold' and 'hot' marks on the tank.
  • Read what the lifetime says on a new bottle of antifreeze. Most antifreeze today are designed to last five years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first.
  • Use an antifreeze tester (less than $10) to make sure your concentration is strong enough to protect the engine.
  • Replace the pressure cap and thermostat when they get old.

• Brake & Power steering fluid - Check every oil change
  • Bleed both fluids every 150,000 miles (240,000 km) or 10 years, whichever comes first.
  • Brake fluid level naturally goes down as your pads wear, but should never go below the minimum mark
  • Power steering fluid should have markings for cold and hot levels.

• Driveline - Check every oil change
  • Rear axle: drain and fill axle fluid every 60,000 miles (100,000 km), or right away if it gets contaminated (deep water)
  • Transfer case and front axle (4WD) - drain and fill every 50,000 miles (80,000 km). Less for severe use.

Pre-trip Checklist

In the winter, bring chains or some other traction aid, and a shovel.

Storage

Cars like to be driven.

Cars were designed with regular driving in mind. Sitting parked is the worst thing for a car. They need the heat and movement and lubrication to maintain good function.

That being said, there are some things you can do to make storage easier on a car. The amount of prep needed will vary according to how long the vehicle will be parked.

Preparation:

Fuel & fluids

• Put some fresh oil in the engine before storing the vehicle. You don't want the dirty, contaminated stuff sitting in there a long time.
• Make sure the antifreeze is up to date. The freeze and corrosion protection from a fresh jug typically last 5 years. Check the concentration with a antifreeze tester.
• Gasoline goes bad over time. Especially gas with ethanol in it.
• Fill up the fuel tank. This keeps out moisture and the pump submerged.

Tires

• Tires can develop flat spots that will damage the belts inside. If stored for a short period of time, you can just use a higher pressure to keep them round (but stay within the maximum stamped on the tire sidewall). For long term storage, it's better the leave the car propped on blocks of wood.

Battery

• Batteries left sitting connected for more than a month will not only lose their charge, but also begin to lose lifespan.
• Batteries that have gone flat can also freeze, destroying them.
• To prevent discharge into the vehicle electronics, you can simply unhook the battery negative cable.
• If storing for more than around 5 weeks, unhook the battery (or remove completely) and connect it to an inexpensive trickle charger/battery maintainer.

Pest control

• Close up windows and sunroofs. If parked where there's wildlife, take steps to block entries to where critters can make homes or get inside the cabin, such as: engine air intake, exhaust tailpipe, blower intake (cowl). Remember that rodents like to chew and shred, so use something like metal mesh. Rodents are also known to chew wires, which can lead to major destruction.

Upkeep:

Warm-up

• If at all possible, start the car up periodically, or have someone else do it for you. Do it at least every month, and let the engine reach full operating temperature. This will drive off any moisture and contamination, will re-coat the interior of the engine with oil to prevent corrosion, and prevent seals from drying out.
• Even better is if you can take the car for a trip around the block. This will exercise the rest of the drivetrain and chassis. Believe it or not, tires actually benefit from being driven on, and will last longer.
• If you have a block heater, make use of it. The worst wear to an engine happens when it's started dry with cold oil.

Redeployment:

Warm-up

• Plug in the block heater (if equipped) or put it in a heated garage for a day.
• Remove pest control you used.
• Check all the fluids to make sure they're full.
• Adjust tires to correct air pressure.
• Start the engine, and let come up to full operating temperature before driving away.

Top end lube

• If a vehicle was stored for a very long time, then the engine will be bone dry and have some corrosion inside. Starting up such an engine as-is could cause damage, and needs some help with top end lubrication.
• Remove the spark plugs , add a small amount of some thin penetrating oil , and let it soak a bit.
• Turn the engine over by hand. Sometimes you can do this by grabbing the mechanical fan blades, but bigger or high compression engines may require a breaker bar on one of the pulleys. Turn it over a few times until it moves freely.
• Spray some gas with a small amount of 2-stroke oil (or off-the-shelf premixed formula like "Trufuel") into the throttle body when starting up. (mind the sensors though)

General Maintenance

Engine

• Break-in: Change oil after first 1,000 miles.
• Check the engine air cleaner (filter) every oil change.  Hold it up to a strong light to see. When it gets dirty then replace it.
• Intake: Periodically, remove the intake ducting and look inside the throttle body. Check for free movement of the throttle plate. Clean out the inside and the MAF sensor when there's too much buildup.
• Spark plugs: Iridium plugs can last 60,000 miles, and some of the newer expensive ones can go even longer. Remove a few of them to inspect. Look for eroded electrodes (compare to a new one) and excess deposits. Check the gap. Replace if needed.
• Timing belts: for engines with rubber belts, replace them according to the instructions in your owner's manual
• Serpentine (accessory, drive...) belts: Replace when it starts to look aged and cracked. When the grooves wear out , the belt will begin to slip and make noise. Inexpensive groove depth checkers are available . While the belt is off, check all the pulleys
• Charging system: Periodically have your battery and alternator load tested. (battery dealers and parts stores usually offer this free courtesy service). Check the date on the battery. Lifetime varies about 5 to 8 years.
• Hoses: Heat and age will degrade rubber over time. Inspect all the hoses under the hood. Make sure the rubber is still supple, and not hardened, split, or cracked. Pay close attention to the ends where they are clamped. Loosen the clamp and slide it aside. If the ends look crumbled, frayed, or starting to seep then replace the hose.
• Radiator: Periodically look through the front grill to check the condition. Use a hose to wash out bugs and other debris that builds up on it.

General Maintenance

Chassis

• Driveline
  • Check condition and level of fluids (see 'fluids' section)
  • Make sure vents are clear
  • Drivshafts - front (4x4) and rear (2WD): Grease the universal joints. Check for play in pinions, yokes and center bearings.
  • Some driveshafts require grease on the slipyoke to prevent binding.
  • Inspect condition of CV shafts and boots.

• Brakes and wheel
  
  • Check the amount of brake pad material remaining every oil change and note it down
  • Make sure caliper pins are lubed and in good condition. Calipers move back forth smoothly
  • Check the amount of material on the brake rotors and look for hot spots.
  • Check the bearings. Rock the wheel at 12 and 6-oclock, and 3 and 9-oclock.
  • Look all around the tire, including the inside that you don't normally see. Look for any cracks, bulges or other abnormalities.
  • Rotate the tires roughly every 12,000 miles.

• Suspension
  • Bounce the car. It should settle quickly and not make noise.
  • Check shocks/struts for leaks.
  • Grab the shocks with your hands and shake them. They should sound and feel solid
  • Shake the steering linkage. There should be minimal movement
  • Put a crowbar or 2x4 under the knuckle or wheel and lift. Check for movement in the balljoints. Make sure grease boots are intact
  • Do the same for control arms. Visually inspect the rubberbushings for cracks and signs of degradation.
  • Grease zerk fittings, if installed

Service Resources

If you plan to maintain the vehicle yourself, you can purchase a vehicle specific repair manual (Chilton, Haynes, OEM factory service etc.) They provide useful information about your car model, and step by step instructions with pictures about the most common repairs and replacements. The wiring schematics are incredibly useful too. Your local public library may also have print and digital resources. Or you can subscribe to a digital service such as AllData.  It is well worth the money if you do all your own vehicle service.

You might consider purchasing a diagnostic scan tool. This will provide more information about faults if you get trouble lights on your instrument panel. Visit the diagnostic tool page for tips on purchasing a scan tool.

General Maintenance

Body

• Lamps: have a helper activate all the light switches while you walk all the way around the vehicle to inspect.
  headlights, high beams, running lights, turn signals, hazard lights, brake lights (low and high mounted), reverse lights, fog lights (if equipped). Replace hazed headlight lens.
• Weatherstrip: Inspect the gaskets around the door openings, hatches and trunks. Rubber shrinks and fatigues over time, and the gaskets will pull away and even fall off, causing rain leaks.
• Sunroof: test sunroof drains with a hose or jug of water to ensure proper drainage.
• Cowl: Ensure the cowl area below the windshield is clear of leaves and debris. Make sure water entering the cowl drains freely.
• Windshield: Check for damage. Consult your state law for allowable chips and cracks. Scrape off sap and other residues. Clean well for good rain shedding performance. Inspect and wipe off wiper blades . Replace if rubber has hardened or cracked. Verify good operation of all wiping speeds and contact area.
• Paint: Repair paint chips

• Body & Frame
  
  • Look for structurally unsound rust.
  • keep the underbody clean to make it last.

Videos

Advice from Scotty:

New cars:

Basic oil change and check-up. So easy your kids can do it.