Still on the 1998 Range Rover p38 with a v8 engine 4.6HSE and automatic transmission that I posted earlier.
Good afternoon, sir. Thank you once more for your response. I pulled out the ECM and checked there was actually lots of short to ground therein and also at bundle of wires particularly the one for the coil, few wires breached with each other which I corrected. In addition, I noticed that "there was no ignition current at all in the fuse box," but the dashboard lights were coming ON with key ON which is proper. The fuse box itself didn't transfer power to fuse 26 and 37 that were responsible for transferring current to the injector circuit with ignition switch turned to ON position. Hence I told the car owner that the fuse box too will require replacement. And when he purchased it from a store the was current there at the fuses but not to the injector circuit. I noticed that some pins in the fuse box that was powering fuses 26 and 37 were completely pulled out.
Also I noticed that instead of Fuse 26 to be powered with test light on ground it was rather powered with test light on battery positive. Please sir, help me out on what I can do next to fix the car problem permanently.
Full disclosure, I've never been under the hood of a Range Rover.
I just found it interesting that Fuse 26 was "proving out" to be a Ground with your test light and yet the fuse isn't blown.
(it's supposed to be providing battery voltage in KEY Positions ll and lll, right?)
So why would that be happening?
It looks like one way could be that the Ignition Relay is either faulty or not being energized by the BECM.
When the Ignition Relay is in its "at rest" position (not energized), it Grounds out FUSE 26.
So I "lit up" the diagram.
Red is Battery Voltage.
Green is Ground.
Blue can either be Battery Voltage or Ground depending on the position of the Ignition Relay.
Here is the Ignition Relay pictured in its "at rest" position Grounding out Fuse 26.
So you may want to troubleshoot the Ignition Relay socket. Make sure you have Power with the KEY in the ll or lll positions on Relay Sockets 1 & 5. Make sure the BECM is providing Ground to Relay Socket 2 in KEY Position ll & lll.
Then, depending what you find there, you may want to test the relay sockets of the ECM Relay (Main Relay). Failure of this relay will cause the ECM to not be switched on, resulting in absence of fuel and spark.
Thank you so much for your response to my greatest car challenge. As you rightly said I checked for ignition current with the car at ON position without cranking but I found non at that point. The only place that I have seen current is at two of the wires that is for the AC. I have not seen any ignition current at the fusebox, only DC and Ground current.
The current that later got to that fuse 26 and 37 was after an aftermarket fuse box was replaced with the man older fuse box.
I wish I could post a brief video that explains better what I'm saying!
My WhatsApp number is [personal info redacted] so that I can send you a brief video of what I noticed.
Please do not post personal contact information. No one here will contact you and you are opening yourself up to scammers. You can upload your video to youtube or a file sharing site and post the link here.
Well range rovers are electric rats nests. And that had so many problems me I wouldn't even try to fix it. Definitely the computer would be shot from wiring shorts you have to find all the wiring shorts reprogram the computer it would be a gigantic pain in the rear end. But if you're nuts about a vehicle like that hack I'd start making a basic I try to find out a way I could put a carburetor on the engine and bypass all the computer s***. But really trying to fix those electronics on that thing you're going to end up in a lunatic asylum.
Thank you so much sir for your prompt response. I really appreciate the information you've provided.
But I don't have any idea on how to convert to carburetor. Replacing the fuse box with a new one and a free code ECU that wouldn't require programming, can the problem be fixed?
Well anything could be fixed if you want to do enough work I found a guy in Rhode Island who bought one of those clunkers from his uncle for five grand and he figured out how to program the stuff himself some of the things don't work and check engine lights pop up all the time but at least you got the stupid thing running and he drove it around
Thank you so much sir for this information.
https://youtube.com/shorts/CASAzwoKILA?feature=share
That's the link 👆 to better explain what I was saying
Still on 1998 Range Rover p38 with a v8 engine and a crank no start no spark no injector pulse problem.
Thank you so much sir for your prompt response. I really appreciate the information you've provided.
But unfortunately I don't have any idea on how to convert to carburetor. With the bad fusebox in the man car which had no current getting to fuse 26 and 37 that was responsible for transferring power to one side of the injector circuit so that the ECU grounds/ pulse the other side. I noticed that there was no current getting to the above mentioned fuses 26 and 37.
But when I did some bypass in the fuse box from the relay pins that I believed current should get to which there was no current. After the bypass current got to that injector circuit but when I replaced with another fusebox that is not too good to my taste without any bypass or further repair done by me, there was current to those fuses but not in the way it should've. It was supposed to be DC and DC current rather than DC and Ground current.
Replacing both the fuse box with a new one and using a free code ECU that wouldn't require reprogramming, can the problem be fixed?
Please don't make multiple posts for the same problem(s). (Topics merged.)
Ok thank you so much for this information
Thank you so much for your response to my greatest car challenge. As you rightly said I checked for ignition current with the car at ON position without cranking but I found non at that point. The only place that I have seen current is at two of the wires that is for the AC. I have not seen any ignition current at the fusebox, only DC and Ground current. The current that later got to that fuse 26 and 37 was after an aftermarket fuse box was replaced with the man older fuse box. I wish I could post a brief video that explains better what I'm saying! My WhatsApp number is [personal info redacted] so that I can send you a brief video of what I noticed.
Please do not post personal contact information. No one here will contact you and you are opening yourself up to scammers. You can upload your video to youtube or a file sharing site and post the link here.
Thank you so much for this information. 👍 Let me try doing that now.