Hi everyone,
I have a 04 jeep grand Cherokee 4.0 that was throwing me a code p0351 p0352 p0353 for ignition coil circuits 1,2,3.
The issue at hand is my car will crank for a while and no start but if I keep trying it might eventually start and run ok. Once I press on the gas it starts shaking and stuttering then shuts off. Sometimes will start after a while sometimes won’t.
I changed the 3 front spark plugs and replaced the coil pack but no luck. Took it to a mechanic to find out what the problem could be but would anyone out there know what’s going on? possible short somewhere causing this or any thing else I may be missing? Any help would be amazing
I believe that engine uses a "wasted spark" ignition setup where each coil feeds two cylinders that are fired at the same time with one cylinder not making use of the spark. (The 3 coils are all mounted on a single coil rail bolted to the cylinder head.) So with A, B, and C circuits reporting problems that would affect all cylinders. It seems unlikely that all 3 coils would go bad at the same time so I'd look for a common cause that would affect them all. (It may be a wiring or ground problem.)
https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0351-code-ignition-coil-a-primary-secondary-circuit/
https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0352-code-ignition-coil-b-primary-secondary-circuit-malfunction/
https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0353-code-ignition-coil-c-primary-secondary-circuit/
You can find a repair manual for your vehicle at charm.li which may help:
https://charm.li/Jeep/2004/Grand%20Cherokee%204WD%20L6-4.0L%20VIN%20S/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/
@chucktobias got it ok thanks for this info! Do you have any recommendation or tips for where I should begin troubleshooting? Do I figure out the wiring or how can I narrow down the cause of trouble
Really it comes down to basic electrical troubleshooting. That thing is over 20 years old and there could be a wiring problem anywhere, but it would be something affecting all 3 coils. Make sure the ground cable between the engine block and chassis is OK.
@chucktobias got it ok I will double check that wire and make sure it’s good. I did replace the original cable that was on the engine block with one of those black battery cables but I will check to see if it’s still in good shape.
Also be sure to check the possible causes and troubleshooting information in the OBD2 code links above. Be aware that it is possible for a problem to exist with camshaft sensor synchronization (due to sensor or timing chain problems). That possibility is said to be rare but it is possible, and it is something that would affect operation of all 3 coils.
@chucktobias gottchu ok. I did replace the camshaft sensor and crank shaft sensor within the last year. Even if I didn’t get any codes I should replace them to see if the issue persists?
Hopefully you used OEM parts, or at least parts from the OEM supplier. Don't just throw parts at the problem, do a proper diagnosis.
@chucktobias for the crank shaft sensor I used the standard motor products brand and the camshaft sensor I went with Dorman.
The 4.0 really does not like aftermarket sensors. Those tend to either not work at all or fail early. However it makes no sense to load up the parts cannon. If those sensors are suspect troubleshooting should be done prior to replacement. You should be able to check their output in live data.
@chucktobias ahh got it ok. A lot of the forums and YouTube people recommended those companies so I went with them and they were working well. I wonder if they’re now failing. I used my blue driver scanner but it didn’t show me live data when dealing with those sensors. Hopefully the mechanic I sent it to is able to pull more info than me.
@chucktobias updating you here Chuck,
Just got my car back from the mechanic and it turns out the camshaft sensor was bad so it was replaced. Talked to the guy and said it’s very uncommon in this situation but it can happen and of course happens to me 😅 they installed a standard motor product sensor and she’s back to normal. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for letting us know! I had a feeling it was going to be one of those sensors but we always advise testing parts rather than just guessing and changing them.