Hello!
I have an 2007 Honda Pilot and my compressor clutch is not turning with the system on and I stuck a screw driver down to test for magnetic reaction and nothing. I live in AZ so the AC for sure is going to be running but I also tried to engage defrost just to see and nothing. My pressure is equal on high and low side at about outside temp which is like 110 and both have been static since last night, no change in pressure one vs another.
I tested the clutch relay and it is not bad, I swapped with another in the fuse box of the same kind and it did nothing and the relay worked in the other area so I know the relay isnt bad. It is a doozy getting to the compressor so I have not unclipped the wiring and tried to force the clutch open but given that there is power going to the relay and it was working two days ago AND the pressure is the same I ordered the clutch relay and core to swap out. I dont want to change the full compressor because I do not have the AC tank or pump for properly vacuuming and weighing plus given that both high and low are the same it did not fit the profile of having a leak. I also tried the low side with a screw driver at the schrader valve and there was pressure so I dont think it is a leak.
Is there anything else for me to try that could signal a fixable problem? My grill is clean its a garage car, both fans are running with the AC system turned on but the clutch does not move, it is not stuck I can move it by hand but no engagement. Ive spent tons of time researching, watching vids and testing but I was wondering if there is another search I might have missed and any suggestions.
Thank you!
Don't forget there's 2 fuses also involved.
In the engine compartment fuse box the 7.5 amp MG Clutch fuse for the load side of the relay and in the passenger compartment fuse box the 7.5 amp AC clutch relay (control side) fuse.
Since your fans work the passenger compartment fuse is probably good because it shares that circuit.
Just make sure the MG Clutch fuse is also good.
If you know how to jump the 2 "Load side" relay sockets you may want to try that and see if the clutch engages
Realize the AC clutch is not a permanent magnet it's an electromagnet so it's only really magnetic when it's operating. So unplug the wiring to the AC clutch and give it power and see if the clutching gauges if it doesn't the clutch is shot and you need a new compressor. On the other hand if it works then you have an electrical charge somewhere in the system or a bag sensor or it could be as simple as you're just low and refrigerant
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it! I know the computer is sending the signal because I can move around the clutch relay and I get the sound of electrical shocking so I know it isnt on the computer side. Ive not found any directions on the many videos Ive watched about how to diagnose a sensor, maybe it is impossible? I tried to add some refrigerant as I have in the past and I connect to the low side as always and the connector will not seat on, the slide on connector does not seat, it pops off and I tried it with two different connectors in case one had a bad oring inside or something, both kicked off. I do have pressure in the system as I tested with a screw driver and using the pressure gauges with the car off and on, both high and low sides are reading the ambient outside temp.
What would be the reason the low side would not accept the refrigerant line? I could only push forced it on and I know that is not correct, it should clip on seat easily.
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it! I know the computer is sending the signal because I can move around the clutch relay and I get the sound of electrical shocking so I know it isnt on the computer side. Ive not found any directions on the many videos Ive watched about how to diagnose a sensor, maybe it is impossible? I tried to add some refrigerant as I have in the past and I connect to the low side as always and the connector will not seat on, the slide on connector does not seat, it pops off and I tried it with two different connectors in case one had a bad oring inside or something, both kicked off. I do have pressure in the system as I tested with a screw driver and using the pressure gauges with the car off and on, both high and low sides are reading the ambient outside temp.
What would be the reason the low side would not accept the refrigerant line? I could only push forced it on and I know that is not correct, it should clip on seat easily.
jack,
Thank you for the reply and yep I tested that one too it looked unbroken and clean without issue. The small 7.5 amp fuse, I guess I could still try to swap it but if it looks good without any issues Ive never found those to go bad, if they are bad its easy to see if not then they are good...
Ive read that trying the jumper on the clutch relay on a newer car is not advisable, that it can fry the computer so while I watched HOW to do it I decided against it.
Where my compressor is located its a bugger to get to that connector but I think I am going to do that today, get under and try to access that connector after disassembling several things in this 115 degree summer we have going.
Well don't do anything you aren't comfortable with
.
Every time the computer energizes the relay coil (control side) the result is that the load side sockets of the relay are "jumped" by the internal contact on a completely different circuit. Yours doesn't even share the same fuse for the 2 circuits
.
The only way you could damage the computer is if you mistakenly jumped the load side with the control side
.
I found the high side sensor and tested it for continuity and it does have that, I am not 100% sure where the low side is but when I unplugged the high side sensor the fans did not turn on when the car was on, so after I tested for continuity I plugged the sensor back in and the fans worked so I have to feel confident that with good odds both sensors are working right or when the AC was turned on the fans would NOT be engaged if both the low and high side sensors were not working properly.
Just to be sure I also swapped out the 7.5 with a spare in the fuse box and no it was not the issue. So either I am low on refrigerant and the clutch will not engage or the clutch is bad, thats what it seems to me. If I were low would I get strong pressure when I tested the low side schrader valve? I guess the only way to know is to have it evacuated and weighed which I am also avoiding.
Right before the problem started I was driving and there was an odd smell not smoke or any engine issue but an odd smell that lasted a few minutes then was gone. I actually thought it might be freon leak but I know I am not low or it would have shown in my pressure test, both were ambient temp pressure so I dont think I am out.
One more thing I have not recently added any refrigerant, it has been over six months without any issues but Ive had issues on and off for a few years and I can tell when the cooling is slowing that I am low so I add a bit until the pressure reader on the cheap can setup balances with the outside temp.